Hi Andy,
I really like the barber hauler idea. I've been one to lead spinnacker sheets as far aft as possible. I can get a clear picture of this working.
I've been thinking about twings, because my whisker pole can act like a boom without a vang when I'm wing on wing with the aysm. I've been thinking that a twing would be the remedy for this.
Another situation is that my working jib has flutter in the leech in about the top quarter. I don't want to overdo it with the leechcord. A friend pointed out that if the jib sheet is led a bit further aft, the flutter decreased. (This old sail may be worn out.) This might be a case where leading the sheet further aft and twinging it down might help. The original jib sheet lead is a fairlead dead eye located on the side deck. It has way too much friction, so use a loop of 1/4" spectra, a carabiner, and a climbing snatchblock.
Andy, if you have a comments about about barberhaulers, twings, and sheet leads, I'd be interested to hear them.
Thanks,
Dave
sailmaking and canvas work, day one
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Andy Denmark
- Posts: 630
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 11:38
Twings
Hey Dave,
I think you've grasped the concept I was talking about. I should have used the "twing" reference instead of "Barber hauler. They are one and the same except twings are used on spinnaker sheets and guys. My twings are rigged on both spin sheets and are simply Harken single blocks on the end of a single line (often called a "whip"). The spin sheets are rove through the blocks. I leave them free floating until I need to vary the sheet angle. The running end of the twing runs through a genoa block wherever it might be (depending on which headsail is being used) and the primary jibsheet cleats serve to anchor the end of the twing once it's adjusted.
Sailed with too many folks whose thinking seems to be that the closer to the wind you sail the tighter the foot needs to be. They seem to apply this rationale to jibs, mains and spinnakers with equal fervor resulting in sails overstretched along the foot long before the material has reached the end of its life. A sail with an overstretched foot is probably beyond reasonable repair and will never have a good shape again. You should never have to tighten the foot of any sail to the point where the material folds over itself (except for a flattening reef ).
You might want to replace that bullseye fairlead on the deck with a short length of track with a low friction block so you'd have some means of adjustment. Normally you want to move the lead a bit forward when reaching and aft (to spill wind from the top of the sail) when running or when the wind gets heavy. Can't do either of these with a fixed point lead.
Your friend has the right idea about moving the sheet lead to stop flutter at the top of the leach except he is moving it the wrong direction! If the sail gets too "tubular" with the lead forward then it is probably blown out.
I hope you rethink the 1.5 oz material for the drifter. The .75 oz ripstop is way more strong than you can stress it on a Typhoon Sr.
Hope this is helpful .........
________
HONDA B20A ENGINE HISTORY
I think you've grasped the concept I was talking about. I should have used the "twing" reference instead of "Barber hauler. They are one and the same except twings are used on spinnaker sheets and guys. My twings are rigged on both spin sheets and are simply Harken single blocks on the end of a single line (often called a "whip"). The spin sheets are rove through the blocks. I leave them free floating until I need to vary the sheet angle. The running end of the twing runs through a genoa block wherever it might be (depending on which headsail is being used) and the primary jibsheet cleats serve to anchor the end of the twing once it's adjusted.
Sailed with too many folks whose thinking seems to be that the closer to the wind you sail the tighter the foot needs to be. They seem to apply this rationale to jibs, mains and spinnakers with equal fervor resulting in sails overstretched along the foot long before the material has reached the end of its life. A sail with an overstretched foot is probably beyond reasonable repair and will never have a good shape again. You should never have to tighten the foot of any sail to the point where the material folds over itself (except for a flattening reef ).
You might want to replace that bullseye fairlead on the deck with a short length of track with a low friction block so you'd have some means of adjustment. Normally you want to move the lead a bit forward when reaching and aft (to spill wind from the top of the sail) when running or when the wind gets heavy. Can't do either of these with a fixed point lead.
Your friend has the right idea about moving the sheet lead to stop flutter at the top of the leach except he is moving it the wrong direction! If the sail gets too "tubular" with the lead forward then it is probably blown out.
I hope you rethink the 1.5 oz material for the drifter. The .75 oz ripstop is way more strong than you can stress it on a Typhoon Sr.
Hope this is helpful .........
________
HONDA B20A ENGINE HISTORY