Do we need a smaller jib?

Discussions about Cape Dory, Intrepid and Robinhood sailboats and how we use them. Got questions? Have answers? Provide them here.

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John Vigor
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This is one way

Post by John Vigor »

Bob and Sea Hunt have asked how you reef a hanked on foresail on a CD22, singlehanded and under sail.

I don’t have a CD22, but I did have a Santana 22 and a 30-foot sloop with reefing jibs, so I’ll tell you how I did it.

The first rule for persistent singlehanding is that you have either a wind-vane steering system or an electric autopilot that will hold your course while you go up to the foredeck. I have both on my CD27. If you lack either of these essential aids, and you have to reef the foresail in an emergency, we’ll get to that later.

Meanwhile, let’s presume you are in a decent blow. You have already taken all the reefs you can in your mainsail. Now you want to reef the working jib. (Incidentally, don’t bother with reefs in any other size jib.)

For Sea Hunt’s sake, let’s have a look at the reefing jib. It reefs from the foot upward, just like a mainsail. It has a tack cringle in the luff a few feet up from the tack, and a clew cringle in the leech a few feet up from the clew. In between, in a horizontal line, are two or three reef points, with pendants hanging down on either side of the sail, just like the mainsail.

On the bow, at the stem fitting, there is either a stainless steel hook, or “horn,â€
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Sea Hunt
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Re: This is one way

Post by Sea Hunt »

John Vigor wrote: If you are singlehanded, the best course of action is to douse the jib completely, followed by the mainsail. Then, with the boat rolling wildly, reef the jib as described above. Raise the mainsail first, then the jib.
Mr. Vigor, thank you very much for the detailed discussion of reefing a jib underway.

Unfortunately, S/V Tadpole does not have a bow pulpit, stanchions or life lines to hold on to or balance with while "rolling wildly".

I am sure it may be easier and more dependable than roller furling (if you know what you are doing), have an autopilot, bow pulpit, life lines, etc., but for me, I would be too concerned about getting knocked over the side. Unfortunately, I am a very good swimmer and very comfortable in the water and can tread water for hours. Thus, instead of quickly downing and being done with it :wink: , I would be forced to watch my beloved S/V Tadpole sail off on her own with me calmly treading water and eventually swimming to shore. Not a pretty picture.

At this point, I am guessing I am going to continue to look into a simple, dependable roller reefing system for S/V Tadpole. I continue to hear good things about Harken and Schaefer, as well as Pro Furl.
Fair winds,

Robert

Sea Hunt a/k/a "The Tadpole Sailor"
CDSOA #1097
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Bob Ohler
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Question for John Vigor

Post by Bob Ohler »

John, in a separate offline dialog, one sailor suggested reefing the jib by lowering the sail to a lower tack, (using a down haul if necessary), reattaching the new tack, and then using the same previous clew as on the "non-reefed" jib.

What are your thoughts about this?

Thanks,

Bob O.
sv Aloha Spirit
CD30B
CDSOA Member #188
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John Vigor
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Reefing luff only

Post by John Vigor »

Bob, I guess it might work with a very high-cut headsail such as a Yankee, although I've never seen it done. It seems more natural to me to keep the reefed foot parallel to the unreefed foot, but that may be just because it "looks right."

You wouldn't be reducing the area by much, though, unless you took a very large bite out of the luff, and in that case the sheet lead would need to come a lot farther forward -- perhaps farther than your track could accommodate. You might also lose your view forward, since the dropped clew now turns the sail into a deck-sweeper. It depends on how high-cut the jib is. If the foot were almost parallel to the foredeck to start with, you would be obliged to reef the leech as well as the luff.

But you could easily experiment with this idea by playing with your jib at the dock on a nice calm day. Or else by cutting a bit of paper to the shape of your jib and folding it to various reefed positions.

There are always various ways to reduce sail area. I have read old books in which sailing fishermen used to reef a foresail by lowering it, tying a great overhand knot in the head, and raising it again. I haven't had the heart to try that yet. Too afraid I might never get the darned knot undone -- and not very good for my wire luff.

Cheers,

John V.
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mgphl52
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Post by mgphl52 »

When I saw this thread yesterday, I was pretty sure I knew how it's done, but having no practical experience or pictures, kept my fingers "shut"...

Well, they should have babbled. Here's a link that explains it pretty well

The sail showing reef clew and tack as well as grommets for tiding up the sail:
[img]http://www.practicallysailing.com/userd ... Reef_2.jpg[/img]

I have also pondered the possibility of having a single reef line, connected to primary clew then through the reef clew, reef tack, primary tack and back to a cleat. It may have too much friction, but may also work, who knows! ;-)

-michael
-michael & Toni CDSOA #789
s/v KAYLA CD28 #318
2012 FLSTC Heritage Classic
Niceville FL
+30° 30' 24.60", -86° 26' 32.10"
"Just because it worked, doesn't mean it works." -me
No shirt + No shorts = No problem!
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Steve Laume
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Post by Steve Laume »

On Raven we have a roller furling yankee but do have a set of reef points for the staysail.

I have reefed the staysail on a couple of occasions. The boat seems to have better balance and much more drive with at least a little bit of the jib flying.

Our staysail is on a boom so this simplifies things a bit further. To reef, I make a line fast to the tack fitting, run it up through the reef cringle and back down to a block at the tack. It can then be tentioned and cleated off once the halyard has been slightly loosened. The original tack can then be unshackled. Another line is run from the boom end to the clew cringle and hauled taunt. All that remains is to roll up the lose sail and tie it in a bundle. This last step is more important on a jib than it is on the main.

This process would be much the same without the jib boom. The tack line allows you to adjust the height of the sail above deck and acts as a down haul. I would think a short length of line could also be used to connect to your original jib sheets so as not to have to run another set or risk losing control of the clew while trying to transfer the sheets to a new location.

If you are reefing your jib things are going to be wet and blustery. It is not the time that you would want anything completely disconnected, Steve.
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Bruce Bett
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Do you really need a smaller jib.

Post by Bruce Bett »

The original question here was do you need a smaller jib. I sailed a CD 25 fairly extensively on lakes Erie and Huron, over a period of 11 years, and never felt the need for a storm jib. I would never claim to have seen the worst the lakes can offer, but I've been through some pretty stinky stuff. I've sailed under jib alone. You don't point well and coming about is iffy, but hey... I've even run under bare poles. I know of at least one CD 25 that carried a reefable jib, and I believe he reefed it once or twice. If you want to go that rout, talk to a sail maker. he can tell you how to rig it.

Bruce Bett
Malinche
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oatmealraisin
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Post by oatmealraisin »

It sees that my two best options are to either put a reef in the working jib, or use the Alado furling unit that we have. To make sure I have used the black box during my consideration, what do the Captains think about the Alado system. It was rated in, I think, "Practical Sailor," but I prefer your evaluation.

Thank you,
Tom Inua, CD 22
Jack Carr
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CD 22 Jib Issues

Post by Jack Carr »

Tom,

I don't have the tech skills of many of the sailors on this Board but my 20 years of sailing a CD 22D has taught me some of her sailing points. It sounds like you do some single-handed sailing. If so, I suggest you unpack that rolling furler for the jib and install it this spring. What you lose in sailing characteristics is more than gained with safety, convenience, and flexibility in your day of sailing.

Second, the old adage that if you think its time to reduce sail, it is probably too late. This is especially true for the main sail on a CD 22, as they tend to have a heavy weather helm due to the size of the main. I have a rolling boom reefing system on the main and I find it difficult to use when underway and the wind is rising. Better to have reduced sail at the mooring.

A two point reefing main I think is a better idea. With two points reefed on your main and the rolling reefer reducing the jib to 90% you should be able to handle most conditions.
Jack
oatmealraisin
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Post by oatmealraisin »

Thanks Jack. I have just turned 64 and have not wanted to accept giving up hank-ons. You make sense, as everyone has. The input about the large relative main is well taken. the previous owner replaced the boom with a good non-rolling one, but never used any reefing- he was on a small lake. I think the roller main system would be a real bear to handle- you are out of my league on that. Rats! I may have to be smart and go the jib reefing way. I do have some balance problems from prior over-seas activity.

I am setting up the two deep reefs to be led to the cockpit. Another Cape Dory member helped me with solving that problem. I wish I knew if anyone had any experience with the Alado system- even an opinion from one of the CD skippers would help. I think it should resist twisting, but I have no real CD field knowledge or opinions. The system is solid, I can say that much.

I think I want some kind of color worked into the fore sail. I saw a 22' Catalina almost become broad-sided by a Huge sailboat under power. The Catalina skipper had to douse his 170% immediately, to stop in time- his wife was fast and sure, stopping them within a few feet. As if a flying 170% would not be big enough to be seen- especially by a sailor!

Thanks
Tom CD 22
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Dick Kobayashi
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Right Track

Post by Dick Kobayashi »

Tom,

I think you are on the right track. use the roller reefing system you own and put some reefing points in the main. I have thought long and hard about getting reefing lines fed to the cockpit and have so far rejected them. If you reef when you first think about it - it is a short and easy trip to the mast to reef. And all those other times when you are not reefed or in the process of reefing you don't have those pesky lines underfoot. When I go fwd to reef I do clip on, well usually anyway. Sometimes it takes few minutes - but no matter. So far I have tried to keep things as simple as possible. While Mr. Vigor was eloquent in his explanation of how one reefs a jib. I want no part of this exercise when I can just haul in the furing line and dial down the jib.
Dick K
CD 25D Susan B #104
Mattapoisett, MA

Fleet Captain - Northeast Fleet 2014/2015



Tempus Fugit. And not only that, it goes by fast. (Ron Vacarro 1945 - 1971)
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rtbates
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Post by rtbates »

I'd say what you need is a good roller/reefing genoa, of maybe 120-130% with a foam luff. We have a 130% roller/reefer on a Furlex system on Seraph and we can reef down to less than 100% and still beat to windward.Pull one line from the cockpit to reduce sail area. One sail means no sails stored in lockers or below. No headsail changes. No going forward in a blow. For me it's a no brainer.
Randy 25D Seraph #161
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