I ran across this link today while doing a little research on "things to do while your engine is out".
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_a_cutlass
Tackling the Cutlass Bearing
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Re: Tackling the Cutlass Bearing
Forrest Paddock
Houston, TX
Supporting this site through membership in the CDSOA, Inc. Member 420
Houston, TX
Supporting this site through membership in the CDSOA, Inc. Member 420
- barfwinkle
- Posts: 2169
- Joined: Feb 6th, '05, 10:34
- Location: S/V Rhapsody CD25D
Re: Tackling the Cutlass Bearing
Finally! This came in the "mail" today.
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Bill Member #250.
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- Posts: 240
- Joined: Aug 2nd, '12, 20:00
- Location: CHASSEUR Cape Dory 28, DAKOTA LEE Cape Dory 30B
Re: Tackling the Cutlass Bearing
I certainly recommend cutting the bronze shaft off if the plan is to replace the shaft anyway. I also replaced the shaft flange based upon the recommendation of the shop....
Reference the set screws. When I did the cutlass bearing on CHASSEUR, in 2012, I noted that the two set screws had corroded to the point that they no longer crimped the bearing itself. Despite this the bearing itself was sufficiently tight that no rotational play was obvious. Rather than putting in new screws I elected to press in the bearing using a bit of West to coat the bearing and to seal it in. My thoughts were that it did not appear that there was a lot of rotational force (two screw tips barely dimpling the bearing sheath) and that using epoxy to set the bearing was more secure that just using two screws. I also felt that future replacement would not be adversely effected so long as I cut out the bearing as I had done previously.
Given the experimental aspect of this effort, I carefully inspected the bearing after pulling CHASSEUR last fall and it appears to be firmly in place. Are there any disadvantages of this approach that anyone is aware of?
V/r
Pete
Reference the set screws. When I did the cutlass bearing on CHASSEUR, in 2012, I noted that the two set screws had corroded to the point that they no longer crimped the bearing itself. Despite this the bearing itself was sufficiently tight that no rotational play was obvious. Rather than putting in new screws I elected to press in the bearing using a bit of West to coat the bearing and to seal it in. My thoughts were that it did not appear that there was a lot of rotational force (two screw tips barely dimpling the bearing sheath) and that using epoxy to set the bearing was more secure that just using two screws. I also felt that future replacement would not be adversely effected so long as I cut out the bearing as I had done previously.
Given the experimental aspect of this effort, I carefully inspected the bearing after pulling CHASSEUR last fall and it appears to be firmly in place. Are there any disadvantages of this approach that anyone is aware of?
V/r
Pete
- JWSutcliffe
- Posts: 301
- Joined: Jul 29th, '08, 22:41
- Location: CD 31 Oryx, hull #55, based in Branford CT
Re: Tackling the Cutlass Bearing
Pete:
I came to the same conclusion when I replaced the bearing 3 seasons ago. The fiberglass stern tube on the 31 does not afford enough wall thickness or strength to tighten the set screws much anyway; I reinstalled new set screws, but also pretty much relied on the press fit of the bearing. In 2 seasons of moderate engine us I have seen no evidence of bearing movement.
I came to the same conclusion when I replaced the bearing 3 seasons ago. The fiberglass stern tube on the 31 does not afford enough wall thickness or strength to tighten the set screws much anyway; I reinstalled new set screws, but also pretty much relied on the press fit of the bearing. In 2 seasons of moderate engine us I have seen no evidence of bearing movement.
Skip Sutcliffe
CD31 Oryx
CD31 Oryx
-
- Posts: 240
- Joined: Aug 2nd, '12, 20:00
- Location: CHASSEUR Cape Dory 28, DAKOTA LEE Cape Dory 30B
Re: Tackling the Cutlass Bearing
Skip
That is a very good point about the fiberglass tube. I understand that some other boats use a metal tube which would add a bit of rotational stability in terms of supporting set screws. I was talking to another sailboat owner in the Marina over the weekend (has a Alberg designed boat also) and he couldn’t believe that the shaft log was not bronze or some other metal.
V/r
Pete
That is a very good point about the fiberglass tube. I understand that some other boats use a metal tube which would add a bit of rotational stability in terms of supporting set screws. I was talking to another sailboat owner in the Marina over the weekend (has a Alberg designed boat also) and he couldn’t believe that the shaft log was not bronze or some other metal.
V/r
Pete
- barfwinkle
- Posts: 2169
- Joined: Feb 6th, '05, 10:34
- Location: S/V Rhapsody CD25D
Re: Tackling the Cutlass Bearing
GE to all.
Well the deed is done (except for polishing up). See more at http://www.rhapsodysails.com/wp
Fair Winds
Well the deed is done (except for polishing up). See more at http://www.rhapsodysails.com/wp
Fair Winds
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Bill Member #250.