FeNIX to Male, Maldives

Cruising on your Cape Dory? Let us know your whereabouts and post cruise updates here.

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fenixrises
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Fenix in Seychelles Part III

Post by fenixrises »

Hi all,

Its bunny Monday here in the Seychelles. Lots of church stuff over the weekend and most places closed.

Earlier in the week I moved Fenix about 30' to a mooring. I was amazed by the amount of growth on the anchor chain. For about 25' the chain was 1 1/2" in diameter, covered with slime and barnacles. I hoisted it on deck and let it bake in the sun for a couple days to kill off the growth. Then wire brushed it all off. Those little barnacles can slice your hands like razor blades.

I have decided to head to Mayotte, 12* S 48' X 45* E 10' a small island west of the north end of Madagascar. The French Navy resides there so its pretty civilized, I hear. No charge for clearance but it is expensive in restaurants and such.

Its 800 miles so should be a pretty decent one week passage. Its still a bit early to head too far south. Then its back about 200 miles ESE to Nose Be (Nosy Bay), an island on the NW coast off Madagascar.

This seems to be about the only place recommended for visiting cruisers to stop. Madagascar has a not good reputation except for Nose Be and that can be a bit iffy. But I've not had any real problems so far, so I'm going.

Reprovisioning here in Victoria has been an interesting experience. The grocery stores have a lot of a few things and the inventory is always changing. Different stores seem to specialize in different things but don't bet on it. Therefore I often go to 2 or 3 different places every day just to see what's new. Rather like "What's behind door #2"?

I'm just glad I do not need things for a really long trip. One week is easy and I can live on just about anything from my provisions for that short a span.

There was a two day span with lots of rain here. Generally it is quite pleasant, though if the breeze dies off it gets stifling. The season is slowly changing and it seems windier now most of the time.

The internet connection here is horrible. Quite slow and intermitant, so I haven't tried to upload any videos. I did do a minor update on the passages page and added a notice that Fenix is for sale. But not 'till I get back to the US.

Take care,
Fred
You should always have an odd number of holes in your boat!
Dick Barthel
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Thanks for the update.

Post by Dick Barthel »

Fred,

You continue to inspire with your amazing adventure. Thanks for taking the time to keep us updated.

Good luck on your next leg.

Dick
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Warren Kaplan
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Post by Warren Kaplan »

I always am uplifted when I see you "checking in" on the board. A combination of adventure and travelogue all rolled into one. Quite an adventure at that!!
"I desire no more delight, than to be under sail and gone tonight."
(W. Shakespeare, Merchant of Venice)
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SeaBelle
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Sea Belle
Hail port: Rockland, ME

Another BIG thank you

Post by SeaBelle »

Fred,

I too enjoy your 'letters from afar', especially as a CD28 owner. At times I feel a young boy reading of far off adventures, other times a crew mate, always a mate. Vicarious pleasure jumps off the page. As you bring us with you, remember we are with you in spirit and our best wishes and prayers are always aboard.

You along with other frequent posters are a special breed - friends I've never met. I treasure the true friendship and civility I find here.
Sail on,
Jack
CD28 Sea Belle
Hailport - Rockland, ME

There are old sailors and bold sailors, but there are no old, bold sailors.

Reef early and often. It's easier to shake out a reef when one is bored than it is to tuck one in when one is scared.

When your only tool is a hammer, all your problems look like nails.
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BubbaThePirate
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Three Cheers!

Post by BubbaThePirate »

I second the comments of SeaBelle. As another CD28 owner, I am experiencing the same vicarious thrills. Especially since we'll be on the hard most of the summer.

Todd
~~~~~~~/)~~~~~~~
Eat When You're Hungry
Work When You're Broke
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Member #1005
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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fenixrises
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Fenix in Mayotte a quickie

Post by fenixrises »

Hi all,

I have longer message on my laptop but will need to put it on a CD to copy/paste it here.

To let you know, I got to Mayotte in 10 slow days. Not much wind. A lot of lightening one day and I rescued another boat at the end of the passage.

Mayotte is OK but expensive and still somewhat primitive. No wireless discovered so far. And this connection is a dialup!

More later.

Take care,
Fred
You should always have an odd number of holes in your boat!
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Fenix in Mayotte PartI

Post by fenixrises »

Fenix and I have arrived in Mayotte. This trip had some of the most diverse conditions I have ever experienced. Predominating was light winds but no wind happened a lot also. It took 10 days to make the 800 mile passage.

Late the second afternoon I got so tired of listening to the engine that I just shut it off, the A/P too! There was about a 2 knot breeze, so I loosely lashed the tiller and let the boat drift slowly WSW. Ahhh! peace and quiet and no heat from the motor, though it takes a while for the inside of the boat to cool off. Didn't matter, after dinner I hauled one of the interior cushions into the cockpit and slept beneath the starry sky. Of course the only reason I could do this was because the sea was glassy and almost flat, no more than an 18" swell. It was like being in a protected marina.

With sunrise a light favorable wind came up and we were off sailing again, previous day's run a whopping 37 miles. The wind held for the next few days with the assym and drifter seeing a lot of duty. By Tuesday an ominous sky was building in the east and heading my way. It was only a squall, not a big deal.

As often happens a rainbow appears during these small squalls. This time the one I saw was beautiful and a double. It was over on the north end that was near me. The squall kept coming and I could see the rain splattering off the sea's surface and the rainbow kept right up with it. The wind was up a bit with the squall but not too bad, about 20 knots. The whole thing kept advancing and shazam!! the end of the rainbow passed right over me and Fenix. Now that was exciting and very interesting, but alas, no pot of gold. It must have sunk in the water.

Then I ran into an area with tidal(?) overfalls. But these did not cover the whole area nor last for a couple of hours as I had experienced before. These overfalls would be in an area of only a couple of square miles and start and stop in a very mixed up way. Sometimes we would be bouncing around like crazy then poof, it would stop only to restart a couple of miles later on. Very strange!

By Friday I was seeing a lot of rain storm type clouds. They would build up like Florida afternoon thunder showers. The main difference was a lack of wind. When one of them passed over there would be a period of light to medium rain, no wind increase and after passing the wind would usually drop to zilch.

That Friday afternoon after the passing of one of theses wind swallowers, I put up the assym. It was the only sail that would fly in the very light conditions. I sat reading in the cockpit trying to keep cool. Every once in a while I would glance at the sail. OOOPPPS! Major wrap. I went forward to undo it. Not happening. I did everything I could think of but to no avail. So what would you do? Single handed, light wind, enough swell to roll around a bit(that's what caused the wrap) and no way short of going up the mast(ARRRGH!) to undo the whole mess.

Well for sure I wasn't going up the mast, too much swell. I would have been beat up pretty bad doing that. So, next alternative. Undo the bottom of the headstay, something I've done before. Bring it and the sail aft and unwrap in the lee of the main. At least that was the plan. I got everything ready on deck. Started the motor and headed as down sea as possible. Then went below to gather up needed tools, which also required a shot of lube on a couple of them. Then back on deck. Surprise!! In my absence the Universe smiled on me and unwrapped the mess as pretty as you please. Thank You Very Much.

After that we had a couple of good days of sailing. Even squeeking in one 135 mile day. By late Sunday afternoon things were getting testy again. By now we were just over 100 miles from Mayotte and then the wind swings right around from the SSE to SW-SSW, right on the nose. And it was also dropping at the same time. AAAAAHHHHHHHHHHH!

Earlier in the day I kept hearing a distant rumbling way back to the east. I didn't know what it was, for sure. I couldn't see any evidence of cloud build up but I wondered? With the coming of sunset I had my answer. There were huge thunderheads all over a section of sky that covering about 120 degrees of the horizon, from just W of N to just S of E.

That's what was sucking up the wind from the SW. It was feeding these behemoths. That night I had one long perpetual lightening storm all around me. Not much rain or wind but lightening everywhere. It was absolutely the most lightening I had ever seen in my life. Fortunately only one bolt got anywhere close, you know when the flash and bang are almost together. And this continued throughout the night and into the next morning.

So this huge whatever it was, completely messed up the local winds and it was back to motor time again. I was going to reach Mayotte tomorrow or else. And preferably in the AM so's I could get through the lagoon in daylight with good visibility. But of course the wheather gods wanted to trick me again. Here we are at sunrise, just about 20 mile to go and wham, the wind come up on the nose again! So I'm trying to find the favored tack, my AM arrival is rapidly looking like a PM arrival, but early PM mind you.

As I'm making my final approach, after going through another one of those big cloud, lightening and rain squalls, I turn on the VHF to contact the harbor control. Earlier as I was getting near I saw a boat off to my south. It didn't look like it was going very fast and I thought it was a local sailor just out for a day and taking it easy.

Anyway my call to harbor control was responded to by this other guy. He's speaking in French. And I make out something about motor trouble. By now its a nearing 2PM, he's only about a mile behind me and I'm only about a mile from the first nav bouy, so I turned around and went back to see what was up.

He was dead in the water. There was almost no wind(2-3 knots) and what there was, was from dead ahead, so he couldn't sail at all. We yelled back and forth and set up for a tow, long line. Now you have to understand, this boat was about 37' and there were 5 people aboard. And here's Fenix doing tug work at about 2.2 knots. So off we went. Right in the lagoon entrance a ship was exiting. Upon its return the pilot boat asked if he could assist. We both said sure.

Well there went my tow at 11+ knots. I later talked to JeanPeter and he told me that is the fastest his boat has ever moved through the water. But at least there was still enough daylight to reach my destination. After about 30-40 minutes I looked ahead, sort of SE, and I could have sworn there was my tow adrift again. Sure enough the pilot boat only towed him as far as he was going and not all the way to Dzoudzi Island. What's with that? So I putt-putted up to him again and asked if he wanted to resume the tow. If its OK with you he said. I said sure. So here we were again at 2.2kts covering the final miles.

Thankfully since the French Navy is based on the island there are good nav aids. The long and short of it, I finally dropped the hook at about 10PM that night. My tow anchored behind me. I later found out that as JP's crew released their anchor they forgot to untie the snubbing line on the anchor, so just the rode went over into the water. On of his crew awoke about 3AM and noticed that the boat had drifted 3~4 miles away from me. They then reanchored with no problem. Good thing it is a large lagoon!

The next morning I covered the couple 100 yards to the mooring area on the north side of the island. After getting the boat and myself situated I headed in to shore with my papers. JP was coming in at the same time. He did speak enough English so that we could converse a bit. And it was an advantage to have a French speaker along who had been to Mayotte before. This made check in quick and easy.

Oh yes, the problem. Evidently there was problem with the prop shaft seal and the water was coming in at a furious rate whenever he ran the engine. At first he didn't realize what was happening and he filled the bilges, which drowned all but one small battery. Then he couldn't start the engine at all. Bummer dude.

He was coming from Mozambique, normally about a 3 day passage. But the conditions were like mine. Huge, windless, lightening and rain squalls. When I picked him up they had been out for 10 DAYS!! Mostly drifing along in the various ocean currents, sailing when possible.

Care for a little adventure folks?

Take care,
Fred

P.S. Last night JP, and his wife graciously invited me to their BBQ at the yacht club, as a small thanks for my assitance. He also bought me a full 5 gals of diesel which was quite a reward with diesel about 1.20 euro/litre here.

P.S.S. I have never seen so many Renaults, Puegots and Citroens in one place before. Must be the French thing ;)
You should always have an odd number of holes in your boat!
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Fenix in Mayotte PartII

Post by fenixrises »

Hi all,

Still learning to use a French keyboard!

My time in Mayotte draws to an end. The islands are the typical tropical type. Volcanic with some beaches. The water is warm and clear.

Mayotte like all the French controlled islands are expensive. Even basic food stuff. But it cost nothing for clearance and there are no harbor charges. So that defraws the food costs somewhat. Forget the 3 dollar dinners and diesel is near 2 dollars a liter.

I am still waiting for my new CG document then its off to Nosii Be, Madagascar. That s only about 200 miles away. The US Post office said 6 to 10 day to get here, so far it is 2 weeks and no sign yet.

The locals saw the post to Mayotte is very slow. I hope it is not too long or I will have to extend my visit and that may cost but I do not know for sure.

Enjoy your spring.

Take care,
Fred
You should always have an odd number of holes in your boat!
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fenixrises
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Fenix in Madagascar, Nose Be

Post by fenixrises »

Hi all,

On the day I departed Mayotte, 12*47 S, 45*12 E, I was accompanied by Jean-Pierre and Utopia.
We headed south through the lagoon and out the pass on the southeast side of
the island. There was a good breeze from the S and I was able to make good a
course(100* T) to Nose Be, 13*24 S, 48*17 E, about 200 miles away.

I started out with the full main and drifter but later had to change down to the yankee.
The wind held nicely through the afternoon and evening but by midnight had dropped off
to just about nothing. So it was back to the trusty Volvo. Those conditions held for the
next 18 hours or so until the approach of sundown the next day.

Then of course the clouds built up and the lightening started again with intermitant
light rain.For a while the wind went more east and it was all I could do to make good
a course to the southern pass to Nose Be(Nose=island, Be=big). Eventually the wind died
and the clouds and attending lightening dispersed. Only to leave behind...No Wind Again.

Putt-putting along we made it to Nose Be a bit after noon. About 51 hours for the
200 mile trip. I entered the small bay used as a harbor and dropped the hook in 25'.

As I was preparing the dingy I was besieged by Jimmy. He's one of the "Boat Boys". The
Boat Boys offer everything you might need but mostly agree to watch your dingy for about
one Euro a day. It relly is extortion and the whole motley crew seems to be overseen by
"Toto" the Don of the Boat Boys.

Now a Boat Boy can get your laundry done for 10,000 Ariary(the local currency,
exchange rate about one Euro=2,500 Ariary). But you can go to the laundry lady yourself
and pay only 5,000 Ariary for the same service. This 100% mark up seems to be prevelant.
After the first day I landed in a different place and paid nothing, although one
semi-boat boy wanted some money to watch my dingy, I didn't pay.

When I went ashore to start checking in Toto attached himself to me. He walked around with
me as I went from place to place. After I was all done I went to have a sit down and
a cold drink, Toto of course was still with me. Now I never asked for his assistance
and he never said he wanted any money to "Help" me checking in during this time.
So I bought him a beer and then went back to my dingy after paying Jimmy his fee and then
went to Fenix. More on this whole fiasco later.

I spent a couple of days in Hellville(No joke, the actual town name).
Nose Be is a poor place. Even the main downtown area of Hellville
is rundown and falling apart at the seems. Many of the buildings looked to be built by the
French colonials, pre WWII, and are slowly disintegrating. But food is available and if
you eat with the locals its possible to get a meal for about $3.
If you go to the tourist restaraunts its 2-3 times as much.

I then moved about 4 miles to the west. Crater Bay, 13*24 S, 48*13 E, had numerous boats about, many for
charter operations, usually 40'-50' catamarans. Crater Bay lies at the end of a 1 kilo
dirt road. The dirt road does go to a paved road between Hellville and Dar es Sallam,
a tourist town with many hotels and restaraunts. But remember folks this is real
3rd world stuff.

At the intersection there is a small town with many little eateries and one convienence store.
I made the walk a number of times and also cruised throught the touristy Dar es Sallam.
At the bay end of the dirt road there is a fuel depot and a number of boat haul out facilities.
There is also a good wall to side tie to if you want to dry out your boat between tides.

Mike has a factory for making bricks and concrete block. He also has a large brick house
overlooking the bay. Mike is a 75 year old ex-pat Brit. He stopped in Nose Be 15 years ago and got
stuck. Then he married a local girl and they now have three children, the youngest a 3 year
old girl. At various times Mike also runs a beer bar from his home, one of his many ongoing projects.

I went there one evening with Andrew, a South African who captains one of the charter catamarans.
After months of French speaking countries it was pleasant to spend some time with English.
We were joined by Pierre, a Frenchman, who worked throughout Madagascar building poultry processing
facilities.

Andrew recommended going to Russian Bay, 13*34 S, 48*00.5 E, a short 15 mile hop. Andrew lives in the bay and
often commutes to Crater Bay aboard his old, yellow catamaran. I set sail one morning and
had an easy crossing. I went deep in the bay and anchored in about 30'. The bay is pretty well
protected and has only a few inhabitants. In the area were 3 other boats, moored for long term.
The Nose Be area is another where numerous people leave thier boats while they return to Europe
or travel over to the main island of Madagascar. After a couple of days I returned to Hellville
to stock up on victuals, then returned to Crater Bay.

In Crater Bay I met Napolean, another single hander, aboard a bilge keel Westerly. We spent some
time swapping war stories and discussing where to go next. The decision was Nose Mitsio, 12*54 S, 48*36 E,
about 45 miles NE of Nose Be.

Two days later I set out early in the AM headed that way. It was light going at the begining.
As I headed north the wind slowly swung round to the ESE and increased. By sundown it was 25 kt
and from the east. I was very disappointed because we were only 18 miles away from a nice little,
well protected bay. But any chance of going to that island was gone as Fenix and I spent a miserable
night hove-to and slowly drifting N. I hoped that with sunrise the wind would go light or shift.
No such luck, it continued blowing strong and easterly. So I headed back to Crater Bay. Of course
by the time I was well past the returning halfway point the wind started to drop and by mid afternoon
it was back to zip. Oh well! Dropped the hook again.

After a couple more days passed, I returned to Hellville to provision for the trip south and
to check out. My visa would expire on Sunday and I didn't want to take a chance on the officials
at Nose Be to give me a one day grace period. It seems they get very testy about over staying a visa.
Now of course I could have extended my visa or gotten a 90 day one when I first checked in. But
after months of primative islands and high charges I was ready to return to some sort of civilization.

That's when I had another run in with Toto. As I came ashore he was waiting and fuming. He was very
upset that I didn't pay him for his time. I told him he never asked for anything and never told me
he would charge me for his time. And he stomped around telling me I was a tourist and everybody knew
tourists had to pay for the priviledge of visiting his island. He told me I had no right to land
my dingy where I did, "Its only for Malagashy people, not tourists", although no one ever said a
word to me about using this other place.

So rather than have my dingy destroyed I asked him what he wanted. He demanded 35,000 Ariary, about
$20. So I paid him off and asked him about buying some bottom paint to divert his anger. He said
he could get some and I asked how much. He said 400,000 Ariary. Now I knew from talking to Andrew
in Crater Bay that the paint could be purchased for about 200,000. After Toto left somewhat molified,
I asked Omar, the wanna be boat boy if he could get the paint. He said yes. So I bought it from
his contact for 170,000 Ariary. That's a good deal(about $100) for 20 liters of good Internation Brand
copper anti fouling.

The next day, Thursday I started checking out. I wanted an extra day in case anything happened. Good
thing I did because the office responsible for one step of the clearance misplaced one of my forms
and couldn't find it. I went back Friday and it took until about noon to locate the paper. It was
in that office, just misplaced??? Anyway I then did the next step and got my passport stamped and
my Customs Clearance. After returning to Fenix I wa smuch relieved.

About 9AM the next day I hauled up the anchor and returned to Crater Bay to relax for a day before
leaving. While in Hellville I met, again, another single hander I knew from the Seychelles. Dieter
is a German man who lived for many years in SoCal and had a business there. Dieter is quite an
adventurer. He flew two different private planes around the world and also drove around much of
the world in a caravan. Only thing left now is to sail around, he said. Dieter has a very nice
31' wooden Angelman ketch. He's been out for 5 years. When he left SoCal he had no sailing experience.
Sailing from Ensenada to Acapulco he got into the edge of a hurricane for nearly a week.
For three days he was confined to his bunk with severe sea sickness. But like all good cruisers
he recovered and continued to learn about his boat and sailing. Now he is quite confident in himself
and of his boat. I expect to meet him again, possibly in Cape Town.

Also while in Hellville I met again Miguel, the Spanish single hander I first met in the Maldives
and then again in the Seyschelles. Miguel actually got a job for a day or two at one of the tourist
restaurants as a cook. The palce was owned by a Spaniard from the same home town as Miguel. He
took the job much more for the fun of it than the money and to be around his new found friend.
Miguel came straight to Madagascar from the Seyschelles. While stopping at one small island his 2HP
dingy outboard was stolen, a very common occurance in Madagascar.

Anyway after my day of recovery and preparation I set out for Richard's Bay, South Africa, 28*48 S, 32*05 E
Details in the next post. Also time permiting I will update the website, give it a week or so
before you go looking.

Take care,
Fred
You should always have an odd number of holes in your boat!
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fenixrises
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Fenix in South Africa

Post by fenixrises »

Hi all,

06:30 AM Sunday June 8th, 2008 Up Anchor
Departure from Crater Bay was uneventful. Simply set the main, haul up the anchor, putt-putt out of the bay
with the A/P course set and we're off. Then it's get the anchor on deck and lashed down. I do this
to shift its 15 kgs a bit further aft, anything to reduce pitching. As is typical in the here and now
the wind is almost non-existent. We continue powering until a nice NW breeze fills in about 14:30.

Thru the night the wind shifts around a bit and by the next morning it dies again. I am now motoring
again until the afternoon breeze kicks in from the SW. Late that night I am concerned that I will
not be able to clear Mayotte to the south as the wind continues SW. By sunrise the wind is stronger and it's
time for a reef in the main. I also tack to the south to ensure clearing the southern most fringing reef
of Mayotte. After a couple of hours the wind is up more and going more south so I go back to the port
tack.

That night the wind is really up and wave tops are slopping across the boat from time to time. Sailing
in the tropics is great except when the water is flying around. I like to keep at least one port open,
usually the aft most on the leeward side and crack open the hatch amidships. The stowed, inverted dingy
usually keeps out the spray. But not this night!! It seems my laptop took a drink of saltwater and
no longer functions, bummer dude. Of course I have large scale paper charts for a circumnavigation
aboard. But since I originally planned to go down the east side of Madagascar I did not have this one
chart #701 International series. This chart covers the NE coast of Africa and the part of the
Mozambique channel I am transiting.

Fortunately I have waypoints in the GPS for the channel including the entrance to Richard's Bay.
Unfortunately since the wind has been SW-SSW more than SE I am much further west than planned
and my waypoints down through the channel aren't doing me any good. Fortunately I am checking
in to two radio nets, the South African Ham net and the Peri-Peri net. Allister and Roy are
very helpful and give me a clear lane down south until I get back on my paper charts. Still
it is a bit spooky sailing from 14*S to 19*30S without being able to see where I am on a chart.

For the next week or so the wind continues up and down and from SW to SSE. So I am often reefing
and unreefing and getting as much southing as conditions allow. That is when I'm not motoring.
The following Wednesday, June 18th, just before sunset the sky starts to show a lot of cloud cover
and the wind is really picking up. There is a high pressure front coming from the SE. For the next
18 hours it's really blowing and the seas are building. Before midnight it's 35 knots of wind and
quickly building seas. By the next morning they're up in the 20' range with the wind waves cresting
on top of the swells.

Fenix battles the conditions bravely under just the yankee. While I could have hove-to I wanted
to take advantage of the favorable wind direction to get to Richard's Bay ASAP. Coming down
the eastern African coast can be a real nightmare if one gets caught in a So'wester blowing
against the Mozambique current. Its rather like getting caught in a Nor'easter in the Gulfstream.
Anyway we pounded and slammed our way along. I was mostly holding on and hiding below because
there was spray a flying all over topsides. And it was getting decidedly cooler now that I was
right on the edge of the tropics.

While standing in the companionway looking aft at the huge seas and flying spray I lost my
grip when Fenix was slammed by a cross swell. Crash I went into the starboard q-berth. I stopped
my fall with the small of my back against the trim of the bookshelf. OOOOOOOOOwWWWWWWWW! Said I
and a few more explatives. Had a real sore spot there for the next bunch of days. Now sure enough
by the wee hours of Friday I was back to the engine putt-putting along with no wind!!! Said I
to the weather gods "Why not three days of 12 knot wind rather one day of 35+?" "Ha-ha" said they!

The next couple of days are a repeat of previous conditions, except it is really cooling down,
especially at night. By Sunday night there is a very nice SE wind and Fenix and I a romping along
under main and yankee. Every once in a while we get into the current real good and make up to
9 knots at times. By now it is a race to get into port because the weather forecast is for another
strong So'easter like the last one.

In preparation of the oncoming front the wind shifts around a bit and as usual I am powering
along in a dying breeze that's coming on the nose. It is past sunset as I near the harbor
and I want to enter rather than sit it out with the bad weather coming. Really difficult coming
into an unknown place at night. One advantage is all the lights tell me something is there
but all the lights make it hard to determine which are nav lights. Good thing I have the exact
co-ordinates for the harbor entrance. The entrance is between two stone breakwaters so I do NOT
want to come at them from too far north or south.

To top it off my masthead tri-color decided not to work and my combination bow light didn't
work either. Arghhh! So I slowly approached with the anchor light and fordeck light shining down.
Finally by 19:30, 2 & 1/2 hours after sunset I cleared the entrance and went looking for a place
to tie up. The harbor control sent out the pilot boat to direct me to the inner harbor.

There I tied to the seawall and went looking for something to eat. Strictly speaking that was quite
illegal as I wasn't checked in. But I could expect no officials 'till the AM and I was HUNGRY
for something I didn't have to cook. I found an ATM and an open restaraunt very close by and
indulged, while staggering around with my sailors walk. Then it was back to Fenix and a well
earned sleep in the millpond calmness of the inner harbor.

Take care,
Fred
You should always have an odd number of holes in your boat!
chase
Posts: 532
Joined: Jul 22nd, '05, 22:45
Location: "Cheoah" PSC 34

howdy Fred

Post by chase »

Good to hear your progress, sounds like some serious adventure!

Fred, are you using HAM or SSB? Looked at your site and it shows the picture of the HAM, but curious what your main communication is. Do you use this to report to ShipTrak? Email? Weather? Nets?

There is a local HAM group here and I think I'll get involved with them.

I am real curious about your HAM rig if you get a chance as far as antennae, ground, etc.

Take Care-

Chase
User avatar
fenixrises
Posts: 450
Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 08:01
Location: SunShine S2 11c
Contact:

About ham radio

Post by fenixrises »

Hi Chase,

I have an Icom 718 with a SGC SG-237 auto tuner. This is a ham rig that has an illeagly snipped diode that allows it to transmit on the SSB frequencies. The snipped diode is something that every cruiser I have met with a ham has done. We're badddd!

I bought the radio and tuner on E-Bay for a good price. The diode was already snipped when I bought the radio.

The SA Ham net operates on 14.316 MGz and 7045 MGz, two ham freqs and the Peri-Peri net on 8101 MGz, a SSB freq.

Gordon West, one of the cruising radio gurus, published information about how to make the diode snip on the most common ham radios.

Onboard e-mail and some services can be done through the use of a Pactor modem. Pactor's are expensive(when new) and can sometimes be had through E-Bay(used). It also requires the use of a laptop interfaced with the radio and modem. I do not have a Pactor. Pactor's are proprietary. Although possibly some one will make a plug in card for a laptop that does that same funtion for less than $100. But the receiving stations may be part of the proprietary system. And you must pay an annual fee for your e-mail service.

Through a Pactor you can make your own ShipTrak reports.
I ask the various radio net operators to make the reports for me. This has usually worked quite well.

With software(FREE) you can download weather faxes directly on to your laptop through the radio without a Pactor. There is a tremendous amount of info available by radio directly.
I have the software but have never used the system.

As for weather I usually get that direct from the net operators. On the Pacific Seafarer's net there is usually a weather man monitoring the net. I talked to him directly before the 3 day storm I went through in the Pacific. His forcast was exact.

The Peri-Peri net run by Roy in the afternoons provided excellent weather based on my position.

You can check the internet for information about the various nets operating through out the world. The different cruiser sites provide a wealth of info. ARRL.org is a good starting point for radio info.

Now as for antennas and ground planes. WOW what a loaded subject. If you think cruisiing sailors are opinionated what 'till you talk to radio people about boat antennas and ground planes.

By now you should know that I am for the KISS principle.
My antenna is simply a piece of #12 insulated, standed wire. I hoist it aloft with a small, seperate halyard. Kind of like a flag halyard. It comes to within about 3' of the masthead. I do not know its exact length, the auto tuner takes care of that for me.

To connect it to the tuner I again keep it simple. The tuner is mounted under the cockpit seat as far aft as practicle on the strb side of the boat. I used a short piece of #8 insulated wire from the output to a 1/4 X 20 SS bolt throught the aft deck near the stern rail support base.

The head of the bolt is below deck. The #8 wire is attached under the head of the bolt via a soldered on ring connector and a couple of SS washers. On deck I have a large SS fender washer and a nylok nut to hold the bolt. This leaves the threaded end of the bolt sticking up in the air. To this I attach my #12 wire, again with a soldered on ring connector and flat washers. I tie a loop in the end of the wire and haul it up 'till its tight.

I have used this method on two boats and it works great on each. Of course you must never touch the antenna wire or output stud on the tuner when the radio is transmitting. It will give you one heck of a nasty shock/RF burn. That's RF = radio frequency.

Now for ground planes!!! Much discussion on this.
If possible the simplest and probably best is 4 or more #12 wires mounted under the deck. The lengths should be paired as close as possible to 1/4 wave length of your two or more*, most used frequency ranges.
*More if you can install more that 4 wires, hard to do on a small boat, especially with a molded liner on the underside of the deck.

With a ham that's for sure the 20 meter band(14.000 MGz) and one other. Now 1/4 wave for 20 meters is about 33'. That's impossible on 28' of boat.

An excellent ground plane is the full length aluminum toe rail common on many boats. Or you can use the stantions, lifelines and pulpits. But they MUST NOT be connected to the mast and rigging in any way electrically. And MUST BE well connect electrically to each other and NOT connected to a common bonding system.

Copper foil and/or copper screen mesh is often cited as the primo ground plane. Just try to buy some without a second mortgage. I on the other hand used the more plebian and far more affordable aluminum foil tape made for sealing A/C duct work. NO THIS IS NOT "DUCT TAPE". The aluminum foil tape has adhesive on one side, very handy, and comes in 2" or 3" widths. It is available at Home Depot's everywhere.

I ran the foil tape under the deck outboard of the valence of the headliner. It goes from the ground of the radio to the ground of the tuner, then under the deck and forward to the chain locker on both sides of the boat. For good measure I tied in the stantions and pulpits.

Now you will hear a lot of discussion about "DynaPlates" and tanks and ballast and below the waterline and saltwater and copper foil running everywhere and etc. ad nauseum. I suggest you do extensive research and reading on the subject.

From my own experience my system works very well. It is simple and cost effective. And easy to inspect and has required zero maintenence so far.

There are two things at work in radio communication.
1. Your equipment, especially the antenna.
2. Quality of propagation. This varies constantly and is dependent primarily on sunspot activity.

But the real proof is "Does it work?". In my case I have always been able to communicate with someone. I had a good enough signal in the Pacific to do phone patches through the ham nets. I talked one day to my friend Al Lein using only 10 watts of transmitting power. At the time I was one day from American Samoa, Al was within 300 miles of the California coast. And that my friend is real proof that the system works, depending of course on propagation.

All in all I think a good HF(high frequency) radio is a real asset. Very good radios w/tuners can be had on E-Bay for half or less the price of a new system. And when you're a single hander like me, it sure is nice to be able to talk to another human being in the middle of a 2~3 week passage.

Take care,
Fred
You should always have an odd number of holes in your boat!
chase
Posts: 532
Joined: Jul 22nd, '05, 22:45
Location: "Cheoah" PSC 34

wow-

Post by chase »

That's what I was looking for Fred, thanks a bunch!

Chase
User avatar
fenixrises
Posts: 450
Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 08:01
Location: SunShine S2 11c
Contact:

Fenix in Richard's Bay

Post by fenixrises »

Hi all,

Fenix and I have been in Richard's Bay about one month now. So far the interlude has been quite pleasant. We have been staying at the Zululand Yacht Club. The club is really great with many active members. They have been very friendly and helpful during my stay. I am finding South Africa to be a good bargain. The exchange rate is about 8 Rand to the US$, which really helps as the dollar has been getting hammered lately. My entire stay at the yacht club, about two months worth, includes a temporary membership.

The club also has its own haul out facility which I used for five days to repaint Fenix's bottom and also to check for damage from my coral encounter at Phi Phi Island. Total cost? About what I paid for one month slip rent in SoCal 15 years ago. And the water and electric on the walk-ons(that's South African for a regular slip 'cause you can "Walk Onto" your boat is included.

The club has a good bar and restaraunt, also quite affordable. A bottle of beer is 8 Rand and the four night a week special meal is 30 Rand. That's about US$5 for a drink and eats. Not bad.

I have seen a boat here at the club facilities that I met in Papetee in 1992. Still has the same owners, though I've yet to re-met them as they live ashore. Al evidentially is an avid golfer and fell in love
with the courses here, so he and Katherine decided to stay. About 14 years so far!

What ever you hear about the weather along the east coast of SA is true! SW depressions sneak around the cape and sometimes come roaring up the coast. When they do that they are blowing against the Mozambique current. That sets up conditions very like a NE'er against the Gulf Stream. 35 knots and sometimes much more against a 3~5 knot current can be a real nightmare.

These lows come along about once a week and even here in the marina there is a nasty little wind chop. They often bring a bit of rain with them and usually last about a day. After the wind dies down its possible to hear the surf crashing against the harbor breakwater about a mile away. Now this isn't an occasional wave breaking, its a constant roar until the seas subside. As John Vigor told me and what the locals call them is "Busters". A good word for what happens to things in the way.

Last week there was a sailboat race from Maputo, Mozambique to Durbin, SA. A couple of days after the start a number of boats limped into Richard's Bay. The cause? Well the weather forecast was for about six hours of strong winds...The reality was about a one and half day long Buster. The limpees sported one missing rudder, one missing mast and an assorment of other gear failures and sail blowouts. So the racers got more than they were expecting but not something that's foreign to them.

The yacht club isn't actually in the town of Richard's Bay. It sits a bit off by itself about 12 kilos to the ENE and is much nearer a smaller town called Meerensee. Meerensee is about a 10 mile hike throught the snow...barefoot...and uphill both ways...Well not really. It's 3 miles north and a bit uphill. I usually ride my bike there every 2~3 days to go grocery shopping. There are two of the big chain stores there and a couple of hamburger fast food places and a good pizza place, as well as numerous other small stores.

On my rides to Meerensee I saw a sign along the road that said "Help Keep Our Monkeys Healthy. Do not Feed Them". So I guess that means cheeseburgers, fries and a Coke are out...But wait a minute...that's good food for humans. Right? Why not monkeys. Anyway there're cute little guys, probably about 5~6
pounders. They live in the bush and eat what appears to be some kind of fruit.

Though it is a good deal farther I have ridden to the main shopping area of Richard's Bay numerous times. The Board Walk as it is called is like any other shopping mall you would see stateside. Big and multi- leveled with all manner of places to spend money. Good thing too because I was able to buy a new laptop for about half what my old one cost six years ago. One good thing in life, electronics. Better and cheaper all the time.

One surprising thing. When I hauled Fenix for the new bottom paint. I was sure I'd find some kind of scar from my duel with the reef in Phi Phi. But amazingly nada! I could find no evidence of the encounter. I was impressed. 10,000 lbs at three knots and stopped in about 18" would leave some residue, wouldn't it? Well it didn't. So good old F/G does it again. I also raised the top of the bottom paint about 3". Did this to keep harbor slim at bay, especially back aft under the counter.

Image

One other chore I am in the middle of doing is removing the engine. No problem with it but it was time for some PM. The leaky raw water system caused a bit of rust and I wanted to clean it all up. While doing so I am also rebuilding the water pump. New bushing, shaft and seals. Found a place on the internet that sells the kit for $45. I should have the new water pump parts in another day or so. Then can put it all together and re-install. Also replaced the packing as the new stuff I put in while in the Seychelles was too small and dripped a bit too much for my liking.

I used the mainsheet to pull the engine with the help of another yachtie. We lifted the engine and hauled it aft with an addtional tackle. Then I set it on two wooden slats across the cockpit seats. To put it back I am going to use a different tackle and the main and jib halyard. This should be easier as it will allow the engine to move fore and aft a bit easier. Right now it is just hanging from the boom by the lifting ring. That works very well and allows me to access the complete engine, though I have to restrain it's movement with a couple of additional lines.

Image

BTW it's winter here, that means BRRRRRRRRRRR! I even went to the extent of buying a small electric space heater to keep from freezing my bunnies off. Its been down below 10c(that's 50 F for us Mericans) numerous times and even with three blankies at night that's cold, at least to me.

Plan to be here 'till the end of August then go to Durban for another month. Will have to extend my visa and get new pages added to my passport, all out of blank space now. I'm doing this because it is too early to go much further south, still winter remember.

Will probably do a bit of interior exploration from Durban. I met a couple here visiting the club who live there. And they graciously invited me to look them up when I get to Durban for some local sight-seeing.

Take care,
Fred
You should always have an odd number of holes in your boat!
User avatar
fenixrises
Posts: 450
Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 08:01
Location: SunShine S2 11c
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Fenix in Durban

Post by fenixrises »

Hi all,

Fenix and I had an interesting overnight trip to Durban. I had originally planned to leave Sunday afternoon for the 90 mile passage down south. However the weather, as always, had to be respected.

By Sunday afternoon the wind was blowing quite strong from the SW with every indication of increasing. And increase it did. Through the evening it started howling. 35 knots and gusting to 50?. This was no practice "Buster", it was a full blown, serious Buster. In the wee hours of Monday it poured rain for while. By sunrise it was still strong from the SW but starting to taper off, I hoped.

The good folks at the yacht club allowed me to stay another day for free. Since the weather forecast was looking good(?) for the evening and next day I did my final clearance at about 3 in the afternoon. By 5 PM the wind was down to a whisper but still southerly. I sure hoped the forecast was going to coopereate with me.

I untied the dock lines and headed out to sea. Once outside I headed to my random waypoint. That was about 30 miles south(190*) at the 1,000 meter depth line. The wind by now was a bit E of S and there was just enough to fill the sails. I appreciated this because by keeping the main and yankee filled the boat didn't roll nearly as bad. There was a real sloppy sea just outside the harbor entrance and my 2 month stay in the calm harbor had reduced my normal sea legs to being slightly mushy.

The forecast was for 5kts NW in the evening and changing to 15 K from the NE by morning and increasing to 25 K NE by the afternoon. Just about perfect for the 18 or so hour trip. But OF COURSE the best laid plans often go ary.

Because the wind was so light Fenix and I were under power 'till near midnight. By then the promised NW wind started to fill in very nicely. And it kept filling in...and filling in...and filling in. In a couple of hours I went from the full main and yankee, through one reef, then two reefs, then no main at all. By 3 AM the wind was howling in the rigging. Under just the yankee we were flying along, surfing on the building and now following seas. The wind in fact did go round to the NE. And at a bit more than 25 K. But it was fair and I really didn't want to go foreward and change down to the staysail in the dark moonless night.

By sunrise the wind was tapering off and after breakfast the main came out again. By the time I could see where I thought the harbor entrance should be, boat speed was down to 3 K and the wind was dying off. We entered the harbor at about 12:40 under power again, the wind just about totally gone.

The marina area is easy to find and after tying up the boat I went to start the check-in procedure. The nice lady at the marina office took pity on me and said no rush for anything. Must admit I was looking a bit straggly after being awake all night. I then went to the Point Yacht Club to check in. That way I can avail myself to their facilities during my stay.

Take care,
Fred
You should always have an odd number of holes in your boat!
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