Traveler Slide - CD 28 Main

[Sea Hunt Video]

Hi Tim,

Thanks for the info on your traveler, it's nice to hear from someone who has been through the same project. Actually I was counting on re-using the riser, so I'm hoping the 4.0" spacing will still work OK (even if the bolts are wandering a bit through the deck. On your CD 27 does the Garhauer track and traveler car clear the combing without needing the riser? I can certainly see what you mean that if the bend isn't close it will be a problem.

Thanks again.

Bob

Bob:

I would be really grateful if you could take photos of the steps you take to install the Garhauer traveler as well as documenting your steps in writing. Not asking too much, am I

I plan to do the same project this summer (possibly while S/V Bali Ha'i is on the hard during most of "H" season) and would really like to copy how you do yours, especially if it is not too complicated.

Thanks in advance for any and all assistance, advise, etc.

[Bob Lascelles]

Hi Adam, Sorry that didn't work out. Jim suggestion about Rig Rite may be the way to go.

Good luck with your search.

Bob

[Bob Lascelles]

Hi Tim & Robert,

Tim thanks for the pictures. It looks like a really nice system, can't wait till it arrives. Your second picture shows exactly what I was wondering about. I think the riser is going to be staying! Did you find it was a big improvement with mainsail control? I have to admit I keep forgetting to move the stops when I need to! I'm beginning to get psyched about getting back on the water.... this has been the longest winter I can remember back East here.

Robert I'll be happy take pictures as I install the system and I'll try to give you a description. However, I know there are a lot of folks on this board that are much more experienced than me, so you may be learning from my mistakes Tim's experience with the accuracy of the curvature from Guido at Garhauer is making me feel good, because as you can see from his picture the section looks pretty rugged and I really don't want to have to try to adjust it.

Fair winds

Bob

[tjr818]

Bob,
I think the traveler is a big improvement. If I would have gotten it first, I am not so sure I would have bought the vang.
You MIGHT be able to use the old riser, ours would have been wide enough, but since we staggered the bolt holes from the old spacings I would have become Swiss cheese had I drilled that many more holes in it. Our set up works just fine. If your riser is like ours,it tilts the track forward, toward the mast. That might cause problems if the tilts causes the car to rub on the coaming.

[Bob Lascelles]

Tim,

This year is my year to improve my sail handling, so I'm really looking forward to the traveller. I have a vang, but mostly I've used it as a preventer going down wind. Nice to hear the traveller is a good improvement. I'm worried about the tilt in the riser, because I do think the car is going to be pretty close to the coaming. I'm locked in to the bolts being 4" on center in the track in the same locations as the original but it sounds like the holes may each be drilled at it's own angle, based on your experience. If I have to make a new riser, maybe I will try to use the old riser as a guide for drilling the holes at the same angles....we'll have to see.
Thanks for the advice and pictures

Have a good weekend

Bob

[tjr818]

Bob,
You won't be able to angle the holes for the new traveler. The old T track was only 3/8" high and drilling on an angle (unintentionally) was easy. The new traveler is about an inch tall. The factory holes pretty well guide the drill straight down. Non of this will real be a problem. Test fit the new traveler and see what needs to be done. While you are waiting, fill the old holes in the fiberglass with epoxy. If you decide that you need a riser, depending on you wood working skills, you can cut one to the curve of the deck, or you can use one or two thin strips that will bend to the curve. Then you set everything in place and drill through the riser and the deck using the traveler as a guide. Once that is done take everything apart, seal as required, slap on your favorite bedding, and bolt things down and go sailing. The only thing that takes much time is waiting for the epoxy and the varnish to dry.

[Sea Hunt Video]

I know it's a little late but this is an interesting thread about Bill's installation of a traveler on S/V Rhapsody, Bill's CD 25D. I think he used Harken parts.

www.capedory.org/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=29679

I am still trying to decide on what to use as replacement. It's only been 3 years that I have been thinking about this.

I have been thinking about buying a new large, flat screen TV for the past 8 years. Until then I am happy with my little 13" Sony CRT.

[Bob Lascelles]

Hi Robert,

Great info, your suggestion is not too late, (except for it's definitely going to be the Garhauer traveller on my boat). There is some great info in the threads you sent that will really help with installation. This board is one of the best things about owning a CD! Thanks

Bob

[Sea Hunt Video]

Robert I'll be happy take pictures as I install the system and I'll try to give you a description. However, I know there are a lot of folks on this board that are much more experienced than me, so you may be learning from my mistakes Tim's experience with the accuracy of the curvature from Guido at Garhauer is making me feel good, because as you can see from his picture the section looks pretty rugged and I really don't want to have to try to adjust it.

Fair winds

Bob

Bob: Sooooooooooooooo, where are pixs (right side UP please ) Where is detailed description of installation (simple words and phrases please )

[Bob Lascelles]

Hi Robert,
Well, I have a good excuse.....I'm still patiently waiting for the traveller to arrive...Really I spoke to Guido, at Garhauer last week and he said the track was at the anodizer, so it should be shipping early this week. I haven't removed the old one, so no pictures yet. I did get a pair fiddle blocks from Garhauer today & they are really beauties I'm looking forward to seeing the traveller.
5/28 is my target for launch. So, pictures to follow soon!

Smooth sailing

Bob

[Sea Hunt Video]

Bob:

I assume they will without being asked, but the next time you talk with Guido please ask him to keep his measurements, etc., for the traveler he is making for you. Assuming it installs and works correctly I will ask him to duplicate your traveler.

Thanks

[Bob Lascelles]

Hi Robert, the traveler arrived Tuesday and I finished installing it today. Thank you Tim for all your help! Here's my best try at step-by-step description

Great quality from Garhauer, the track dimension ordered (41" with a 1.0" chord height at the center) fit perfectly. I elected to use the existing teak riser. If you replace the riser you can fit about a 48.0" track between the coamings and have an extra 3" 1/2 travel per side. The Garhauer end stops bolt on and take up very minimal room. But the control block & bumper take up about 5.0" on each end, so even though the track is the same length as the original, the effective length the traveler is a reduced about 10.0".

The MT-3 track is 1.25" wide and very robust. If you use the existing teak riser and bolt holes, the car will interfere with the coaming at the back of the cockpit and so the track needed to be raised about 0.250-0.375". I decided to use the old track as a spacer, it is 0.375" high by 1.0" wide and seemed to work well. (I may make a custom 1 1/4" x 0.375" spacer next year).

I removed the old track and re-drilled the 11 mounting holes to 0.375" (so that they would not interfere because of misalignment with the 1/4 x 20 mounting bolts). I then re-installed the old track under the new track. The holes in the teak riser were sufficiently accurate that I only opened them up to a standard clearance for a 1/4-20 (17/64"). I took the opportunity to clean up the teak and countersink the holes in the teak to allow for better caulking. I inserted the bolts in the new track and through the old track, starting at the center and working out to each end.

In order to mount the track you need to move the traveler control cars which are located with Allen screws and also you also need to unscrew the rubber bumpers. Everything is nicely coated with never cease.

Do not remove the car from the track....it uses re-circulating balls and if you take the car off the end of the track, the balls will drop out and drive you mad trying to put them back (it even says so on the car). But don't ask me how I know, I just know!

I used 4" 1/4-20 FH bolts, (3 1/2" would be adequate, but not so easy to find). I used self locking nuts and over sized washers on each bolt. Access was through the starboard locker and through the engine control panel. It helps to have a socket wrench set and deep sockets.

The installation (just as Tim said) was pretty straight forward, and I'm really satisfied with Garhauer's quality.

Here's some pictures. Good luck with your project!

Good sailing

Bob

[Jim Walsh]

Nice work, Bob. Nice neat installation. Great instructions for the next guy also.

[Sea Hunt Video]

Bob:

Thank you VERY MUCH Your project looks great.

I have printed out your instructions and will study them carefully. Unfortunately, knowing me as well as I do I will have a lot of questions. How many emails can your computer accept without "overloading" Remember, as the Admiral says to me almost daily "Roberto, you are not the sharpest knife in the drawer".

1. You said you decided to use the old metal traveler track as a "spacer". Did you make a new teak riser that you installed on top of the old teak riser How did you allow for the curvature

2. If I understand your post, the traveler system now looks like this if looking at it from top to bottom:

New Garhauer traveler track (on top of)
Old traveler track (on top of)
Old teak riser (on top of)
Deck

Is this sort of right

3. Is the Garhauer track "curved" to conform to the deck curvature If so I assume this was done by Garhauer.

4. Did you send your old metal traveler track to Garhauer to use as a "template"

Sorry for so many questions. The above was done without benefit of caffeine.

[Bob Lascelles]

Hi Robert
You're correct, I installed the new track on top of the old track and mounted them on the original teak riser. I found out that the traveller car needed to be raised up 3/8" to avoid interfering with the coaming. Since the old track just happens to be 3/8" thick, and it is the right length and is drilled at the right locations, call me a Yankee but it made sense to reuse Especially since the clock is ticking on starting our too short sailing season here in Maine.

The Garhauer track is drilled for mounting every 4.0" . I had them start the first hole 1/2" from the starboard end, so there is a total of 11 mounting holes in the 41" track. They did not need the old track as a pattern. They just needed the length, chord height (1.0"), hole pattern (1/4-20 on 4.0" centers) and the location of the first hole (1/2" from the starboard end). You should check that your boat has the same measurements as mine (just in case)!

The track was bent at Garhauer so as to be 1.0" higher in the middle. This worked perfectly and the holes lined up pretty well with the old ones in the teak riser and the deck. I didn't find any evidence of leaking and the teak riser was nice and solid so I cleaned the teak up and added chamfers to help with caulking and a couple of coats of Cetol.

The old track (that I used as the spacer) when it is unbolted is flat, but it is relatively flexible. It easily takes the bend of the riser and the new track when bolted down. I enlarged the holes in the old track from 1/4" to 3/8" so that it would not interfere with the bolts coming through the new track and finding their way through the teak riser and deck. I made sure to use plenty of caulking on each bolt.
Hope this helps. If you have any questions, talk about them with the folks at Garhauer, they were very helpful.

All the best,

Bob