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Troy Scott wrote:This is an Excellent Thread. I'm taking 100% credit for having started it
Troy,
I'm learning a lot from this thread too. Many Thanks for starting it!
-michael & Toni CDSOA #789
s/v KAYLA CD28 #318
2012 FLSTC Heritage Classic
Niceville FL +30° 30' 24.60", -86° 26' 32.10"
"Just because it worked, doesn't mean it works." -me
No shirt + No shorts = No problem!
When we get to our boat we simply flip to bank 1 (house) and when we leave we switch it off. It's that simple.
How is this done?
My main question to Maine Sail is how does a trickle solar charger fit into this equation?
TIA & Fair Winds
It simply ties into the house bank with a proper charge controller and fuses. When the engine is off the solar charger will charge the bank. If the solar panel is big enough it will actually power an Echo Charger or an ACR if it can keep the house bank voltage above 13.2 or so to engage the relay. A small trickle panel may not be able to do much more than just top up the house bank..
I have an 80 watt panel on my own boat and would not be without it as it tops up my batts during the week something an alternator can't do..
John D wrote:
"The wiring diagram for the above came to me in a similar fashion as the Flux Capacitor"
Now John, can you tell me one more time where to install the Flux Capacitor? Does it go between the alternator and the main bank, or next to the macerator pump, or just where?
Troy Scott wrote:John D wrote:
"The wiring diagram for the above came to me in a similar fashion as the Flux Capacitor"
Now John, can you tell me one more time where to install the Flux Capacitor? Does it go between the alternator and the main bank, or next to the macerator pump, or just where?
It depends on which version of the turboencabulator you have. If you have the enhanced "B" version you will want it installed as close to macerator as possible. The older "A" version works best when installed between the alternator and the main bank, since it still has the base-plate of prefabulated amulite.
Troy Scott wrote:John D wrote:
"The wiring diagram for the above came to me in a similar fashion as the Flux Capacitor"
Now John, can you tell me one more time where to install the Flux Capacitor? Does it go between the alternator and the main bank, or next to the macerator pump, or just where?
It depends on which version of the turboencabulator you have. If you have the enhanced "B" version you will want it installed as close to macerator as possible. The older "A" version works best when installed between the alternator and the main bank, since it still has the base-plate of prefabulated amulite.
Actually you may want to add the defibulamachinotor to prevent back glaxotimication and forward presorvortisation of the flux capacitor... But don't forget fuses..
Seriously now folks, I definitely see the value in connecting the alternator directly to the main battery bank, and in using the main battery bank for most everything, including engine starting. The backup, emergency (reserve?) battery, fed by an echo charger, also makes sense. In fact, that's what I've decided to do. This is philosophically similar to the idea with which I started this thread, except that we've eliminated the (admittedly questionable) monitoring system and added a reserve battery. If the goal is to keep it simple while protecting me from the possible consequences of dead battery bank(s), then a reserve battery should do a better job than a monitor on a single bank. I'd like for the battery switch to read:
OFF-MAIN-RESERVE.
Now about that Flux Capacitor, I've misplaced mine. I know I had that thing around here somewhere.....
Last edited by Troy Scott on May 8th, '10, 10:35, edited 1 time in total.
So what gauge wire do I use to run from the back of the Alternator to the House battery? I am ready to hook it all up except I want to make sure I have the right gauge. The run is about 6 feet (one way) at 35 amps max. 8 Gauge or will 10 work?
Sorry for the silly questions, but I don't like fires on boats!!!!!
How would a busbar fit into this equation. I have several wires going to the 3/8" post on the house bank (Echo Charger, Solar Panel, Bilge pump etc). Can I just run one wire to a busbar and everything still work OR does the Echo Charger need to be directly attached to the battery?
BTW I love this setup. I have only been using it for a bit over three weeks, but when I get on board everything this topped off (solar Panel) and ready to go. No fuss no muss, on/off and that's it. I love it! After the solar panel, this is probably the best electrical upgrade I have made! Thank you Maine Sail
I'm not sure. My thought is that if all of the wires on the 3/8" post are common to each other, they would also be common on the buss bar.
The use of the bar would alleviate much congestion at the post and also allow lifting one conductor while permitting continuous operation of the system.
I hope that Maine Sail, Ken Coit, Larry De Mers, Bottom Scraper or other learned readers can verify my belief.