Markst95 -
Thanks for the response. I'll give that a try and let you know how it goes.
Regards,
Rich
Replacing Typhoon Seacocks
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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rlhigginsjr
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Mar 23rd, '14, 11:26
- Location: Little Wing '73 CD Typhoon Weekender
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tjr818
- Posts: 1851
- Joined: Oct 13th, '07, 13:42
- Location: Previously owned 1980 CD 27 Slainte, Hull #185. NO.1257949
Re: Replacing Typhoon Seacocks
You can always try heat. After heat I would try PB Blaster and a pair of Big wrenches.
Good luck. I am still trying to remove the engine zinc on Sláinte, a 20mm square fitting that will not budge, even after heat and PB blaster. I wonder when was the last time the PO changed it
My next step is to hand fabricate a wrench/prybar out of 1x1X1/4 angle stock. I'll be drilling and filing for the next several days.
Good luck. I am still trying to remove the engine zinc on Sláinte, a 20mm square fitting that will not budge, even after heat and PB blaster. I wonder when was the last time the PO changed it
My next step is to hand fabricate a wrench/prybar out of 1x1X1/4 angle stock. I'll be drilling and filing for the next several days.
Tim
Nonsuch 26 Ultra,
Previously, Sláinte a CD27
Nonsuch 26 Ultra,
Previously, Sláinte a CD27
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Maine_Buzzard
- Posts: 506
- Joined: Dec 22nd, '10, 21:15
- Location: Feet Dry, Olympia, WA
Re: Replacing Typhoon Seacocks
Sawzall the base of the seacock off, if you can get at it. Then take the Sawzall and cut the through hull threads in half (two cuts from inside the hole of the cut off seacock.
You should then be able to spin the through hull out, or twist the seacock base out if the bolts are not held in by the head of the through hull...
Go slow if you have to grind the head off from the outside- a thin cutoff blade to slice away at the pieces would be better to remove it with. Quench often.
Cockpit seacocks will be perfect and brand new if you always leave them closed!! Just kidding. I have to admit, I leave my cockpit seacocks open all the time too.
It was more a thought that you if you had only hoses from the scupper to the through hull, you have no way to close them off without a plug or something.
Go Sawzall!
You should then be able to spin the through hull out, or twist the seacock base out if the bolts are not held in by the head of the through hull...
Go slow if you have to grind the head off from the outside- a thin cutoff blade to slice away at the pieces would be better to remove it with. Quench often.
Cockpit seacocks will be perfect and brand new if you always leave them closed!! Just kidding. I have to admit, I leave my cockpit seacocks open all the time too.
It was more a thought that you if you had only hoses from the scupper to the through hull, you have no way to close them off without a plug or something.
Go Sawzall!
Re: Replacing Typhoon Seacocks
This is a great thread. I went ahead and did my annual maintenance check on mine last weekend and wrote it up here http://bristol-blue.blogspot.com/2014/0 ... d-brr.html Let me know if I left any steps out.
Sincerely,
Chris B.
http://bristol-blue.blogspot.com/
"It is the Average Sailor, the one who will never set any records or win any major trophies, who really populates the sailing world." Ray Whitaker
"Never tell a young person that something cannot be done. God may have waited for centuries for someone ignorant enough of the impossible to do that very thing."- John Andrew Holmes
Chris B.
http://bristol-blue.blogspot.com/
"It is the Average Sailor, the one who will never set any records or win any major trophies, who really populates the sailing world." Ray Whitaker
"Never tell a young person that something cannot be done. God may have waited for centuries for someone ignorant enough of the impossible to do that very thing."- John Andrew Holmes
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rlhigginsjr
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Mar 23rd, '14, 11:26
- Location: Little Wing '73 CD Typhoon Weekender
Re: Replacing Typhoon Seacocks
Success after 3 hours using a pipe wrench to loosen the retaining nuts and poke enough of the thru-hulsl out the other side to apply a sawz-all.
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Re: Replacing Typhoon Seacocks
I also had to cut out one of my two thru-hulls. However, after a month of trying to get the right parts from Defender (the full-sized seacocks did not work as anyone who had taken this project would have known), the new seacocks are in. Everything is working well, my only issue is the hose clamps. On the bottom at the ball valve, I was able to double-clamp the hose with no issue. However, with the top, I am able to get the top clamp on, but not the lower clamp. It just slips off the bottom of the scupper. Any thoughts?