Might be crazy -- and need tarp size for CD-28!

[Neil Gordon]

>>... and as Stan says, nobody buys a Cape Dory for PHRF racing.<<

No, but my BHIR (Boston Harbor Island Regatta) trophy case is doing just fine, first from when a storm (the day before) and fog (on race day) kept most of the competitors away and most recently when all of the other seniors who might have raced in Division 2 (non-spin) failed to register.

Seriously, there has always been an over-representation of Cape Dorys at BHIR. Looking forward to seeing you there next year! (Remember that if there are three or more the same, they'll designate a Class.)

[Paul D.]

My brother and I would usually buy the shrink film by the roll and do both our boats together. Buying the film in rolls with tape and strapping and vents would cost us about $100/each each time. He had the torch from his boat's PO. We used to do it every year then I wondered if I could reuse the shrink film 'cause I'm a cheap ba$tard Slovenian sailor with a fair bit of laziness as well. Plus I wanted to save time and create a wider weather window for the job.

We get our supplies from Dr. Shrink online and ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher or two set out during any flame throwing activity. My second year shrinking the boat, I came home from the weekend and my wife said OMG is everything alright, was it you guys? The quizzical look on my face made her explain how she heard on the news that some DIY'er shrink wrapping his boat had burnt down a boatyard in our state. It was a dry windy day and the damage went into the hundreds of thousands of dollars. Next year, my marina management would not let me shrink my boat myself. This angered me a fair bit as we did a far better shrink wrapping job than their crew, so I left. Bottom line, check your marina's rules.

Reusing the shrink film works well for me. It sheds the snow, is pretty tough yet light compared to big tarps. Hugs the boat tightly preventing chafe and after a few years of reuse can be recycled easily.

[Oswego John]

FWIW:

Whenever working with an open flame, keep a section of metal (definitely not plastic ) screen between the flame and the work.

This works on the same principle as the screen backfire retarder on the air intake of gasoline fueled marine engine carburetors.

Supposedly, open flame won't pass through screening but heat will.

Good luck,
O J