Traveler Blues

[mashenden]

In case anyone is a softy, here is a link to the Rover's photo gallery. I'm sure it will roll off over time but at this time there are some pictures of our event (you have to scroll down a bit to get past the advertisements)...

https://www.americanrover.com/photos/#

[mashenden]

I am leaning toward a Garhauer/Nicro-FICO solution to get much better functionality than the original design, but not spend as much as a complete traveller system replacement.

Garhauer MT-2 control ends - the Offset model w 3 pulleys
Garhauer pulleys to attach to the FICO car - double blocks with becket




Overall cost should be about $270, as compared to $700 for a MT-2-CT-TP.

Other than a bit more friction in regards to moving the traveler car as compared to a new system (but much less as compared to the old system), it seems worth it to me - I'll be able to afford to replace the main block as well. I suspect upgrading the existing system will be easier than removing and installing a complete system.

Am I missing a stumbling point?

[Northoceanbeach]

I was thinking about eliminating the traveller on my cape dory 28. How bad of an idea do you guys think this would be? Do you think I would regret it? I'm not trying to steal your thread, I was going to create a new one and saw yours.


How important are they for mainsheet sail trim and unwind performance? Downwind? I was think of putting a bid Schaefe, what are they called, like a u block, a really strong arch looking block in the center and attaching a beefy 6:1 mainsheet system to this.

Right now I think my mainsheet traveller looks like a really week point. The traveller track won't accept other cars and the car they have has a really dinky looking hook to accept the harken mainsheet cam block.

[Northoceanbeach]

I was thinking about eliminating the traveller on my cape dory 28. How bad of an idea do you guys think this would be? Do you think I would regret it? I'm not trying to steal your thread, I was going to create a new one and saw yours.


How important are they for mainsheet sail trim and unwind performance? Downwind? I was think of putting a bid Schaefe, what are they called, like a u block, a really strong arch looking block in the center and attaching a beefy 6:1 mainsheet system to this.

Right now I think my mainsheet traveller looks like a really week point. The traveller track won't accept other cars and the car they have has a really dinky looking hook to accept the harken mainsheet cam block.

[mashenden]

Update - Just in time for Christmas...

When what to my wondering eyes did appear,
____but a package on my doorstep from Garhauer.

Instead of going with my initial vision of an offset design that bolted to the track, Guido talked me into a track mounted version. I have not yet installed the parts, but I think it looks like a perfect solution.

The quality is 2nd to none... even the box and packaging it all came in was of better quality than anything I have seen in a while. No less than eight 3" metal staples keeping the box closed .

I'm telling you, nothing better for the price ($201.00) is possible. Well worth the wait.

Thank you, St Guido

[mashenden]

The finished product...


I am very happy with the results. I am definitely glad I decided to add control ends and blocks to my existing traveler car rather than doing a full traveler replacement. Much cheaper, and does exactly what I envisioned.

Clearly it's time to start working on the teak!!

[Keith]

Hi Matt,

What are the two sets of wheels? It looks like you drilled through the track and mounted them as stops. I am thinking of a similar mod an my CD30 but have two concerns that I would like your opinion on. 1) did the height of the three stacks impair your vision forward? 2) Is there a better solution for the flimsy loop that the block attaches to on the car?

Looking forward to your response.

Keith

[mashenden]

Hi Matt,

What are the two sets of wheels? It looks like you drilled through the track and mounted them as stops. I am thinking of a similar mod an my CD30 but have two concerns that I would like your opinion on. 1) did the height of the three stacks impair your vision forward? 2) Is there a better solution for the flimsy loop that the block attaches to on the car?

Looking forward to your response.

Keith

That is correct - the black round items below the control ends are rubber stops. You can see them better in the picture that I posted above on 12/21. An uncontrolled jibe caused the old traveler to blow off one end, so this seemed like a good improvement. Who knows, I may sail and have Margarita happy hour again one day

The additional height is negligible as it relates to visibility. That said, some have kidded me about overkill on going with 3, so you could reduce this by going with 2 instead. Also should shave some cost off.

Pls don't take this as defensive, but I am not following the concern on the car. Nothing is flimsy in this design - Garhauer's quality is superb. Can you better explain what you are seeing?

[John Ring]

I like the curved traveler, so I bent some Ronstan track to match in a press. Then I gave Ronstan's double traveler car a whack with the press to match, rolls fine.

The bolt pattern was different, so I used a 7/8" hole saw to open some access new holes along the bottom of the old aluminum box beam so I could secure the nuts while I bolted the new track to the old curved box beam. This solution matches the original look with added strength, but you could easily add a pulley system to this if you want.

It was some work, but it came out great.

John
CD36 Tiara

[Keith]

Hi Matt,

I'm not taking it as you being defensive, we are just discussing and clarifying.

The loop on the top of the car that the block attaches to is what I'm referring to. On my CD30 it has a Ronstan stamped loop that broke in two pieces on me last summer during a jib. It was a controlled jib but the loop simply snapped in two pieces and the boom took off against the shroud. I was able to lash the block back to the car to get me back but it was not fun. I was only able to find the exact same stamped loop that would fit the existing car. I did find some cast loops but wasn't able to make them fit the small car. So my question is do you have the stamped loop or a cast loop? and if it is stamped I just letting you know that it could snap as mine did.

Notice in the picture from John Ring the device that attaches the block to the car is very substantial.

Keith

[mashenden]

I like the curved traveler, so I bent some Ronstan track to match in a press. Then I gave Ronstan's double traveler car a whack with the press to match, rolls fine.

The bolt pattern was different, so I used a 7/8" hole saw to open some access new holes along the bottom of the old aluminum box beam so I could secure the nuts while I bolted the new track to the old curved box beam. This solution matches the original look with added strength, but you could easily add a pulley system to this if you want.

It was some work, but it came out great.

John
CD36 Tiara

Wow, that really does look good!! I also like the curved look.

Your mention of the work was why I went in the direction that I took - I didn't want to replace the track because it was still good and would have added to the project quite significantly. So I kept the existing track and car, but added control ends etc so that I could use it as a true traveler, and in hopes that future jibes would be not result in the traveler car flying off the end and flailing around looking for someone to dent.

[mashenden]

Hi Matt,

I'm not taking it as you being defensive, we are just discussing and clarifying.

The loop on the top of the car that the block attaches to is what I'm referring to. On my CD30 it has a Ronstan stamped loop that broke in two pieces on me last summer during a jib. It was a controlled jib but the loop simply snapped in two pieces and the boom took off against the shroud. I was able to lash the block back to the car to get me back but it was not fun. I was only able to find the exact same stamped loop that would fit the existing car. I did find some cast loops but wasn't able to make them fit the small car. So my question is do you have the stamped loop or a cast loop? and if it is stamped I just letting you know that it could snap as mine did.

Notice in the picture from John Ring the device that attaches the block to the car is very substantial.

Keith

Very interesting. I wish I had taken a picture while I was there this weekend. It will have to wait until the next visit now, but going from memory, it is not cast - it looked to be similar to many of the stainless steel shackles etc, not something that I would envision snapping, but after many years of wear and tear, it probably has worn thinner. I will definitely take a look. A replacement traveler car may be in my future!!

Thank you for the heads up.

[SSgtPitt]

Gentlemen, it seems as though several of us have watched our car explode out past the end of the traveler, raining little parts down to King Neptune as we stood there looking mystified for a moment.
So, now that it's happened to me, where do i find replacement parts to upgrade the old system but keep the existing track ?

[mashenden]

When this happened to me I moved the jib car to the main traveler because I never used the traveler for my small jib. I also upgraded the main's system by adding control ends and such, but kept the original track. Garhauer is my recommended solution, but it may not be the quickest.

If that is not an option, I remember someone (edit: John Ring) in this post mentioning buying a car and track then bending them slightly to work on our frame.

The details are in this post. The pic with the Red/Green control lines is mine.

[Jim_B]

Matt - do you recall the specific parts-numbers you got from Garhauer? I've unsuccessfully tried find the equivalent on Garhauer's website. Thanks