Chafe Protection for Teak Coaming

[frank3]

Joe, I installed the Harken Carbo Furling Lead Block Kit. This keeps the furling line off the deck and gives you a better purchase to pull the furling line. The last block is mounted on the aft stanchion and it rotates so you're pulling up. It also has a ratchet feature that puts a slight drag on the line when you pull the sail out so the furling line goes into the drum smoothly. It's on sale now at Defender 217.44 I think it would be quicker to install these blocks than cutting and mounting strips of brass on the coaming. Just my two cents.

[Sea Hunt Video]

Joe:

What Frank suggested ( http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?pa ... &id=777608 ) is what I have on S/V Bali Ha'i and what I referenced in my earlier post. However, my block is not a "ratcheting block". The block attached to an aft port side stanchion makes it reasonably easy to pull in or let out the furling line and, while standing and holding the line, the line does not rub against the coaming. As I said, it was installed by the prior owner, not me. I am the beneficiary of his efforts.

Good luck with whatever solution you adopt.

[Joe Myerson]

Thanks, everybody, for your creative suggestions. I'm adopting a hybrid approach, designed as much to get Creme Brulee launched as to correct the chafing problem.

Before I read Frank's suggestion, I had already planed a small area of the coaming to accommodate a brass rub strake of about 8 inches. I'm in the process of refinishing the area with three coats of Cetol Natural Teak. I can shape and mount the brass later.

After reading Frank's email, I noticed that Defender does sell the Harken racheting block separately, and I'm ordering one after I send out this message to the board. I expect it will be here before launch, but if not, I can easily install it after the boat splashes.

Because of strength (mine and the winds on Buzzards Bay) issues, I suspect that I will need both options to protect my coaming, as I often have to reduce my headsail suddenly in the face of the afternoon sou'westerlies.

All your suggestions were, as usually, imensely helpful.

Best to all.
--Joe

[pjust]

Here's a pic of the coaming trim I put on Dolcetto:

[Jim Walsh]

Nice work!

[Joe Myerson]

Peter, that looks fine and salty. I'm opting for an 8-in. Rub strake. My carbon fiber ratchet block arrived today. It's not exactly classoc, but it should save my hands and the coaming, too.

[Dick Kobayashi]

Joe, I have a solution.

- large diameter shackle with threaded pin goes around stanchion close to cleat.

- then a small block is attached to shackle and furling line fed through this block.

Then, when furling the shackle lifts to the level of my tired hands and arms, and consequently there is no rubbing on the coaming by the furling line. No friction, no damage. Installation time: 5 minutes

This had worked perfectly for over a decade.

[moctrams]

My friend uses Trident PVC tubing on his teak. I don't recall the size, but it works. He ran it down his table saw to split the hose and fits it over the teak. The tubing stays put, even in rough weather.

http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?pa ... &id=106581

[gates_cliff]

Joe, I installed the Harken Carbo Furling Lead Block Kit. This keeps the furling line off the deck and gives you a better purchase to pull the furling line. The last block is mounted on the aft stanchion and it rotates so you're pulling up. It also has a ratchet feature that puts a slight drag on the line when you pull the sail out so the furling line goes into the drum smoothly. It's on sale now at Defender 217.44 I think it would be quicker to install these blocks than cutting and mounting strips of brass on the coaming. Just my two cents.

I just had roller furling installed! I'm excited about it. Have sailed a number of boats with roller furling but never had on my own boat. So, Bacon Sails in Annapolis provided the new sail and hardware and did the installation and added two lead blocks to stanchions, which seem to work fine. I do not have the ratchet block or swivel block or small cleat. I'd think I ought to install them them though.

Have a question, does the ratcheted block go at the bow near the furling drum or aft? I can order the extra blocks and cleat from Defender and get them in a couple of days.

Also, the furling lines seems small, like 1/4" or maybe 3/8" does anyone set up a small winch for that? Plus what do you do with all the extra line from the furler?

And, not done yet!!!! The new jib sheets that were installed, do you just leave them coiled up and hung over the sheet winches?

And, one more. On the new sail, there are no little dots on the sail to indicated how much is deployed. However, there are two horizontal stripes on the sail, which I was told are intended to indicate how much sail is deployed. But, I have to admit I don't quite understand the concept.

Thank you in advance.

I didn't get to go sailing last weekend because when I went down to my boat on Saturday, the steaming light fixture was hanging loose from the mast. It's attached with a substantial screw and I know it was screwed in tight, it as just hanging there by the wiring. I can't quite figure out what happened. Sent Bacon sails an email asking if their guys had knocked it off but haven't heard back yet.

[mgphl52]

Cliff,

1/4 inch line should be fine for the furler. If you go too large, the drum won't be able to hold it.
You really should not need a winch to furl in the sail.
When unfurling mine, I just keep light tension on the furler line by hand - cheaper than a 'ratchet' block...
I do have a cleat on my cabin top that I use to "lock" the furler and I lock my port sheet so there is no way for wind to open things up.

The horizontal stripes are draft stripes to let you see the sail shape easier.

Enjoy the furler! I know I do!

[tjr818]

Have a question, does the ratcheted block go at the bow near the furling drum or aft? I can order the extra blocks and cleat from Defender and get them in a couple of days.
Harken recommends placing the ratchet block aft

Also, the furling lines seems small, like 1/4" or maybe 3/8" does anyone set up a small winch for that? Plus what do you do with all the extra line from the furler?
I would not try to go up in size. A larger size would fill the furling drum before the sail was completely unfurled

And, not done yet!!!! The new jib sheets that were installed, do you just leave them coiled up and hung over the sheet winches?
What to do with the jig sheets while sailing is a universal problem, there are many ideas on what works best. We just coil them on the cockpit seat waiting for the next tack.

And, one more. On the new sail, there are no little dots on the sail to indicated how much is deployed. However, there are two horizontal stripes on the sail, which I was told are intended to indicate how much sail is deployed. But, I have to admit I don't quite understand the concept.

The horizontal lines are most likely draft indicating lines to help you see how the sail is shaped at the moment. If your new sail is a jib and not a genoa you are not going to use too many different settings, fully furled, fully deployed, and perhaps 10-15% furled as a reef. You could mark the furling line for the reef point or you could mark the jib sheets.

[gates_cliff]

As always, thanks for the replies and advice.

I'm going to order the additional blocks, etc and install them.

My sail is a 135. Thought about getting a 150 but decided against it, based on advice on this board.

I can understand using the horizontal stripes for sail trim, will figure out how to manage how much sail to deploy.

As to the jib sheets, I was wondering what to do when not sailing, of course with the hank on jib the sheets were coiled up with the sail.

BTW, sorry for hijacking this thread

Thanks again.

[tjr818]

As to the jib sheets, I was wondering what to do when not sailing, of course with the hank on jib the sheets were coiled up with the sail.

When not sailing, furl the genoa and then take an extra four or five turns to completely wrap the furled sail. This will help insure that the winds do not unfurl that new genoa.
That should leave you with only a few feet of sheet; wrap them around the winches three or four times and then secure them to the cleats, that should take care of it, with nothing left to gather or coil.

[gates_cliff]

As to the jib sheets, I was wondering what to do when not sailing, of course with the hank on jib the sheets were coiled up with the sail.

When not sailing, furl the genoa and then take an extra four or five turns to completely wrap the furled sail. This will help insure that the winds do not unfurl that new genoa.
That should leave you with only a few feet of sheet; wrap them around the winches three or four times and then secure them to the cleats, that should take care of it, with nothing left to gather or coil.

Thank you!

[Sea Hunt Video]

Cliff:

I do exactly as Tim recommended. I also secure the furling line to a cleat as an added preventative measure to ensure the Genoa (135) does not accidentally unfurl while on her mooring.