SunShine to Cebu

[fenixrises]

OK OK OK You guilted me into it.

Hi all,

It has been just about a year since my last big outing with SunShine.

When SunShine and I started out from Florida in 2010 I had a general plan. At that time the plan was to go through the Panama canal then across the Pacific to American Samoa and then north and west to Cebu Island in the Phillippines. I would arrive in late January. This would give me enough time to visit my friends Tim and Jess and then head out for the long crossing to southern California.

A fried engine and numerous other problems delayed my departure from Samoa until April,2011. This meant that my arrival in Cebu would be much later than planned, in fact it was nearly July when we finally arrived. Now if you are going to depart from anywhere in the western Pacific and head to the west coast of North America you should plan to leave about June 1st. That gives you two months to cross the north Pacific with most of the time in late spring and early summer.

The recommended passage is to leave from Osaka, Japan at 38* north and head due east at that latitude to San Fransico, also at 38* north. That's about a 4,700 mile trip. I did not want to go up to Japan in late winter to early spring because it is cold up there and also stormy. So I thought that I would leave from the Philippines. I also did not want to go San Francisco but to the Los Angeles area. That meant the trip would be up around 6,000 miles non stop and with no land along the way. That's a long trip, 50~60 days or thereabouts.

I would still have to sail north to 38* and then make my easting in the westerlies, without going too far north. Although the south Pacific is well know for the roaring 40's that is still true for the north Pacific as well. Not something I wanted to do in this boat. But I did make the passage from Hilo, Hawaii to SoCal by going up to 35* north, then east. It was an easy trip of 25 days.

Here I was in Cebu, in July. Not enough time to visit, then reprovision and head north. So I decided to stay until the next year, 2012. That way I could have a good time here, which I did. Being an OWM in good standing I also hoped to find an amenealbe crew who would like to make the trip back to SoCal with me. This I did not.

By September SunShine had been in the water nearing a year and a half. Being in the tropics it was time for new bottom paint, which I did. Then I was getting very restless having been at anchor for three months. That's when I decided to head up north to visit Subic and Hong Kong. That I did as well. On my return I got a bit of sad news.

On my return trip from Subic to Cebu and while making the initial passage to Bonbonon my 92 year old mother passed over. I found out about this when I called my sister while returning to Cebu from Bobonon. By then of course everything had already happened, funeral and etc. My sister was feeling a little down and asked when I would be returning to the U.S.. At first I said I wasn't sure. After returning to Cebu we had a longer discussion and I decided to fly back in May of that year, 2012.

I still had not found a crew and by now with May approaching it was not going to be possible to get a crew and the needed passport and visa. So flying back to the US was a practical alternative. Maybe next year I would make the trip...

After returning to Cebu in June I was looking at another year before sailing back to SoCal. My search for a crewmate was still unfruitful. So I pottered about SunShine working on the never ending list of projects than any 32 year old boat has. By now I had spent enough time in Carmen to get to know many more people.

Tim and his younger brother Ben are popping out Mumby 48's like an automobile production plant. There have been up to 12 of Tim's boats at various stages of construction, here in Carmen. The new owners are often to be found working alongside Tim's trained crew finishing off thier boats.

Then there is the "marina" area a bit to the south in the "DryDock" facility. This area draws cruisers who are visiting the Phils for a stopover to work on thier boats. This can be anything from a little varnish work to major rebuilds. Hard to do in the water. One enterprizing yachtie agreed to build a steel haul out cradle in exchange for it's use when finished. Next month SunShine will try it out as it is bottom paint time again.

Generally every Friday night the local, in residence sailors get together at 6 PM for "Beer O'Clock". This is a simple social gathering held at one of the local eateries within sight of SunShine. The area is known as The Plaza. The Plaza is a small park area across the highway from the main administation buildings of Carmen. Many people, mostly youngsters, come out on Friday night to stroll around the park and partake of a simple meal in on of the many outdoor restaurants than line one side of the park area.

Right next to our favorite eating establishment the city government erected a high roofed open building with some surplus(?) tax funds. You know the old spend it or lose it government mentality. This turns out to be great for us Beer O'Clock ers. Because it often rains during our Friday night sojurns, so the roof is put to good use for at least a few hours a week.

As is typical this is an eclectic group and not all are sailors. The are many expats from numeours countries living in the Philippines. It is cheap and relatively safe here. Living on a retirement pension can be quite comfortable and the warm often sunshiny weather makes it tolerable for those with old bones and joints.

And then there are of course the BSGs. The Philippines abound with attractive women. Some are sharks but many are very sweet and pleasant. But unfortunately for me not many are sailors. Of course to most Philipinos the concept of lounging around your cruising boat and then setting sail for distant places is something a bit foriegn to them. Boats, usually small, are for fishing not pleasure.

Then there are the "Hashes" and of course "Hashers". This is something I knew nothing about before arriving in Cebu. Basically a group of people get together bi-weekly on Sunday afternoons for a bit of a strenuous walk through the woods and fields. Ben is the current organizer. Because of my injuries I cannot do the "Hash" but like to join in the aftemath festivities. Usually this is... "you guessed it" booze and food. Google "Hash" for more info.

2012 is passing. I am thinking about next year and SoCal and also if I can still do that kind of distance sailing or even want to. Then I meet a BSG with possibilities. She agrees to go with me to Subic. I want to go in November as I did in 2011. But the buearocratic snafu in geting the needed paperwork and submiting it to get her passport took two months. After that it was only 21 days to get the passport.

While still waiting for the passport we left Cebu heading to Subic. Since it was already December and I wanted to be back at the Arizona for the holidays I wanted to go straight to Subic without stopping anywhere along the way. With my new crew I thought this would be easy because a 24 hour watch could be maintained.

The first day, contrary to the weather report, was a bit blustery and lumpy. Late that night I anchored at Malapasqua Island again. But the lumpy cross seas that filled the anchorage did not allow a very restful night. So at sunrise I hauled up the anchor and set course to the NNW.

On this trip to Subic I hoped to be able to stay east enough to go north of Mindoro Island. The day developed into fine weather and easy sailing. Close reaching but easy in 10~12 knots true wind. The seas normally do not get too big as there are islands all around the central Phils.

After the first lumpy day and night my crew was nearly catatonic with mal de mer. This improved only marginally over the next three days. To me of course it was mostly light going often with the motor assiting in the 8~10 knot generally NE~ENE breeze. So beautiful conditions or it would have been so with a bit more wind.

About a day out from Subic it looked like we would arrive at 1 PM the next day. While I often make these preditions I know enough not to set too much store in them. As things turned out out SunShine and crew made it with about 15 minutes to spare.

The Arizona looked the same. The floating bar had an addition. Next to the bar there was now a barge for scuba diving. One of the local diving companies made an arraingment with Tommo to use his place as a gateway for dive training and excursions. Since many of the neophite divers stayed at the Arizona this all worked out fine.

I did notice that the numbers of people seemed to be less than last year. But the reservations board was full of names and the whole month was booked solid. This is due I am sure to Tommo's efforts at aggresively promoting his business through travel agents in OZ and ENZED and elsewhere.

This year just seemed different to me, more low key and not as energetic as the previous season. Tommo confided in me that he had recently renewed his lease for another 20 years and planned to sell his business as that lease extension was worth quite a bit. Then he would retire!

I laughed at him and asked what he would do with himself. He told me the last time he "retired" it lasted two weeks. I suspect his next retirement will be as short, Tommo having the personality and drive not to be content with becoming a couch potato.

We spent the holidays in Barretto and planned on a mid January departure. I started to watch the weather and again hoped to pass north of Mindoro in easy conditions. The day arrived and we set out in the morning heading south along the coast of Luzon Island. The wind was supposed to go to zero and slowly fill from the north. Ideal conditions. Get through the pass with no wind then slide on back to Cebu in a slowly building northerly.

NOT! So much for forecasts. We got to the western entrance of the pass late in the afternoon in a building easterly, arrrg. I decided to tack back and forth across the pass entrance until morning hoping that the wind would by then ease of a bit. During a controlled gybe with my inexperienced crew at the helm the main came across a little too fast. Bang! OK we are on the new tack but not moving very fast. I looked around but could see nothing wrong at first as it was fully dark by now.
Then I shined my flashlight up at the mainsail. AAHHHHH! Big rip. Luff to leach. The main was double reefed and the tear was about one-third the way down the luff.

Drop the sail and lash it to the boom and wait for day light was the only thing to do. At sunrise I started to remove the main from the mast and boom. Then it was time to set the trysail. A nice brand new trysail for a Beneto 36.5. I got it on e-Bay for $250US. Good deal and international orange to boot. It took a bit of fussing to get it set properly, glad I did not have to do that in 50 knots.

Then it was time to bag up the main. We folded it on the starboard side deck. As I picked up the sail to make it into a smaller bundle the tabbing along the foot tore right off. ??? Strange I thought, for a sail less than three years old.

With daylight gaining and a light rain falling we powered along due east into the pass against the 15 knot easterly. Once enough easting was made we could bear off to the SE and be able to power sail easily. My crew was again near catatonic, in what to me was very easy conditions.

The rest of the trip to Cebu was made in light to no wind conditions. The northerlies did not develop until after we got back to Carmen. We entered the bay and picked up my mooring just before sunset. That night the promissed northerly finally arrived and blew 25+k for the next two days. O well!!

So altogether four days up and four days back. Light conditions prevailed. But in the area to the north the NE monsoon is usually quite strong by December and through the following months until April or May. The winds are often lighter down here in Carmen at about 10*30' north.

Oh yes my mooring. In the summer of 2012 I tired of cleaning my anchor chain every couple weeks. So I went down to Cebu city and poked around a used marine supply shop. There I found an 80 kilo cast iron fisherman anchor and 10 meters of heavy(7kilos/meter) stud link chain. I hooked this to a 25 meter piece of 22mm polyprop line. Since I am moored in about 15 feet of water this set up seems quite secure.

During a recent typoon scare I temporarily added, with shackles, my primary 45lb plow to the big chain set up. I left the boat's chain attached to the plow. The typoon went south, fortunately for us. The local religious types said it was a gift from the first Filipino(a Cebu resident, now deceased),recently sainted. The gift was to spare the people of Cebu from death and destruction. Nothing however was said about the extensive property damage and the 1,000 people killed in Mindano as a result of this gifted diversion of the typoon.

So here it is, mid March. Looks like another flight to the US for me in June. Later this year I want to make a sailing trip to Thailand(2,000 miles) via the straights with stops at Borneo and Brunei. It's about a six month cruise leaving in November and returning in the spring of the following year at the begining of the SW monsoon season.

Have a good spring and summer sailing season.

Take care,
Fred

PS New updates on the SunShine site @

http://www.sbastro.com/SunShine/Journey2012.html

http://www.sbastro.com/SunShine/Journey2013.html