Mainsheet System Question

[barfwinkle]

Hi All and Happy Thanksgiving

Well I to think this little upgrade is on the Xmas Boat List.

My main question is: does glueing teak require any special approach due to the "oil" content of the wood? I'll be laminating two pieces to make a new "riser" for the traveller tract to rest on?

Warren et al (those that have already upgraded): I to assume the old track holes are on 4" centers, is the new track from Harken the same? I am not too sure that I need the "sliding" holes on the high track?

Also, (Warrens) were there any surprises beneath the old teak????

I got a price from Riggingonly of $425.00 including "high" track and shipping. After looking for a bit, I dont need the high track (& the adjustable holes), but I dont know if that will affect the price or not. Before doing anything I'll contact Garhauer Marine.

I made this upgrade on my previous boat and although I paid quite a bit (I ordered a "mid range" kit) I loved the new simplicity of operation.....

Fair Winds

[hughesw]

Bill,

The original piece of teak was stuck (bedded?) directly to the deck, and, yes, the holes were on 4" centers. No real surprises; the old bedding compound came off fairly easy with the use of a putty knife and some acetone.

As far as gluing two pieces of teak together, I would imagine that after cleaning the teak with something like acetone to remove the natural oil contacting surfaces, that they could be glued together with epoxy resin. But, skills, knowledge and experience are very limited.

Warren H.

[Dick Kobayashi]

Didn't really need a higher track with Harken gear. Just needed to sand down the teak piece above the instrument panel a hair or two to allow the car to clear - 5 minute job - described elsewhere on this board.

[Sea Hunt Video]

I am looking to replace my mainsheet system (block and tackle) but NOT the traveler. I can only afford to replace the mainsheet and fiddles, etc. My current mainsheet system is a 4:1 purchase with what may well be the original main sheet. It is pretty stiff and worn.

What is recommended as a quality replacement for a Cape Dory 25D

I checked the Garhauer website but could not find mainsheet systems in their catalog. This may well be because I am "computer challenged" at best.

I bought a Garhauer boom vang for my Ty Weekender (S/V Tadpole) and thought it was a very well made product.

The mainsheet system shown in Warren Kaplan's photo looks very nice and is pretty much what I am looking for (without a new traveler).

Thanks in advance for advise and guidance.

P.S. We did the "rydlyme" engine flush the other day. I will post separately on the results after a few days of motoring for a while. It took two (2) full hours to complete the flush.

[mgphl52]

I checked the Garhauer website but could not find mainsheet systems in their catalog. This may well be because I am "computer challenged" at best.

Garhauer doesn't sell them as "mainsheet systems" but as individual blocks. You'll need to select the proper size (load) needed, the purchase and configuration you want and the style. The items are listed various types of "blocks" in the catalog. My best memory is that the 25D uses "fiddle" blocks and one of them has both "becket" & "cam cleat."

I've been off the board for sometime, CONGRATS on your 25D!!!

[Sea Hunt Video]

Hello Toni and Mike:

Good to see you back on the CDSOA board I thought you guys may have "gone off the grid".

I will check the Garhauer website catalog again. As I said in the prior post, what I am really looking for is what I think Warren has on his Cape Dory 27 as shown in the photo he posted.

I did look at Schaefer's website also. They seem to have a good quality set of blocks (possibly with becket and cam cleat ) that may work as well.

Warren, any chance you remember the part numbers or model number for the mainsheet rig you installed on S/V Sine Qua Non

Thank you.

[Dick Kobayashi]

Robert,

Just a heads up - should it be useful. I am still using the original main sheet (very supple now) and gear (blocks, etc.) on my 25D, but is did replace the terrible and non functional traveler system with Harken gear from Rigging Only. This gave me a functional as opposed to non functional traveler system. I don't know your set up but my original gear provides adequate service. Also I have a main sheet in brand new condition. If you have interest I will look up what I paid for it.

[Sea Hunt Video]

Dick:

Thanks.

I am reluctant to replace the traveler for a couple of reasons. First, it is the original factory installed bronze unit. Admittedly, it is cumbersome to adjust but then, given my poor sailing skills, I generally do not make traveler adjustments. I center it and forget it. Probably not very good for sail shape but I am NOT racing.

As for the mainsheet rigging, the current hardware is original equipment and, while serviceable, it is well worn and sometimes difficult to adjust, particularly the cam cleat. Again, given my poor sailing skills, I want a rig that is "easy peasy, weasy".

I looked at several at the Strictly Sail Miami. I like the following Harken set up:

For the lower fiddle with cam cleat that will be attached to the traveler, I am looking at Harken Part No. 1566 (Fiddle/280 Cam-Matic/becket). For the upper fiddle to be attached to the boom, I am looking at Harken Part No. 1559 (Fiddle). This will give me a 4:1 purchase. Maximum line diameter is 9/16". I am thinking of 65'-66' of 3/8" or 7/16" diameter quality mainsheet line. The Cape Dory owner's manual recommends 66' of 7/16" line for the Cape Dory 25D.

Thoughts Recommendations Does Don'ts

Thanks in advance for any and all comments.

[mgphl52]

If you have (and use) a functional boom vang, travelling up or down is not really needed.
How are the Harken blocks different from Garhauer, other than price?

[barfwinkle]

First, it is the original factory installed bronze unit.

WOW, mine was aluminum. Didn't know they made bronze travelers.

Fair winds.

[Sea Hunt Video]

Mike:

I could not seem to find comparable Garhauer blocks. However, once again I must remind folks, I am "computer challenged" at best.

If you know the comparable Garhauer block part numbers, I would probably prefer Garhauer to Harken. I think Garhauer is generall less expensive and very good quality. I bought a boomvang from then for S/V Tadpole and it was of excellent quality and much cheaper than Harken, Schaefer, etc.

Bill:

Reading your email I am now starting to think my traveler may be aluminum not bronze. When I posted I "pictured it in my mind" (always a dangerous place to be ) as bronze. After reading your email I am now picturing it as anodized aluminum. I will be aboard S/V Bali Ha'i today and will look again. I think you are right.

[sharkbait]

Unless I miss my guess you should be able to accomplish what you want with:

One each Garhauer 30-01 and one each Garhauer 30-06

[barfwinkle]

I looked at Rhapsody's setup yesterday & I have matching Ronstan blocks that I bought on sale somewhere. They didn't have model numbers on them or I would have got them for you.

Good luck & Fair Winds.

[Sea Hunt Video]

Bill and ALL:

I am posting this message to yet again reconfirm how truly stupid I am (or can be).

I carefully inspected the traveler. As Bill said it is definitely aluminum, NOT bronze. I was "tricked" into thinking it was bronze because there was a layer of Cetol ( ) or other varnish covering much of the traveler track. It LOOKED bronze, I swear.

That may actually have been part of the "sticking" problem with moving the track car. I removed as much as I could and actually got the track to looky pretty nice.

Bill, thanks. But for your post I probably would not have discovered this for many months - if ever. It is truly sad how dumb I can be about some things.

[tjr818]

If you have (and use) a functional boom vang, travelling up or down is not really needed.
How are the Harken blocks different from Garhauer, other than price?

Is this really true? If it is my budgeting dilemma will be solved. I don't have enough boat dollars for both. So now I am thinking I will just go with a rigid Vang from Garhauer.