question for you wood workers

[Carl Thunberg]

Presumably, you're ripping these smaller pieces from a wider stock (I hope). I believe you said 3x3x14. If you keep the 3-inch wide stock against the fence and the 1/2-inch thin pieces to be ripped off from it, to the left side of the blade, away from the fence, it will simply fall away harmlessly and you can use the push blocks on the 2-1/4 in. piece remaining (including the kerf). After the first cut, flip it 90 degrees and repeat. You now have a 1/2 x 1/2 x 14 piece with all your fingers intact and no kickback because the thin piece was never pinched between the blade and the fence.

[Maine Sail]

I need to do ALOT of these pieces and was hoping to not use the rip fence, as I've already been bit once using a couple of push sticks. Couldn't I make a jig that ran in the mitre guage slot with some type of clamp attached to the top? Also I've seen some pics on a rip sled which looks promising.

Sounds like your saw needs a "tune up" and alignment. I rip small pieces constantly and almost never have kick back issues but I tune my table saw about once or twice per year. Also, the teeth of the blade should BARELY break the thickness of the wood. Too high a blade height can lead to more kick backs and lost fingers..

Use a feather board and push stick.

I use a MagSwitch Magnetic Pro Feather Board and in fact was using it just 30 minutes ago. I also have a magnetic push stick that sticks to the cabinet of my saw and is rarely if ever "misplaced"...



These pieces should be easy rips with the right blade and accessories...

[Markst95]

Thanks for all the replys.

[John G.]

If you're that intimidated by this simple project my advise would be to pay someone to do it for you, I don't mean to sound to harsh but some things are better left to others.