turning old teak into original look
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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rodcapedory
- Posts: 53
- Joined: Feb 12th, '05, 23:53
- Location: capedory 330 Sea Marks, Raritan Yacht Club
turning old teak into original look
Looking for suggestions on how to clean teak that has been allowed to turn gray. What is the least toxic way to do this. Snappy nu was recommended . I am redoing the nonskid this year and am concerned about how any cleaner will impact on the surrounding area of the deck and cockpit.
Re: turning old teak into original look
snappy nu works well, its basicly like liquid sanding. It will affect painted areas, but if your good about cleaning up drips quickly you will be okay. Note you will still have to hand sand after using snappy nu, as it does not leave the wood smooth. If your teak is badly weathered you may have to powersand or even take a planer to it to get it smooth. If your not interested in perfect but just want the color back then snappy nu will work.rodcapedory wrote:Looking for suggestions on how to clean teak that has been allowed to turn gray. What is the least toxic way to do this. Snappy nu was recommended . I am redoing the nonskid this year and am concerned about how any cleaner will impact on the surrounding area of the deck and cockpit.
Russell
s/v (yet to be named) Tayana 42CC
s/v Lady Pauline Cape Dory 36 #117 (for sale)
s/v (yet to be named) Tayana 42CC
s/v Lady Pauline Cape Dory 36 #117 (for sale)
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rodcapedory
- Posts: 53
- Joined: Feb 12th, '05, 23:53
- Location: capedory 330 Sea Marks, Raritan Yacht Club
turning old teak into original look
Russell
Thank you for reply. What steps would you follow to restore teak ?
Is there another way ? Snappy nu was only one suggestion that I found. I would welcome any advice !
Thank you
Rod
Thank you for reply. What steps would you follow to restore teak ?
Is there another way ? Snappy nu was only one suggestion that I found. I would welcome any advice !
Thank you
Rod
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Cathy Monaghan
- Posts: 3502
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 08:17
- Location: 1986 CD32 Realization #3, Rahway, NJ, Raritan Bay -- CDSOA Member since 2000. Greenline 39 Electra
- Contact:
Hi Rod,
You may prefer to use a one-part teak cleaner. They are usually water-based compared to the acid-based 2-part cleaners. The water-based ones aren't as hard on the teak's caulking, paint or gelcoat either. If it's really dirty, you'll need to use a two-part cleaner.
Your boat's exterior teak will probably need to be sanded as well if it has been left to weather over the years and is no longer smooth.
So a thorough cleaning first, followed by sanding (use 80-100 grit sand paper and hand-sand it), then follow that up with teak oil or some sort of sealer (Cetol or Semco) or varnish, or start all over with the "let it weather naturally" process.
Fair winds,
Cathy
CD32 Realization, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan, Bay
You may prefer to use a one-part teak cleaner. They are usually water-based compared to the acid-based 2-part cleaners. The water-based ones aren't as hard on the teak's caulking, paint or gelcoat either. If it's really dirty, you'll need to use a two-part cleaner.
Your boat's exterior teak will probably need to be sanded as well if it has been left to weather over the years and is no longer smooth.
So a thorough cleaning first, followed by sanding (use 80-100 grit sand paper and hand-sand it), then follow that up with teak oil or some sort of sealer (Cetol or Semco) or varnish, or start all over with the "let it weather naturally" process.
Fair winds,
Cathy
CD32 Realization, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan, Bay
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rodcapedory
- Posts: 53
- Joined: Feb 12th, '05, 23:53
- Location: capedory 330 Sea Marks, Raritan Yacht Club
turning old teak into original look
Hi Kathy,
Thanks for the reply. Help me understand how or if you protect the gel coat ? Do you lay down plastic taped under and around teak ? Do you do small areas and then rinse that small area before moving on. Do you wind up with different shades of teak ? If so is that then dealt with in the sanding process ? I'm concerned about how you do the cockpit and protect the non-skid and gel coat. ??
All the best,
Rod
Thanks for the reply. Help me understand how or if you protect the gel coat ? Do you lay down plastic taped under and around teak ? Do you do small areas and then rinse that small area before moving on. Do you wind up with different shades of teak ? If so is that then dealt with in the sanding process ? I'm concerned about how you do the cockpit and protect the non-skid and gel coat. ??
All the best,
Rod
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Cathy Monaghan
- Posts: 3502
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 08:17
- Location: 1986 CD32 Realization #3, Rahway, NJ, Raritan Bay -- CDSOA Member since 2000. Greenline 39 Electra
- Contact:
Hi Rod,
Make sure you're wearing clothing that you don't really care about. You'll be crawling along a wet deck on you hands and knees -- may want to wear knee pads. And don't forget a pair of nitrile gloves.
Set up some scaffolding for work on the sides of the toerail and the rub rail.
You don't need to use tape, just keep the hose handy and use lots of water. Follow the instructions on the label of whichever product you choose. It's really not a difficult process.
If your wood's really dirty, you may have to go through the cleaning process twice.
Good luck with your project,
Cathy
CD32 Realization, #3
Make sure you're wearing clothing that you don't really care about. You'll be crawling along a wet deck on you hands and knees -- may want to wear knee pads. And don't forget a pair of nitrile gloves.
Set up some scaffolding for work on the sides of the toerail and the rub rail.
You don't need to use tape, just keep the hose handy and use lots of water. Follow the instructions on the label of whichever product you choose. It's really not a difficult process.
If your wood's really dirty, you may have to go through the cleaning process twice.
Good luck with your project,
Cathy
CD32 Realization, #3
From DON CASEY, SAILBOAT REFINISHING, page 64, Lightening The Color..."If the scrubbed teak is dark or stained when it dries a cleaner with oxalic acid is required. This is the active ingredient in most single part teak cleaners. It is also the bleaching agent in in AJAX scouring powder. Expert teak cleaner" It worked for me. Wet the surrounding area first.....Chris
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Ray Murray
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Mar 9th, '05, 15:42
- Location: Typhoon 1974, Wonder Why, Hull#685
Teak Cleaning
I've been doing this for many years and this is how I get some very blacken teak back to new. I've had a 1969 CD25 and currently a restored 1974 typhoon.
1... Remove all the teak you can work with it off the boat the effort to remove the teak is far less than trying to get all those spots that aren't easily accessable while on the boat plus it will give you a chance to re-seal the teak when you re-install them.
2... Use an Orbital sander or palm sander to sand the teak start with 80 then 120 then 220 and then 320 (by hand).
3.. Use a 2 step cleaner it's proven and works very well. Keep working it with a bristle brush while evenly applying the cleaner. Apply the cleaner to the brush then brush it on don't apply the cleaner diretly to the teak this may cause uneven results.
Always keep the material wet with a spray not a deluge.
Let the cleaner sit for about 7minutes then wash it off. Now apply the 2nd step the brightner same process (clean you brush first) apply from the brush evenly work it in and let it sit about 5-7 minutes, then wash the entire peice clean, remember don't let the teak dry keep a spray on the wood to keep it moist.
4... Now after it dries it should be clean and a light golden color, sand again using 120 th 220 and 320 (last by hand).
Rember to use a tack rag after you finished sanding.
5... It's your preference what you want to finishi t off with. I use Cetol Light (2 coats) and the Cetol Gloss (3 coats). I do re-coat the gloss in the fall and spring after sanding with 320.
The teak rails can't be removed so the process is the same however when using the cleaners keep the entire boat wet especiall the deck and the side this will pevent streking from the cleaner.
When I'm done my teak is just like new and it has lasted for many years
1... Remove all the teak you can work with it off the boat the effort to remove the teak is far less than trying to get all those spots that aren't easily accessable while on the boat plus it will give you a chance to re-seal the teak when you re-install them.
2... Use an Orbital sander or palm sander to sand the teak start with 80 then 120 then 220 and then 320 (by hand).
3.. Use a 2 step cleaner it's proven and works very well. Keep working it with a bristle brush while evenly applying the cleaner. Apply the cleaner to the brush then brush it on don't apply the cleaner diretly to the teak this may cause uneven results.
Always keep the material wet with a spray not a deluge.
Let the cleaner sit for about 7minutes then wash it off. Now apply the 2nd step the brightner same process (clean you brush first) apply from the brush evenly work it in and let it sit about 5-7 minutes, then wash the entire peice clean, remember don't let the teak dry keep a spray on the wood to keep it moist.
4... Now after it dries it should be clean and a light golden color, sand again using 120 th 220 and 320 (last by hand).
Rember to use a tack rag after you finished sanding.
5... It's your preference what you want to finishi t off with. I use Cetol Light (2 coats) and the Cetol Gloss (3 coats). I do re-coat the gloss in the fall and spring after sanding with 320.
The teak rails can't be removed so the process is the same however when using the cleaners keep the entire boat wet especiall the deck and the side this will pevent streking from the cleaner.
When I'm done my teak is just like new and it has lasted for many years
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Tommy Wade
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Jan 6th, '07, 17:33
- Location: CD28 Hull # 346 "Intrepid"
Old teak 2 new
This is the way I do it.
First scrub all of the grime off with a scotch brite pad and some soapy water. Sea Safe works just fine. You will be suprised how much of the natural color this will restore. Then hit it with an electric hand sander. This method will restore it without using all those harsh chemicals. When you are satisfied with the condition of the teak, use your favorite dressing to finish it off. I prefer CETOL. I am currently restoring a CD28.
Tommy
First scrub all of the grime off with a scotch brite pad and some soapy water. Sea Safe works just fine. You will be suprised how much of the natural color this will restore. Then hit it with an electric hand sander. This method will restore it without using all those harsh chemicals. When you are satisfied with the condition of the teak, use your favorite dressing to finish it off. I prefer CETOL. I am currently restoring a CD28.
Tommy
One other thing
Rod
Your first post indicated you are doing deck work, the nonskid. I would suggest that you do the teak first, if you are going to do it in place. This way any cleaners will not harm fresh paint. Most of the cleaners, including Soft Scrub with bleach will have an affect on fresh paint. Try to avoid using them until the paint has cured for a season and then keep the painted surfaces wet while you are using a cleaner. Gel coat doesn't have much of a problem, but Briteside and other paints can be bleached out a bit. I try to avoid bleaches in areas near paint. Been there, had that problem.
Your first post indicated you are doing deck work, the nonskid. I would suggest that you do the teak first, if you are going to do it in place. This way any cleaners will not harm fresh paint. Most of the cleaners, including Soft Scrub with bleach will have an affect on fresh paint. Try to avoid using them until the paint has cured for a season and then keep the painted surfaces wet while you are using a cleaner. Gel coat doesn't have much of a problem, but Briteside and other paints can be bleached out a bit. I try to avoid bleaches in areas near paint. Been there, had that problem.
Jim Davis
S/V Isa Lei
S/V Isa Lei