Barnacle Build Up on Prop

[sharkbait]

Very hard to do down here where typical tides are 1 foot.

[Steve Laume]

I would love to find a suitable careening place. Not only do you need enough tidal range but you also need a gently, sloping, sandy, beach with no rocks, wave action or boat wakes.

Maybe a large mat or enough fenders would solve some of the problems. It would be a shame to gouge up your hull while trying to save on hauling costs, Steve.

[Sea Hunt Video]

The past two (2) times I have cleaned the bottom and prop on S/V Bali Ha'i I have noticed something that seems peculiar (at least to me) and not something I have seen before.

S/V Bali Ha'i is moored at a local sailing club in Coconut Grove, Florida. Waters temps are always warm to moderate and especially warm in summer months. I have applied SeaHawk Tropikote to the bottom on both S/V Bali Ha'i and before that on S/V Tadpole (Ty Weekender). This bottom paint seems to work well.

Sooooooooo, the past two times the bottom was unbelievably clean with only a few barnacles. The prop, however, was a substantial "coral reef" with every type of sea life growing on its two small blades. This last time it honestly did not even look like a prop. I spent 40 min just cleaning the prop. I have never applied anything to the prop. It is the original 1982 bronze prop from the mfg.

Two questions. First, does anyone have any thoughts on why there is such a drastic difference in barnacles on the bottom versus the prop I know the TropiKote makes a difference but up until the past couple of cleanings the prop has not been that bad. Recently, it seems to quickly become a "coral reef" in between monthly cleanings.

Second, Dick, Jim, Nick, Russell, Mitchell and all, any updated information or experiences with either the Rustoleum or the Pettit product Is there something else that is better than either of these

When I hauled out last year I was next to a large (VERY LARGE) powerboat that was being professionally serviced. One day the guy was working on the twin props (they were huge ) and applied something that looked to be "gold" or yellow in color. It came in a small pint size can. I asked about this and the "pro" said it was the best stuff to keep barnacles, etc. off the prop in tropical waters. Of course, I asked for the name. Being the dummy that I am I have now managed to misplace the paper I wrote it on. I do remember the guy saying it was very expensive stuff. Duh The powerboat/yacht was an easy $1 mill FMV.

I will be hauling out shortly because of the Summer heat/humidity and to do some work on S/V Bali Ha'i - mostly servicing the seacocks. Come September I plan to paint her bottom (Tropikote) and apply something to her prop and then place her back on her mooring.

Any updated thoughts or suggestions on what to apply to a bronze prop will be much appreciated.

Any thoughts on the name of that "gold"/yellow product in a pint size container

[Dick Kobayashi]

I think I started this thread but Steve Darwin's advice careening plus 20 years of experience in Buzzards Bay without barnacles convinced me that maybe last years barnacle bazzar was an anomaly. So I did nothing. We will see if inaction pays off.

[Steve Laume]

Doing nothing is always a good return on investment. Unfortunately the barnacles are willing to put in the effort, Steve.

[Sea Hunt Video]

I re-read all of the posts. The "gold"/yellow product I saw being applied was "PropSpeed". Russell mentioned it in his post on this thread.

One pint costs about $360 at WM

I will be trying Rustoleum or Pettit unless someone has a more updated experience with a product.

[Jim Cornwell]

I think the key to success with the zinc paints is obsessive surface prep. That's because adhesion of the paint is everything. If the zinc paint is on there it will do its job. I vigorously wire brush the prop and exposed portion of shaft, then sand with emery paper, then wash, then finally wipe down with acetone to get the bronze squeaky clean. There may be other steps I don't know about that would have an even better result. Then multiple coats of cold galvanizing to build up a thick layer. So far, so good!

One year, the shaft zinc fell off (spun off) sometime in late summer. Zinc paint started to act as the anode, I think, and became pitted. Where the pits were, critters set up housekeeping. Now the zinc clamping screws get locktite!

[Jim Walsh]

I tried SeaHawk Cukote which is what they recommend for New England. So far I am amazed at how well it works. My bottom has never been cleaner and the resulting hull speed is noticeable. If it performs this well till haul out I'll never return to Interlux Extra.
The prop nut machine screws must have locktite or they'll back out for sure.
This was my first season trying the Rustoleum cold galvanizing but so far it is doing very well. No hitchhikers so far.

[Boyd]

Since I now sail a Catamaran, I am plagued by the maintenance issues on an aluminum sail drive. None of the paints that work with aluminum will keep critters off the saildrive more than a few months... the answer....Bag it.

If the boat is going to sit more than a few weeks, I cover the saildrive with a black plastic garbage bag held on with a couple of snapties. When I get ready to sail I cut the snapties and unbag the drives.

They remain a clean as the day they came from the yard.

BTW the saildrive is the worst invention in history. Unfortunately virtually ever catamaran made has them.... I miss my stuffing box.

Boyd
former CD30mkII owner
now driving a Catamaran.
Fort Lauderdale, Fl.

[Joe Myerson]

So I did nothing. We will see if inaction pays off.

Dick,
Best of luck with that approach.
Quite a few years ago I did the same thing ... and by mid-August, I could not get the boat to move under power. I thought it was a mechanical problem until I put on my dive mask. What I discovered was a prop that looked like a grapefruit. It was a spherical mass of barnacles, and scraping it off was difficult. I had to repeat the process once a week.
Maybe it will work for you ... hope it does.

BTW, Robert, I sprang for a PropSpeed kit. I'm hoping I'll be able to use it for at least 3 years, which still makes it expensive--but the stuff works like a charm.
--Joe

[Sea Hunt Video]

I am getting ready to apply "something" to the prop. I have re-read this thread and a few others on what is the best product to apply to the prop.

Dick K., Jim W., Steve, Jim C. and all who have tried the Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing Spray, is this product still working well I want to put something on the prop but do not know what. Someone stopped by S/V Bali Ha'i yesterday and was trying to get me to "invest" in a three (3) layered sealant process to protect the prop. I think I could have bought a new 2-blade prop for the price he was quoting.

I am inclined to just use the Rustoleum unless sailors have noticed problems recently.

Thanks in advance for any updated information.

[Jim Cornwell]

Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing, applied in April, is still working well on Yankee as of a couple of weeks ago, when she was short-hauled for a bottom wash. No growth on the prop and shaft, just a little slime on the bottom (thanks to Interlux CSC), and just a shred of a shaft zinc remaining (got to that just in time!).

I think application is key, as with all coatings. Get bronze shiny bright with wire brushing and emery paper, then wipe down with acetone, then spray on about 5 coats of paint, then recite some magic words, then go sailing! Jim.

[Jim Walsh]

Went for a swim today, the water is warmer than the air. I have not had one barnacle, nor have I had any other denizen's of the deep attach themselves to my prop or shaft since the boat was launched in the spring. I'm sold on Rustoleum cold galvanizing.

[Sea Hunt Video]

Jim C. and Jim W.:

Thanks for the updated reports on Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing spray.

I will use it and see how it works in the warm, nutrient rich and nourishing waters of Biscayne Bay and the sailing club's mooring field. Sometimes I think of the Bay as a giant Petri dish.

I generally clean my own bottom (I mean/meant S/V Bali Ha'i's bottom so my friend Steve L. is not confused ) so I will try to keep a record of growth, if any, on the prop.

I have been using SeaHawk Tropikote for several years now on both my Ty Weekender and my current CD 25D. It has proven to be a good bottom paint - at least for me.

[Steve Laume]

"I generally clean my own bottom"

So do I Robert. I always try to refer to Raven by name when I talk about doing things to her.

This brings home my point in a rather amusing way. Good to know your bottom is getting a regular cleaning, Steve.