Repairing Teak on CD25

[Ben Coombs]

I will admit that starboard is sturdy and long lived... But I felt that it just looked like dirty plastic after it earned a few scratches. I missed the wood color and texture. And doesn't a Cape Dory deserve teak? I'd hate to know what Hervey Garrett Smith would think of starboard!

Joking aside, starboard did look a bit funny on a sailboat. Either way, if you're sailing it on a sunny day with good wind, you'll likely not be looking at these rails.

Cheers

[gates_cliff]

Agree that a CD deserves teak! And, I do love the look and feel of wood.

[Jdpmus]

Instead of trying to glue the cracks, I took mine off and found a hardwood supply in Dallas that had teak in bulk. The owner, Tom, was gracious enough to suggest that I bring the originals to him to use as a template and he would make duplicates. They look like new and fit perfectly.

I'm always impressed by craftsmen (and women) who use their experience and skill to provide a needed service. They are worth their weight in gold IMHO.

[gates_cliff]

I have a supplier of teak here in Northern VA, Colonial Hardwoods, and they have done a few things for me as well. My problem is I have a stack of teak and need to use it for something! Although, I have to admit, my first inclination is to take the old ones to them, to use as templates, and have them do the milling. I'm sure they'd do a nicer job than I would. If my epoxy fix lasts the summer, I'll have to time to think it over!

[gates_cliff]

Have an additional question on this subject.

Finally decided to try to remove the old teak to take in and have new ones milled. It appears that a previous owner or somebody might have tried the same thing and may have used 5200 to reinstall it. At least that's what it seems. I have a multitool (vibrating saw with an offset blade) that might work.

Anyone have an idea of how to remove without tearing up the fiberglass of the cabin top?

[John Stone]

I see that most of this thread is a couple of years old. So, my experience may be of limited use to you. Anyway, my companionway slides were also shot. I built new ones from teak but added a UHMW insert that I dadoed for the companion way to slide in more easily. As I recall, the UHMW was about $40. I probably have about $250 in the whole project. I have done some reasonably difficult work, but this project was not one of them. It does require a table saw with a dado stack at a minimum. A planer and jointer are helpful but not absolutely required. I used West Systems Gflex epoxy to glue the UHMW to the teak. Without some basic skills, or a friend who has them and will show you how, you may need to have a professional make them. Here is a link to how I made them. http://www.farreachvoyages.com/projects ... ahood.html

If the PO bedded them in 5200 you can use a piano wire, or guitar string to slice through the 5200 by wrapping the wire around dowell rods and sawing back and forth. You can also use a dremel multi max. I have also used a hack saw blade, remove from the hacksaw bade frame of course. I have had good luck with all three. Be very careful about trying to pull the teak up though. You can tear off part of the laminate.

[tjr818]

Have an additional question on this subject.

Finally decided to try to remove the old teak to take in and have new ones milled. It appears that a previous owner or somebody might have tried the same thing and may have used 5200 to reinstall it. At least that's what it seems. I have a multitool (vibrating saw with an offset blade) that might work.

Anyone have an idea of how to remove without tearing up the fiberglass of the cabin top?

Since you do have the Multi-Tool use the offset putty knife blade, It cuts compounds like 5200 very well and does not scratch the fiberglass.

[gates_cliff]

Thanks I'll give it a try. I plan on being back at home this weekend so should have the time to do some work on my boat. Maybe, just maybe get out for a little sail!!!!!

[gates_cliff]

Another thought occurred to me while I'm slaving away at work! Any suggestions on keeping rain water from getting into the cabin if and when I can get the hatch slides off? It will take some time to get new ones milled and reinstalled and since I'm only back a couple of times a month I could see this being a somewhat lengthy project.

Thanks

[M. R. Bober]

Have an additional question on this subject.

Finally decided to try to remove the old teak to take in and have new ones milled. It appears that a previous owner or somebody might have tried the same thing and may have used 5200 to reinstall it. At least that's what it seems. I have a multitool (vibrating saw with an offset blade) that might work.

Anyone have an idea of how to remove without tearing up the fiberglass of the cabin top?

I have used this on 5200 with very good results>>>> http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... ?pid=63969

Good luck.
Mitchell Bober
Sunny Lancaster, (Where somebody's back is keeping him away from the boatyard.) VA