Despite added spring lines, Floyd did some damage to my CD 27.
After the storm cleared, the NW winds roiled up my marina and chafed one of my dockline. Fortunately, I had doubled the line, and although the second one held, but it stretched enough to allow contact with a piling.
About a 12" piece of the rub rail has been sheared off (the boat landed on top of a piece of the dock, so it received vertical trauma, not horizonal impact) in the vicinity of the starboard winch. The underlying hull deck joint and hull laminate is fine.
Anyone ever replace a section of the rail?
I'm looking for hints on where to buy the teak wood, getting it cut to size, and how to impart the subtle curve of the shear.
Thanks in advance,
Jeff
jschmoye@pepsi.com
Rub Rail Repair - Hints?
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Duncan Maio
Re: Rub Rail Repair - Hints?
Jeff:
I had a similar repair done to my CD27 last spring; in my case, we replaced the forward 16' of rub rail from the scarf joint forward. If your damage is near the winch, you should be able to replace the shorter section (or just a 3' - 4' piece).
Where are you located? In New England, the best sources are Allied Plywood and St. Angelo Hardwoods (Steve St. Angelo has the cutters for all the CD moldings).
I found that after 22 years of sanding, the original shape was not really relevant, but a 1" x 1" profile with two rounded edges is about right. Bending the curve is not a problem - just screw it into the hull.
If you are in the Boston area, I can have one of my cabinetmakers do the work for you.
Duncan Maio
s/v Remedy
CD27 #37
Bristol, RI
dmaio@meganet.net
I had a similar repair done to my CD27 last spring; in my case, we replaced the forward 16' of rub rail from the scarf joint forward. If your damage is near the winch, you should be able to replace the shorter section (or just a 3' - 4' piece).
Where are you located? In New England, the best sources are Allied Plywood and St. Angelo Hardwoods (Steve St. Angelo has the cutters for all the CD moldings).
I found that after 22 years of sanding, the original shape was not really relevant, but a 1" x 1" profile with two rounded edges is about right. Bending the curve is not a problem - just screw it into the hull.
If you are in the Boston area, I can have one of my cabinetmakers do the work for you.
Duncan Maio
s/v Remedy
CD27 #37
Bristol, RI
dmaio@meganet.net
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Larry DeMers
Re: Rub Rail Repair - Hints?
I lost about 7 ft. of teak rub railing last summer..oddly enough, with another Cape Dory 30 while we were rafted together. A large excursion boat came by, made some 6-7 ft. waves while making a 45 degree arc around us. I tried to follow the waves with our engine, but could not protect against all of the waves..and we got out of sync in our bobbing up and down..smash, and there goes the rub rail.
So..what to do: I bought a 1x6x36 in. teak board from Defender (~$35.00), took the old railing and set my table saw to the same angles that the rub rail is at. This was easy to do. Then I cut the 1x6 to the measured thickness plus a skosh for sanding and shaping. At this point, both sides wil have the right angle cut into it. Now you have to decide how long to make the piece. You will need to scarf this piece into the existing rubrail, to make the whole rail look good and as originally supplied. Once the marks are made on both the fixed pieces and the replacement piece, then you will make the scarf joint. CD uses a scarf with a stepped flat section in it. For simplicity sake, I skipped this complication, and made a straight 60 deg. scarf cut in both ends of the new wood, then transfered the lines to the old rail, and cut very carefully here. It pays to measure at least a couple (dozen) times, and check and recheck the fit at both ends etc. There is a camber to the wood also, and you may be at the flatter area where you can just attach one end of the new rail, and gradually bend the new piece to mate with the old. I could not do this, so I made the curved section on the underside of the teak first, by scribing a line onto the new teak that perfectly emulated the hull curvature, using a compass with pencil. This was sanded smooth and to a good finish, then the wood was shaped on the table saw. You will not have to do this step I bet, due to the smaller amount of rail needed.
I used resorcinol glue (it's good and waterproof, but does leave a tell-tale purple glue line behind). Perhaps I should have used epoxy to glue the whole thing together. I used Sikaflex as a bedding agent, and screw hole sealer.
Write me directly if you have more questions..
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
demers@sgi.com
So..what to do: I bought a 1x6x36 in. teak board from Defender (~$35.00), took the old railing and set my table saw to the same angles that the rub rail is at. This was easy to do. Then I cut the 1x6 to the measured thickness plus a skosh for sanding and shaping. At this point, both sides wil have the right angle cut into it. Now you have to decide how long to make the piece. You will need to scarf this piece into the existing rubrail, to make the whole rail look good and as originally supplied. Once the marks are made on both the fixed pieces and the replacement piece, then you will make the scarf joint. CD uses a scarf with a stepped flat section in it. For simplicity sake, I skipped this complication, and made a straight 60 deg. scarf cut in both ends of the new wood, then transfered the lines to the old rail, and cut very carefully here. It pays to measure at least a couple (dozen) times, and check and recheck the fit at both ends etc. There is a camber to the wood also, and you may be at the flatter area where you can just attach one end of the new rail, and gradually bend the new piece to mate with the old. I could not do this, so I made the curved section on the underside of the teak first, by scribing a line onto the new teak that perfectly emulated the hull curvature, using a compass with pencil. This was sanded smooth and to a good finish, then the wood was shaped on the table saw. You will not have to do this step I bet, due to the smaller amount of rail needed.
I used resorcinol glue (it's good and waterproof, but does leave a tell-tale purple glue line behind). Perhaps I should have used epoxy to glue the whole thing together. I used Sikaflex as a bedding agent, and screw hole sealer.
Write me directly if you have more questions..
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
Despite added spring lines, Floyd did some damage to my CD 27.
After the storm cleared, the NW winds roiled up my marina and chafed one of my dockline. Fortunately, I had doubled the line, and although the second one held, but it stretched enough to allow contact with a piling.
About a 12" piece of the rub rail has been sheared off (the boat landed on top of a piece of the dock, so it received vertical trauma, not horizonal impact) in the vicinity of the starboard winch. The underlying hull deck joint and hull laminate is fine.
Anyone ever replace a section of the rail?
I'm looking for hints on where to buy the teak wood, getting it cut to size, and how to impart the subtle curve of the shear.
Thanks in advance,
Jeff
demers@sgi.com
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Jeff Schmoyer
Re: Rub Rail Repair - Hints?
Thanks for the great feedback Larry and Duncan. Actually I forgot that that there is curvature in all three dimensions on that piece of wood.
I'm going to remove the afflicted section this weekend and take a closer look- I believe it is only in the shorter section by the stern quarters.
If it looks like I have to replace this entire section, or scarf in a repair that is too long to just bend and sand into shape, I think I'll have to seek out a professional woodworker as Duncan suggested.
Thanks for the offer Duncan, but I'm in New York city area, so it's a bit of a haul.
Sad times are these!
Jeff
Jeff
Jeff
jschmoye@pepsi.com
I'm going to remove the afflicted section this weekend and take a closer look- I believe it is only in the shorter section by the stern quarters.
If it looks like I have to replace this entire section, or scarf in a repair that is too long to just bend and sand into shape, I think I'll have to seek out a professional woodworker as Duncan suggested.
Thanks for the offer Duncan, but I'm in New York city area, so it's a bit of a haul.
Sad times are these!
Jeff
Jeff
Jeff
jschmoye@pepsi.com
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Patrick Meyer
Re: Rub Rail Repair - Hints?
PatrickJeff, I can sympathize with your situation. I was rafted up in my 75 CD25 with a friend who has a 66 Seafarer 22, and a power boat created such a wake that caused the Seafarer to rock up against my CD25. The starboard rub rail took the first two hits astonishingly well, but the third upward "punch" under the rub rail splintered the wood and detached it from the laminate. I have about an 18" section to repair this winter. Your posting (and all the great replies) have given me hope!! Sorry to hear of your experience. I hope your repair goes well......as does mine.
Despite added spring lines, Floyd did some damage to my CD 27.
After the storm cleared, the NW winds roiled up my marina and chafed one of my dockline. Fortunately, I had doubled the line, and although the second one held, but it stretched enough to allow contact with a piling.
About a 12" piece of the rub rail has been sheared off (the boat landed on top of a piece of the dock, so it received vertical trauma, not horizonal impact) in the vicinity of the starboard winch. The underlying hull deck joint and hull laminate is fine.
Anyone ever replace a section of the rail?
I'm looking for hints on where to buy the teak wood, getting it cut to size, and how to impart the subtle curve of the shear.
Thanks in advance,
Jeff
Patrick_Meyer@vanguard.com