Polishing Stainless / Removing Rust Stains

[George Shaunfield]

I recently bought a tube of Wichinox made by Wichard (whom I think of as a quality manufacturer). Have not used it yet, but it cleans and passivates marine SS. My understanding is that the rust stains appear because the passivation is disappearing.

Maybe someone knowledgeable about metallurgy will enlighten us.

George

[Parfait's Provider]

I have always thought that polishing stainless was a good idea and waxing it bad simply because stainless needs oxygen to maintain its oxide coating. Is this true or am I just living a dream?

[Oswego John]

Hi Ken,

Yes, I do remember someone saying something that SS has to be exposed to oxygen.

And then, on the other hand, how does that apply to submerged prop shafts and rudder posts?

Maybe we should make nice to the metallurgist we had once received advice from.

Whatever,
O J

[Tom in Cambria]

As I recall stainless works underwater because water, after all, is H20 and thus has a lot of oxygen in it. In places like the stuffing box it works because the friction against the shaft polishes it and keeps it shiny. Pure air on the other hand is mainly nitrogen although it does have some oxygen in it, (along with all the other toxic chemicals that rain down upon us and our stainless.)

I experimented on my pulpit with waxing one side and not the other and comparing how well they last. If anything, the waxed side did not last as well as the unwaxed side. What worked the best for me was first getting the rust off with Collinites 1850 Metal Wax. It's not really a wax, just a cleaner, but I think they call it a wax to imply that it's going to protect your stainless (it doesn't.) Then once it's clean of rust. go over it with Wichard stainless polish. This re-passivates the stainless. Where did I learn about the Wichard polish? -- Right here on this wonderful board from John in Florida.

I found the Wichard polish at the local Evil Empire (West Marine to you new to the board) where the prices are the highest anywhere but the selection is fairly good. Instead of it being in the polish section, though, it was in the winch section. I can only assume the dyslexics who work at the Evil Empire thought that "Wichard" looked like "winches" so they put it in with the winches. Actually on a winch is probably where you wouldn't need it since the sheets would keep the winch polished even if it was stainless rather than the usual chrome plated bronze.

[Oswego John]

Hi Tom,

Thanks for your usual logical answer. It all makes sense. Deja Vu tells me that we went through this once before, proving that your young mind and memory is sharper than mine.

How are you doing? Getting any sailing in? Getting ready for the Baja run again? Take care.

Best regards,
O J

[Sea Hunt]

The May 2006 issue of Practical Sailor has a timely article on rust stain removal (particularly from fiberglass/gelcoat).

They recommend Star Brite Rust Stain Remover and FSR Fiberglass Stain Remover. Both use oxalic acid as the active ingredient. This is the same chemical that is the active ingredient in Bar Keepers Friend (BKF). BKF is available in any grocery store, drug store, etc.

Star Brite: 800.327.8583; www.starbrite.com

FSR: 510.732.9229; www.davisnet.com

[Tom in Cambria]

Bar Keepers Friend also works well to clean up those vinyl or rubber fenders, and, of course, it's a miracle at cleaning up those burn marks on the bottoms of your copper bottomed pans.

I just got back from San Diego where they have the ship that was made for the movie Master and Commander available for tours. The 3 hour tour of the U.S.S. Midway is a fascinating not to miss 3 hours also.

[John Sullivan]

The 3M product for fiberglass with which you de-oxidize your hull and deck surfaces is a great polishing agent for the stanchions and other stainless surfaces. It is a very fine (and mild) rubbing compound in a waxing base that takes off the soiled surface material and leaves it shiney. The stainless is largely impervious to the rubbing compound. Try use the "mildly oxidized" version. Works fast and easy and lasts.

[Zeida]

John Sullivan... what is the name of the 3M product you are talking about? Thanks.

Zeida

[Brandon]

Yes Oxalic acid is great. I would use it every so often on my teak decks with a brown doodle pad and let it shine my stainless cleats at the same time. A few other products great for removing rust stains are: Oshpo (for prepping bare metal and etching it to make a better bond for the paint and allowing less space for rust to form, it also works good to remove rust stains. Apply with disposable paint brush, rinse off within 15-20 seconds.

Another good one is wink. Again the key is to rinse off any drips that get onto your paint, IMMEDIATLY. This stuff works good. Also works very well to remove mineral spots from glass. There is a specific process to this though. Anyone interested in how this is done send me a message.

Last, but not least... On & Off. This is powerfull stuff. Pour a very small amout (you wont need much) in a mixing tub. Use paint brust to apply to stainless and rinse off NOW! Not 6 seconds from now, but NOW. And rinse off paint. Rinse everything, even your dog. Now.... don't be scared, just be prepared. Nothing bad will happen if you have plenty of water and rinse, rinse, rinse. Just don't dilute the stuff in your mixing tub by getting your brush soaked with water. It will usally take a couple of times to get all of it off. If you let the chemical sit on the stainless for too long it will etch it. This stuff if actually hull cleaner, and works very well to remove those stubborn yellow stains from your hull (you know, the ones you got because you cruised up the ditch for so long in that mangrove soaked tea water.)

[Brandon]

I forgot something...

my suggestion for waxing stainless would be to use Maguires Colonites Metal wax, then use the Insulator wax they make. This will keep it protected for a longer time. If you apply this insulator wax everytime before a big (multi day) trip and rinse off all salt when you get back you shouldn't have any rust to worry about

[Russell]

I recently bought a tube of Wichinox made by Wichard (whom I think of as a quality manufacturer). Have not used it yet, but it cleans and passivates marine SS. My understanding is that the rust stains appear because the passivation is disappearing.

Maybe someone knowledgeable about metallurgy will enlighten us.

George

Since I am on a french island I thought I would see if I could seek out this Wichinox product today, since Wichard is a french company. Sure enough I found it and bought it, I am sick of the weekly chore of washing rust stains off my stainless (when your boat gets used as much as mine and you do not have access to fresh water to wash salt off, the rust comes back within a week). So I am looking at the directions on the tube and it says to apply it and leave it on for 30min and do not allow it to sit in direct sunlight. Now how does one accomplish that? I am not about to remove all my hardware and do this down below to keep it out of sunlight, and doing this at night definately does not appeal. Do I just need to wait for the right overcast day that I am positive even though its overcast that is not going to rain? What exactly will go wrong if this stuff gets direct sunlight?

Did you go ahead and use this stuff George? I see on the tube you clean/polish after applying, so I guess then no need to polish beforehand? I was going to use this then polish it with 3M polish after, I have always found the 3M polish to work well. I am curious as to your results and what you did if you did indeed already use the stuff. Also anyone else who has used it.

[Zeida]

Hi, Russell... I too just bought a tube of the Wichinox and started thinking the same as you, but it says "direct sunlight"... So I am going to remove all previous rust from all my hardware during the day with the 3M Metal Restorer, which works great, and then, right as the sun starts going down, at about 6 pm our time in Miami, I will apply the Wichinox. I will leave it on for the 30 minutes and then remove it. And hope it does repassivates my stainless. After that, with the Never Dull or the Meguiars polish, things should be easier to upkeep.

[Dick Kobayashi]

Wiping down the SS with a sponge or green scrub pad with a little SoftScrub on it solves the problem in a jiffy. Low effort for good results.