First Sail for the Far Reach

[John Stone]

Bob,
Thanks for the kind words and the suggestion.

I agree with your observations and that is exactly why I retained the solid bronze half round rub rails I removed from the boat when I glassed over the gunwale with the three layers of biaxial. We did that in order to stop all the leaks. But, at the time I was reluctant--and I still am, though to a lesser degree--to drill all the holes necessary to reinstall the rub rail. That many holes will almost certainly lead to some leaks. Compromises. Most of the Swans I have seen do not have rub rails--though I think that is do to the tumblehome. Neither does my favorite boat, Dorade. I think it is a much sleeker look.

If I were to decide to install a rub rail, my plan would be to mill a slightly wedge shaped (wider at the inboard side narrower outboard side, teak strip and install it at the gunwale. It would probably be close to full length. I would mill a caulking groove on the back side and install it with 3M 4000 and SS self tapping screws. Just like the original, I would want to screw it into the inward turning flange, so the fasteners would not, hopefully, penetrate into the interior of the boat. I would probably paint the teak white. Then, I would install the bronze half round rub strip, bedded with 3M 4000, with bronze wood screws.

However, I were to install the rub rail I would do it with the boat on the hard where I can work on scaffolding and that is not happening for a while. Besides, I would probably leap off the ledge if faced with another large project right now. It's all I can do to keep my head screwed on straight while finishing up a few small projects this week so we can get back to sailing. So, while I agree with you, it will have to wait. And in the meantime we will have to be careful and a little lucky working around all those hard objects you described.

[Astronomertoo]

Totally agreed John,
I understand your position, as I spent the better part of 10 years watching one of my best friends build a Bruce Roberts 38 from scratch using plans, many barrels of resin, and lots of beer. After spash down and lots of sorting things out, it was a long time before he could bear more than a very minor improvement project. You need to get out and feel the wind, and smell the salt for a while, live a little bit. You will always be keeping additional minor project lists and improvements, and you certainly have a fantastic starting point for them.
I think your plan for the future rub rail will be one of the better ones I have seen and the seal should be great. Meanwhile, enjoy the boat more and more every day, and live some good and exciting days.
I can tell you I had an old 1958 Dyer outboard skiff for a long time that had a nice but prominent tumblehome the last 5 ft on the lower stern quarters. It got banged at docks so much after I totally rebuilt it that I finally had to stop a few years later to add a heavy teak wood rub rail on both sides just above the water line to keep it from getting beat up. One of the better things I did to the old boat.
I do like your better rub rail ideas and will use some of them for this little CD25 retirement project, since I have lots of time left to do it.
Be well,
Bob Cuberly

[Skeep]

Gorgeous! Just fabulously brilliant in all aspects. And a Fatty Knees to top it off, yeah baby!

[swparis85]

Simply gorgeous. She must be a dream to sail.
I've never seen an interior laid out like that. Are those berths behind the seats?

[winthrop fisher]

very nice, looks brand new...

[John Stone]

SWParis85, yes those are full size pilot berths, one outboard of each settee. 6'4" and 6'2" long and 26" wide. They used to be common but not so much with contemporary designs.