Seacock replacement - brand / model recommendations?

[Kickin Bears]

A few more pics of through hull, seacock, and backing block removed. One down ...

[Jim Walsh]

Nice job. Keeping your seacocks in good working order is one of those maintainence items on which your life could depend.

[fmueller]

Kicking,

We moved the raw water intake on my 27 to the top of the keel/bilge space. The original intake was not a Spartan (it was an unidentified valve with no mounting block) and was tucked into a spot on the engine pan apron right next to the engine beds where there was not going to be enough footprint for a proper mounting block ... so we opted to relocate.

We also did not refit that same domed strainer over the ocean side of the intake which, on my boat, filled up with little mussels every year. We DID add a proper seawater strainer which Jerezana did not have when I bought the boat.

Fred

The straight nipple was replaced by a 90 degree bend - (not sure why one of the flange bolts is not snugged in this shot) - this has turned out to be a more convenient spot than I originally thought - because I always check my bilge before taking off - which means I always visually check the position of the intake valve, which I "usually" close when I leave the boat. The one seacock I always close like religion is the head intake valve. I don't trust the flap valves and pump seals in the Jabsco toilets manual pump, which is all that's between your boat and Davey Jones if that seacock is left open. I'm rarely on water where it's legal to dump - so the 1 1/2" waste water valve is always closed. I have to remember to exercise it occasionally.

[John Stone]

Nice work Fred. Good clean installation. Very professional.

[Kickin Bears]

Thx for the pic Fred. I’m trying to relate where that is at in relation to the CD30C (?). We close the head raw water intake as well for same reason.

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Some pics of the galley sink through hull coming out. I picked up a 1.5” flat bar to give it a go as compared to the spud wrench I bought. It wasn’t about the money here, but learning / trying a different technique. I twisted the flat bar and the through hull wouldn’t budge. The spud wrench got it in the end.

This one took a lot more force. Multiple rounds of putting everything I had in with nothing gained. Finally, after some contemplation if a grinder would be better, it just gave in and started twisting out

The galley sink plumbing was so bad that I put my thumb through the drain piping. The sink retaining / compression fittings were so corroded on I had to hack saw off the drains. I tried multiple rounds of PB Blaster but it’s essentially welded on now

Question: Any issue with using plastic fittings for the drain instead of copper? Anyone know ABYC standard in this example off too of head?. Thinking won’t corrode, easier to maintain/ service / install, and likely cheaper

[Kickin Bears]

Picture of the flat bar below as well. You can see what I mean by “twisted the flat bar”

The block was as bad as the engine rraw water intake through hull block. Definitely needed to go

[John Stone]

Picture of the flat bar below as well. You can see what I mean by “twisted the flat bar”

The block was as bad as the engine rraw water intake through hull block. Definitely needed to go

Yeah, my steel bar twisted a bit too, but all the through hulls came out. It never hurt (if you’re careful anyway) to apply a little heat to the through hull. I would not use a propane torch (Rule #1: Do no harm) but just a heat gun. Does not take a lot of heat and remember it will suddenly heat up so go slow. It should not get so hot you can’t touch it. Apply a little heat then try turning etc.

No one way to do it. What works works and what does not does not. The right tool always make the job easier. But you can get carried away and start hemorrhaging greenbacks if you’re not careful.

Anyway, good job.

[John Stone]

Question: Any issue with using plastic fittings for the drain instead of copper? Anyone know ABYC standard in this example off too of head?. Thinking won’t corrode, easier to maintain/ service / install, and likely cheaper

I have a plastic (actually it is a kind of reinforced nylon plastic) tail piece in the reinforced plastic drain in the SS sink in the FR. I thought long and hard about it. But, the tail piece is about 18” above the waterline. So I think that’s key...at least for me. And I opted for a single vice double sink which can be harder to source appropriate materials for than for a single sink. I also close the seacock to the sink drain when the boat is in the water unattended.

You might get some different opinions on this one.

[Kickin Bears]

Sink drain is in that range above the waterline on ours too. We also always close the seacock on the galley drain when not in use.

Just to be clear on reinstall, was thinking plumbing would go ss sink >> ss drain >> plastic p-trap/t-fitting (dual sink) >> to hose >> seacock /through hull

Seems like plastic would be better as there’s no metal to corrode. What is the risk?

[John Stone]

I don’t use a p trap on the sink drain for direct overboard discharge. All the ones I have seen are too flimsy plus you are not draining into a sewer system. I do have one on the head sink because it drains into the grey water tank. So I don’t want grey water tank smell coming back through the head drain. Plus the p trap takes up valuable storage room below the sink.

I just don’t think it’s necessary or warranted and adds unnecessary complication to a system that leads to a hole in your boat.

[Kickin Bears]

@John ... makes sense to me. I’m sold on the no p-trap

[Jim Walsh]

My original copper sink drains were still in fine shape. I gave them the “tap” test with a breaker bar that was handy. While I was adding refrigeration I was very interested in replacing anything I found questionable from the sinks to the new throughhull and ball valve assembly. Not only did I give every inch the tap test I also gave it the yank test to be certain it was ready for another 35 years of service. I replaced the drain hose as the old one had to be cut off to remove it.

[jbenagh]

I replaced everything when I did the seacock repair. I found a bar sink at Lowes that matched the original parts.
I also replaced the faucet as I got tired of repairing the o ring every two years.
I used no plastic and no trap.
Jeff

[John Stone]

My original copper sink drains were still in fine shape. I gave them the “tap” test with a breaker bar that was handy. While I was adding refrigeration I was very interested in replacing anything I found questionable from the sinks to the new throughhull and ball valve assembly. Not only did I give every inch the tap test I also gave it the yank test to be certain it was ready for another 35 years of service. I replaced the drain hose as the old one had to be cut off to remove it.

Nice work Jim. Copper pipe...Excellent! I wouldn’t mind some of that. I don’t think a SS drain basket and tail pipe is essential. If you have water there it’s probably back flooding when you are heeled. That’s not to say I would have rejected it if I could have found one.

[fmueller]

Here's a more inclusive shot of the mod to the cabin sole so I could put my AGMs there right on top of the keel ballast - you can just spot the cooling intake down below the original aft hatch. Aft is to the left.. I should post a shot of how it looks now all wired up. The bilge pump is at the bottom of a bent stainless bar (think of a tall "Z") and just jams in place under the sole. You just push down on the exposed tab and it pops back out of the hatch and you can lift the pump out. Works great, never moves.

On the subject of valves - I'm thinking now that next winter I might want to keep my boat in the water. It's surprising how many days we have on Narragansett where I could be out on the water in the winter months. For me that's 40ish (and I'm really fine). But I'd want to have an easy setup where I could suck antifreeze thru the cooling water side of the little Beta 14 without fuss. Groco makes a valve series (SBV) that allows for that but the smallest size is 1 1/4". I'm thinking about that now because if I want to do it, the time to change out the valve, or put in some kind of y valve is this winter while the boat is on the hard. I'm wondering if anyone reading has done this already ?

One thing for certain, when there is a risk of freezing, you've really got to be sure you close valves, especially the cooling water valve if you've got a strainer. ... I think John made that point pretty emphatically in another thread.