Need some answers

[Dixon Hemphill]

Many thanks to all the sailors who answered almost all of my questions. I will faithfully follow the many suggestions I received and things should be in good shape as soon as I get back to my boat and follow your words of wisdom.

However one question remains: Will Neil Gordon, who like me has a CD28, tell me exactly what model anode I should attach to my prop shaft? Should I buy the the 1" ID zinc anode order #75318 listed in Fisheries for $12.51 or their #05445 limited clearance for $12.49? Fisheries has a much greater selection than WM. The CD28 manual has NO mention at all of zincs that I can find!

Again to all those who responded thanks for your assistance. It's great to have so many of you out there willing and able to help a guy like me with only two year"s ownership of a CD.

[Bob Ohler]

Dixon, it it were me, I would get the limited clearance model to assure that you have adequate water getting to your cutlass bearing. I once saw a boatyard take a regular shaft zinc, and cut it down on a lathe before installing it on a Cape Dory for this very reason. Of course, there is always the end of the shaft thread-on type as well. Fawcett's there in Annapolis has them and they really aren't any more expensive than what you are quoting in your post. I use the thread-on style myself. Just my two cents worth.

Bob O.

[Dean Abramson]

Stan,

I like the zinc doughnuts, for the simplicity, and for the fact that in my experience they stay on better.

On my 25D, I had about a quarter inch of clearance between the zinc and the cutless bearing. I have heard that that is not enough, but given the size of water molecules, it seemed to me it ought to be. And I had no issues from this. My stuffing box dripped normally, not excessively.

I am thinking about the zinc for our current boat. What is a good rule of thumb on the clearance issue? Does the prop turbulence somehow compress air out of the water, and cause air pockets? I would have thought that it is all just water down there, and that the cutless bearing would always be plenty wet. No?

Dean

[Ed Haley]

Dixon:
First of all, I respect your judgment about not wanting to remove the seacock while the boat is in the water. I think just about every sailor has that fear - at least for the first time of doing it. After that, it's cake. It's sort of a "rite of passage" for Cape Dory owners in maintaining their vessels. You should try it but have a buddy handy in case you need to have someone run for a tool.

Taking the seacock apart while the boat is in the water will undeniably get you wet. You might get splashed in the face and get your arms wet. And if you're the slowest person in the world in stopping the water from coming in (say 1 minute) you'll have an astounding 2 gallons of water that accumulated in the bilge. Two gallons! That's all. When the barrel comes out of the receiver of the seacock, just stuff an old towel into the receiver so it plugs up the hole where the water is coming in. Then you can regrease or lap the seacock. Not hard to do but once it's done, you'll do it anytime without hesitation. Once you're practiced at it, you'll only get a pint of water coming in. Just have absorbing towels under your work.

Now, if after trying all the excellent suggestions of loosening the seacock hasn't worked, then try a suggestion that I used once to free up a stubborn one. Tape or hold a small block of ice to the seacock handle. Hold for a couple minutes. Then, using a propane torch, warm all sides evenly of the receiver for about a minute (no more). Then try to turn the handle with your hand. If you have to tap the barrel end, make sure the nut is on the end so you don't harm the threads.

Good luck.

[Dean Abramson]

Sliding a spark plug wrench-socket over the threaded part enables you to tap the barrel without harming the threads.