Solar Charger - Mounting Location / Wiring / Type?

[Sea Hunt Video]

Duncan

I use this system aboard Rhapsody and #1 I love it and #2 it keeps the batteries fully charged.

<a target="blank" href="http://www.emarineinc.com/products/10W- ... html">Nice 10W System</a>

I don't have much of a amp draw aboard and since installing the panel I have not had any issues. I have a Group 27 and 24 batteries aboard.



If you haven't already seen it <a target="blank" href="http://www.capedory.org/board/viewtopic ... ght=">This link</a> is to a similar thread from several years back with good information in it as well.

Go for it you won't regret it. Fair WInds

Bill and all:

I am thinking about what I will need on my Cape Dory 25D when she is in South Florida. She currently has two Group 27 deep cycle batteries that are several years old but still in good condition.

I like the idea of the "Nice 10W System" that Bill uses and recommends. I think it would work well for me in the South Florida sun but I know even less about batteries, solar panels, etc. than I do about sailing.

Does anyone else have experience or anecdotal information on this system Are there any other smaller-type solar panels that you would recommend As Bill said about S/V Rhapsody I do not anticipate a lot of amperage draw on my CD 25D (only bilge pump, lights, occasional use of Raymarine Autohelm ST 2000, etc.)

Thanks,

[mattlydon]

I have a 65watt panel that JUST fits into the portside cockpit locker on my CD28. When I'm leaving the boat (and ~remember~ ), I pull it out and lay it across the cockpit seats. I put some stick-on rubber feet on the back corners to keep it from sliding around (will probably replace with some wood blocks protruding downwards an inch or so).

I don't worry about shadows, etc.

I find on a given day, this time of year, I can stuff 25+ amps into the battery on a single day.

I have a sunsaver duo charge controller with the meter, which is very nice to tell me current battery level, total charge performed, etc.

I originally had the panel mounted on my stern rail, but would MUCH rather have it out of the way completely when using the boat.

Matt

[Brian2]

I just added a solar panel to our CD 28. The panel was purchased from eMarinesystems in FL and shipped to Maine. I uses a 10A digital controller. A 50w/3A panel was $207. It is 25.5" x 26.5" and fit nicely over the forehatch. I built a wood frame. After reading Charlie Wing's boat electrical book, I realized the benefit of being able to tilt the panels is minimal, and a horizontal locattion is best, easiest, and cheapest. I get full output between 10 AM and 3 PM or longer, and high output in the less than optimum angle hours, which is way more than I need, so I am happy. Sailing I do get some shading from the genny depending on tack, but the panel more than keeps up with my electronics (chartplotter, VHF, depth, wind). At anchor or mooring, the shading from the forestay is negligible. There is less output when the hatch is open due to the angle and which way the boat is swinging.

[Sea Hunt Video]

I was thinking more about a "roll up" or "fold up" solar charger with around 10-14w output. Given what I expect to be low amp usage I would probably use the solar charger as a "trickle charge" (I think that is the right term) primarily to keep batteries fully charged while my CD 25D is on her mooring. I would store it below while sailing.

I checked Defender's catalog. They sell a brand called Powerfilm that has both "roll up" and "fold up" solar charges.

http://www.powerfilmsolar.com/rollable- ... argers.php

Does anyone have any experience or anecdotal information about Powerfilm solar chargers:?: The website says they are "waterproof".

Is there a particular "roll up" or "fold up" solar charger that you have used that you really like or dislike

Thanks in advance for any and all information, suggestions, etc.

[Brian2]

From what I read/researched, roll up panels are the least efficient, and constant trickle charging isn't good for the battery. Ganz makes some small, flat, walk on -able panels with grommets in each corner. They are much $ for the convenience.

Be sure to do an internet search for whichever panel you like, as I found the prices ranged tremendously for the same panel. And, as I said, I went this panel:

http://www.emarineinc.com/products/50W- ... FRAME.html

[Maine Sail]

Roll up panels have a very limited output compared to a mono or polycrystalline panel and many of them are as much as 50% less per sq in of output than a mono or polycrystalline panel. You pay a lot for the "roll up" features and get little amperage benefit.

Rigid panels are more of a PITA but you get the longest life and most bang for the buck. If you get into bigger panels you can use the excess voltage and use an MPPT controller and get even more than the rated output, in amps, from the panel.

Just installed a 210 watt 24V Kyocera on a 53 foot cutter with a 12/24 volt Blue Sky 1524iX MPPT controller feeding 900 Ah's of Lifeline batteries and the thing pumps out nearly 12 amps in peak sun. Oh and this is basically a trickle charge for that bank only meant for keeping the banks up at the mooring..... That panel BTW is nearly as big as my inflatable....

[trapper]

When I got my CD22 she had a roll up solar panel. She had been sitting at the dock with no one aboard for 3 years. Her portlights and hatch leaked. Her bilge pump powered by her battery charged by the roll up panel kept her afloat all that time.

For a while the roll up panels were hard to find. I did not know you could get them again until I saw Sea Hunt's post. When I sold the 22 and got the 25D I purchased a hard panel. It lasted a week. Three of us on board getting the boat ready to go out and the solar panel was stepped on before I had a chance to stow it. I found a "new" old stock roll up on ebay and bought it shortly aftre the hard panel broke.

The hard panels are probably better for a big boat where they can be permanently mounted out of the way. But for small boats, the roll ups are great.

On my 25D, I hang it on the lifeline or tie it to the handrail and stow it in the port locker when underway. On the 22, the battery was under the companionway so the panel was stowed next to the battery when underway and tied to the handrail when moored.

[barfwinkle]

GA to All

In 2011 Chris Kreitlein wrote:

I just finished this project so I can't say how well it works,

Chris how is this design working out for you and how heavy is it?

fair winds & TIA

[Andy Denmark]

Bill,

After designing a system for a client and seeing that it worked well over their 4-year cruise, I decided to copycat it on Rhiannon. I'm a systems guy and these components are selected because they work well together with maximum efficiency and minimum maintenance. The contrast is that buying a bunch of "parts" for bargain basement prices and stringing them together might technically work they are far from performing like an optimized A-to-Z system. Function over price generally proves to be a better long-term philosophy and cost-benefit ratio in the long run.

My goal was to separate the boat from needing shore power for anything but emergencies. Boats like my client's vessel mentioned above, live on a mooring and have no choice but to be self- sustaining, power wise. I think the modern-day escapists call this "off the grid." Since I already have a 110 VAC shore power system onboard I decided to keep it intact, the only modification being to disconnect it by putting heavy battery teminal clamps on the output side that I can hook up directly to the batteries if there's ever a reason; redundancy of a sort, I guess, but I've never used it since going solar.

So, here are the components:

Kyocera KC-80 panel - 80 watt output: (This is the modern equivalent model designation for the same panel I'm using)

Flexcharge PV7-D controller: not an MPPT but has a unique algorithym that works very well for this useage. Controller easily handles the output of this panel without need for blocking diodes

2 Trojan SCS 150 (Group 24) deep cycle batteries. If I had had more room I would have used SCS-200's (Group 27) batteries like my client's system that I mentioned.

A simple inverted U-shaped stainless steel frame mounted on the stern pulpit w/ panel at boom height and pivoting 180 degrees on an athwrtships axis w/ simple friction locks (West)

All wiring is #10 ALCOR, all connections are soldered (no crimps, inline connectors, or screw terminals)

Under sail the panel is oriented horizontally and still has good output, low windage, and few interfering shadows. When possible I orient the panel perpendicular to the sun. Batteries stay hot (13.5+ V) all the time, the biggest drains being ST-2000 autopilot, 100 watt ham rig, nav & comm electronics (primarily VHF, depth & GPS) and lighting. Frig O Boat reefer going in when I can finally get to hi-grade icebox insulation and this setup should be able to easily handle this low-amperage unit.

Costs, new, for the above components were slightly over $1,000. Only maintenance is to check electrolyte levels every couple of months & top up. Once the SS mounting frame is on hand the rest of the installation can be easily completed in an afternoon.

[moctrams]

I installed two 100 watt solar panels above my Bimini along with four (4) Exide AGM batteries, 2 in Bank 1 in Stbd. Cockpit locker and 2 in Bank 2 up in the V-berth. The Morningstar solar controller is mounted in the Stbd. Cockpit locker. When I go cruising on the Chesapeake for a couple of weeks at a time the batteries remain charged to 100% even with the Adler Barbour fridge running all the time. The only time I run the engine for charging is to run the inverter when I make coffee in the morning. Total cost of project was $1270 for material. I installed the parts and had spare marine wiring and cables.

[joemerchant]

We purchased 400 Watts of mixed semi flexible and hard panels from Renogy. https://www.renogy-store.com/default.asp

They are very helpful in coming up with a solution that works best for your boat and power requirements.

When cruising, you should not compromise the things you enjoy on land which can be brought to the boat. Buy as much as you can afford to power the things you can afford to put on board.

The flex panels are great in that they are really durable and can even be walked on, and priced very well for quality panels from a US Company.

[joemerchant]

Without getting into all the specifics, there are plenty of great articles that explain everything in detail. There are three stages of charging your batteries that a lot of people don't take into account (I didn't until we had a solution crafted for us that should make the batteries last years longer). Bulk - where 80% of the battery can be charged in a short time. Absorption - the dreaded stage where simply said, it takes a lot of time and energy to get that last 20% of charge, and float - keeping the battery at full charge.

When deciding on the most efficient solution for you, keep that as well as your power requirements in mind. Not just how many AH you use in a day, but what is the most efficient way to use it.

We calculated that still running the engine for a short time each day will quickly bulk the batteries up to what we lost during the night (even running the small A/C on inverter) with the 100 amp Balmar. That is really long enough to get the anchor up and on our way. That short run is also long enough to heat some water up. The solar will power the long absorption while still keeping the water maker and fridge compressor going once the sun comes up and plenty left over to power the electronics. That means we still always end the day with the batteries at float stage as opposed to never getting past absorption and killing the batteries faster.

So, in the past, typical cruising was running the engine long enough to get safely out of the anchorage and the sails up, but that never fully charged the batteries, so even a small panel to get through the absorption stage will add life to the batteries and save fuel as you make the best use of the engine time keeping it as short as possible as it makes no difference how big your alternator is at that point.

[barfwinkle]

A simple inverted U-shaped stainless steel frame mounted on the stern pulpit w/ panel at boom height and pivoting 180 degrees on an athwrtships axis w/ simple friction locks (West)

Good Morning.

Andy I assume that your inverted "U" looked like this mockup (see Pic). Did you feel the need for any bracing coming off of the uprights back to the pushpit or the deck?

Also, Andy the current Kyocera 85W panel is 26.3 wide. My mockup is 36" above the pushpit (approx boom height) do you think that will clear the backstay with the panel centered on the crossmember? Kyocera no longer makes the 85W Panel (according to Northern Arizona Wind & Sun). I'm thinking about using a 110W, but it'll need to be another brand.

BTW, last week I had settled on John Daninic's setup and was going with to 50 watt panels. However, I awoke at 0400 the next morning and said to my self: "self you can't do that because when Rhapsody's sun shade is up it'll cover the panels"! Move on to plan B!

[NateHanson]

On smaller boats, the stern rail is a great place to mount a solar panel. I put a 45 (?) watt panel (and a charge regulator) on the pushpit of my previous 26-footer, hinged, so that it could be angled to catch the rays, and it worked great. Draws on that boat were higher than our current boat, primarily because of a frequently used tiller pilot. The panel also kept the batteries topped off through the winter, under the shrinkwrap cover.

On my 22, however, we have so few draws, that I make do just fine with the small output from my outboard, to keep the batteries topped off. We only do weekend cruising, but we haven't had any problems. The op might consider whether a large (expensive) panel is really necessary for his modest needs. How often does the engine tend to run? And could LED replacements make the difference? I'd tend to avoid a solution if you can get by. That said, if you need a charging solution, I had a great experience putting a big rigid panel on the pushpit rail. Out of the way, and it held up very well.

[Andy Denmark]

Bill,

You've got the right concept with this. I'm trying to get pix now of my setup -- boat is 3,500 miles from here but I'll post them when they arrive via email.

Meanwhile, here's my stern rail setup before this addition. Several considerations here other than the obvious ones:

(1) Keep the stern ladder useful. This means panel needs to be high enough to pass under.

(2) Keep the forward edge of the panel at least a foot from the backstay since it's the antenna for the ham rig.

(3) If possible, use the arch support bracing for handholds when using the ladder.

I achieved all of these with my setup.


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