Tim wrote:Is the hole in the coaming going to match the hole in the box are will it be slightly smaller, or bigger? How does the top of the box line up with the top of the coaming?
Great questions and I'm open to suggestions on the best way to do it. I think that it would be difficult to make an exact hole in the coaming to match the box, therefore I will make it a slightly smaller for an aesthetic appearance. The edge on the top of the box was rounded to allow the fiberglass to lay over the seam. Maybe the board should be a little bit lower than the box and rounded on the inside edge?
Bob wrote:Would you please explain the paint material and process that you used on the coaming boxes.
To prepare a smooth surface for painting, I used a chip brush to apply epoxy mixed with talc. When hardened, it is easy to sand out with 220 grit. I used 3" foam rollers to apply EPI- two-part epoxy primer, which also fairs the surfaces. The top coats were a K type one-part semi-gloss polyurethane. It also went on very well with 3" rollers and brush tipping. Unfortunately, I can no longer find either the epoxy primer or the K type top coat.
When I painted the bowsprit, I moved on to the more expensive Pettit EZPrime for an undercoat and their two part polyurethane EZPoxy for the top coats. The EZPoxy is more difficult to work with and requires better roller technique and more care when tipping with a badger hair brush. It is a bit of a race to maintain the wet edge.
I'm still learning as I go. Don Casey's book, "This Old Boat", has an excellent chapter on brush and roller.