Cooling water problem

[Sea Hunt Video]

Jack, I hope I am not "tacking" this thread in a direction away from your initial post. If so, I apologize.

OJ, interesting thought.

I am not familiar with hoses on the Yanmar. Assuming they are original (or more likely OEM replacements), are they wire reinforced to avoid your suggestion of the "sucking" motion causing partial collapse As they get older, the wiring weakens - at least on car engine hoses.

I think maybe I should also think about replacing ALL intake hose piping and perhaps most, if not all, exhaust hose piping.

[Neil Gordon]

At least on the MD7A, removing the thermostat housing and exhaust manifold are not a big deal. If there's gunk there it's fairly easy to clean out Whether or not it solves your problem, cleaning out stuff that shouldn't be there will stop the next thing from going wrong (and it might be your solution to this one).

[rtbates]

A few years ago I mounted a raw water filter on the engine compartment bulkhead between the sea cock and water pump at about the height of the top of the engine. As the engine was not pulling any water from the sea and I could find no blockage including the hull grate and the new water pump and impellor were fine, I filled a bucket and pulled the hose off the backside of the water filter and ran the engine. It worked perfectly. Putting the hose back on the filter the water flow stopped.

I pulled the hose off the seacock and opened the seacock allowing water to pour out as expected. I shut the seacock and put the hose back on and took the other end of the hose off the front end of the water filter and water came out. Then the surprise. As I brought the water hose up to the water filter to reconnect the water, the flow stopped. The hose tip must have been above the sea level outside the hull.

This meant I had installed the filter above sea level and I must have lost the siphon effect and the water pump was not able to pull the water through the filter when an air gap occurred. I made sure all air was gone from the system and it worked fine. The question still remains on how air got into the system in the first place to stop the water flow. I'm still burning a lot of oil so when I pull the boat next month I'll have the engine checked out.

Seraph has her cooling water filter in the bilge for that exact reason
A bonus is any water released during filter change, etc. ends up where it needs to be!

[Sea Hunt Video]

Randy:

Please remember I am "dumber than dirt"

Do you have any photos you can post This request from the guy who always asks for photos but is too stupid to learn how to post his own

I am assuming your raw water intake seacock is on the starboard side of the engine compartment down low on the hull. If you run a hose from there forward and under the drip pan, etc. to the bilge, through a raw water filter and then back aft to the engine via the same route that seems like it would be a real tight 180 degree turn for the water inside the bilge area

I would think (I am dumb ) that would constrict and inhibit water flow.

I know I am missing something (in addition to brains ). What am I missing

[rtbates]

Randy:

Please remember I am "dumber than dirt"

Do you have any photos you can post This request from the guy who always asks for photos but is too stupid to learn how to post his own

I am assuming your raw water intake seacock is on the starboard side of the engine compartment down low on the hull. If you run a hose from there forward and under the drip pan, etc. to the bilge, through a raw water filter and then back aft to the engine via the same route that seems like it would be a real tight 180 degree turn for the water inside the bilge area.

I would think (I am dumb ) that would constrict and inhibit water flow.

I know I am missing something (in addition to brains ). What am I missing

Nope.. If you go from the seacock up a few inches in a gentle arc and back down into the bilge, where it goes straight into the filter assy input fitting. The output of the filter assy is pointed aft and the hose makes about the same path just a tad toward the middle and into the raw water pump..THE FILTER ASSEMBLY'S INPUT/OUTPUT ORIENTATION take care of the 180 turn. Our filter is mounted on the port side about 3-4" down from the top. Use 5200 to glue a piece of starboard or some other made made 'wood' product to the bilge wall and screw the filter assy to it. NEVER SCREW DIRECTLY TO THE FIBERGLASS.. ALMOST never anyway. There are exceptions, but not many..

PLEASE QUIT TELLING US THAT YOU ARE DUMB! As a fellow 25D owner I'm offended. Dumb people do NOT own CDs much less a 25D!!!!

[Steve Laume]

Raven did not come with a raw water filter. I mounted one on the starboard side inside the engine compartment. It just happened to work out that the cover is about 1/2" above the water line. I did not plan this but certainly would if I were doing it again. I can remove the cover without seawater flooding the boat, even with the seacock open.

When it is time to winterize the engine, I start it up and run it normally. I then get ready with a jug of antifreeze, take the cover off of the strainer and start pouring as I close the seacock. It is a very slick set up for a boat that stays wet all winter and sometimes has the engine winterized several times during the winter season.

Here in CT I have never had more than a strand or two of eel grass in the strainer. It is still a great comfort to have it and I like it in the engine compartment where I can very easily see it every time I am in there. When I do drain it, the water goes into the engine pan.

The strainer in the bilge would make very short work of using the engine as an emergency bilge pump. Just take the cover off of the strainer and you are in business. I was on a large power yacht (60') where we used the engine for pumping once but do not generally think it is a very good idea.

What I would really like if a larger engine compartment, Steve.

[chase]

You're on the right track checking cooling water at the mixing elbow. These should be replaced periodically, which I did not know until I bought my new boat and saw records for three of them over the years.

At the same time I bought Cheoah, my 2GM20 on Anne Freeman (what a gal!) quit putting out water at the exhaust. I changed impeller first, then went though all the intake options. Finally I checked the small hose that attaches to the mixing elbow and found a couple gallons/minute there.

You can clean them out, but only after you've accepted the fact that it may collapse at some point when you don't want it too. They're a couple hundred bucks, and my mechanic sells them with the flange (prolly another part name here) attached so they bolt right up and you avoid messing with the big nut in the middle of the exhaust assembly. He took mine as a "core" and used it to make an assembly for the next guy, after cleaning it up.

Did you check water output yet as you mentioned?

Good luck-

Chase

[Sea Hunt Video]

I am hopeful that I am not "tacking" this thread away from its initial post. If so, I apologize to Jack Carr.

On my new-to-me 1982 Cape Dory 25D (Yanmar 1GM) the prior owner removed the thermostat when it began to malfunction and did not replace it. The CD 25D was homeported in NJ at the time.

During an engine survey sea trial in NJ, the engine overheated when run at about 3,400 rpms.

I am wondering if I should install a new thermostat I do not know much about diesel engines but assume a thermostat works about the same on a diesel as a gas engine. It opens to allow more water (or coolant) into the engine once the engine gets to its normal operating temp and allows the engine to maintain a certain temp range. Simplified I know.

Given the generally warm South Florida waters (85 degrees summer; 75 degrees winter) is there really any need for a thermostat on a 1982 Yanmar 1GM I have no problem purchasing and installing one but wonder if there is any need/benefit to doing so.

Suggestions, recommendations, advise are much appreciated by this "rookie/tadpole" sailor.

[SurryMark]

What happened to me last weekend doesn't sound like the same story, but here it is:
No water out exhaust, 30ish miles from home port.
Water dripping from back of engine, but I didn't want to run it with no water out the exhaust. (Engine does not have heat sensor or alarm.)
Fearing something cracked, I ran it for a bit and watched the engine.
The anti-siphon hose from the top aft of the engine to the high part of the exhaust pipe had come lose on the engine end. Water pumping into bilge.
Happy sailor again.

[Sea Hunt Video]

Seraph has her cooling water filter in the bilge for that exact reason
A bonus is any water released during filter change, etc. ends up where it needs to be!

Randy:

What make and model of raw water filter strainer did you install in the bilge area on your Cape Dory 25D

Thanks,

[Sea Hunt Video]

Seraph has her cooling water filter in the bilge for that exact reason
A bonus is any water released during filter change, etc. ends up where it needs to be!

Randy:

What make and model of raw water filter strainer did you install in the bilge area on your Cape Dory 25D

Thanks,

[rtbates]

Seraph has her cooling water filter in the bilge for that exact reason
A bonus is any water released during filter change, etc. ends up where it needs to be!

Randy:

What make and model of raw water filter strainer did you install in the bilge area on your Cape Dory 25D

Thanks,

I've not a clue. Maybe I'll get to the boat shortly and remember to look!

[Steve Laume]

Here is what Raven has and I believe it tends to be the industry standard. The one on Raven is bronze, of course!

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... ht+Glasses

I have never found much of anything in there but it is a comfort to know it is there, Steve.

[Sea Hunt Video]

Steve, thanks for the info on your raw water strainer. I did not realize Groco made so many.

Randy, I will look forward to learning which one you installed as I am probably going to install whatever one I buy in the bilge - as you did.

My thought is to buy a thick piece of plywood or PVC board and use 5200 to attach it to the inside wall of the bilge. Then attach the raw water strainer to this board. I also have a secondary Rule pump that I want to lift up out of the bottom of bilge and will try to attach this to a portion of the board as well. I saw some diagrams of this in a sailing magazine a few months ago but cannot know remember which magazine I saw it in.

I wish everyone Safe and Happy Holidays

[moctrams]

The problem with some strainers is they lose their “primeâ€