Bending Bronze

[Dean Abramson]

I think it is too bowed to come out. But definitely, I will try that first. If that worked, then I could try to drill straight thru, if I decide to get another pin.

And if, of course, I decide to stick with my much-maligned 22 lb. Bruce, maybe none of this will happen.

Thanks!

Dean

[Phil Shedd]

Dean

I would agree that if try to bend things back into shape you will have to heat it first . Make sure the whole area you are bring back into line is heated. You want it hot but not really hot . Use slow steady pressure. A long lever is nice to work with like a length of pipe .

I would saw the pin. DO not use bolt cutters as thay will crush the pin when it cuts. This will put the pin out of round and then you may not be able to get it out of the hole.


Good luck

Phil

[Oswego John]

Dean
DO not use bolt cutters as thay will crush the pin when it cuts. This will put the pin out of round and then you may not be able to get it out of the hole.

Phil

Perhaps John V. is on to something. I wasn't aware of bi-metallic hacksaw blades being available. I know of, and use, bi-metallic hole saws.

There is SS and then there is SS, many degrees of hardness. A non-scientific method I sometimes use to get a rough idea of the degree of hardness is to try to stick a magnet to the work at hand.

I agree with Phil about using bolt cutters. I don't lop through in onr shot. What I do is "ring" the bolt with several lighter nicks around the entire bolt until you see that it is almost through.

Before it is severed, check the surface for lumps and bumps and dress them with your trusty abrasive wheel or diamond file. Then finish the cut.

Or you could get back to basics and use a variable speed hack saw.

O J

[Carl Thunberg]

I love the collective wisdom of this Board. Phil is, of course, completely correct. Bolt cutters would make the pin way out of round. Many minds are better than one.

[Numbah134]

My hacksaw secret weapon is a Remington-grit-edge blade - basically a rod covered with chips of tungsten carbide - cuts darn near anything - not as fast a a regular blade that will cut the metal in question, but a lot faster than a toothed blade that dulls in use when working something like stainless that work-hardens as you cut it - and it cuts glass, tile, rock, hardened steel, what-have-you.

Sad to say, my one experiment with a normally good name (Starrett) in the "blade" rather than "rod" version of this tool was very disappointing. Not sure if it's the format or the brand, but I'd say stick to the "rod" - it's more versatile. Maintaining a straight cut is not difficult, and you can flip the rod for a fresh edge and/or cut sideways if need be.

Hmm - the only search results I get on the Remington ones now are on the fleabitten bay, so I wonder if that brand is out of production now. I don't go through that many, so it's been a long time since I bought one.

OTOH, Stanley seems to have one for under $3 (10")...or $5 (12")

[Steve Laume]

I would go for either punching out out or grinding off the keeper in the pin. If you can slide the pin free of one side there shouldn't be any reason it wouldn't come out. If it needs some minor persuasion, a steel block and a ball pen hammer should straighten it out enough to remove it.

Why can't bronze be bent cold?

I have flattened some stock but not had that much experience with it. It just doesn't seem like this part needs to be moved that far, Steve.

[Dean Abramson]

pedbed,

The pin is bowed upward, so it is not going to come straight out. I will have to cut it.

In the stretch, Hacksaw is running neck and neck with Grinder, Boltcutter is fading, and Dynamite is paying 30 to 1.

Dean

[sloopjohnl]

dremel tool with a small cutting wheel. easily handled, no collateral damage.

[Sea Hunt]

pedbed,

The pin is bowed upward, so it is not going to come straight out. I will have to cut it.

In the stretch, Hacksaw is running neck and neck with Grinder, Boltcutter is fading, and Dynamite is paying 30 to 1.

Dean

I was not going to comment on this thread because I really know very little about the subject matter. However, since the "founder" of this thread has suggested "dynamite" (antiquated, which is perhaps why it has 30:1 odds ) I thought I would offer the following:

A properly sized C4 shaped charge should easily remove the offending bolt. Of course, given its proximity to the bronze bracket and the wood sprit, it is likely any shaped charge large enough to "remove" the offending bolt will cause collateral damage to nearby objects, even a carefully shaped charge.

Upon reflection a proper hacksaw looks better and better. More work, more time, but minimal collateral damage .

[Tom Keevil]

I hate to mention this, for fear of hijacking this into a universally feared anchor thread, but you could go to a larger anchor without bashing your bowsprit if you would give up the Bruce and change to something like a Delta.

[Dean Abramson]

I am universally afraid.

[Dean Abramson]

Seriously, Tom, I am looking at other options. I have just been happy with my Bruce, so having the same thing but 50% heavier is very appealing.

But your comment made something just dawn on me. Maybe with the larger Bruce, the flukes will be even closer to the sprit. ?? So once I cut the pin, I will borrow a 33 lb. Bruce from a friend, and see how it fits. I may have to go to something else.

Does anyone out there have a 33 lb. Bruce on a sprit and roller like mine?

Dean

[Klem]

Not a bruce but I can tell you that a 15kg Rocna fits in that roller and doesn't bang into the bowsprit very much. It can touch when heeling an awful lot but not too bad. My bowsprit arrangement is basically the same as yours.

[Bill Goldsmith]

Dean,

Your teak looks nice. What kind of coating do you use?

Bill

[Dean Abramson]

Hi Bill,

Thanks. I use Starbright Tropical Teak Sealer, in the lighter shade.

I scrub in the spring with bronze wool, then apply one coat. That's it for the year. Please use it! Since I don't find many people who do, I am always worried it will be discontinued.

The stuff is odd, it has the consistency of a runny chocolate pudding. You use a foam brush. It is really easy, and works great. I have used it for probably 15 years.

Dean