Spartan Seacock-Help Please

[Richard Feffer]

It is necessary for me to remove the seacock under the galley sink. (Need to replace it with special through hull from Isotherm for refrig cooling.) The base of the seacock has two bolts with nuts and washers holding it down. I see no evidence of the heads of these bolts outside the hull. Could they be imbedded in the fibreglass or maybe just covered by paint? Are they all that hold the through hull in place? Or does the through hull screw into the seacock?
I imagine the yard that will replace the fitting for me will know, but I'd like to find out myself before I arrange to haul the boat.
Thanks, Richard



RichFef@Prodigy.net

[TWM]

Yes is the answer to both questions. Most of the Spartan through-hulls have both a pair of bolts w/ nuts as well as a large nut which tightens to the threaded through-hull itself. If you poke around the opening outside, adjacent to the through-hull you'll find both screw heads. The ones I've worked on were simple single slotted screws. You'll also have to unscrew the main nut (inside) on the stem of the thr through-hull fitting.

Why are you removing this through-hull anyway?? Generally they're well imbedded in place. Can't you attach you fitting using a "T"? Don't forget, you want the seacock immediately adjacent to the through-hull so you can shut off the outside ocean in case of problems.

TWM

It is necessary for me to remove the seacock under the galley sink. (Need to replace it with special through hull from Isotherm for refrig cooling.) The base of the seacock has two bolts with nuts and washers holding it down. I see no evidence of the heads of these bolts outside the hull. Could they be imbedded in the fibreglass or maybe just covered by paint? Are they all that hold the through hull in place? Or does the through hull screw into the seacock?
I imagine the yard that will replace the fitting for me will know, but I'd like to find out myself before I arrange to haul the boat.
Thanks, Richard

tommor@toad.net

[Rich]

Thanks for your reply. There are no visible threads on the seacock inside of hull where you would expect them to be. And no nut screwed onto the through hull. The seacock is molded with a flanged base through which the bolts come through from the outside. That's why I'm unsure of how it comes apart from the through hull. I'm wondering if the seacock has internal threads?

Yes is the answer to both questions. Most of the Spartan through-hulls have both a pair of bolts w/ nuts as well as a large nut which tightens to the threaded through-hull itself. If you poke around the opening outside, adjacent to the through-hull you'll find both screw heads. The ones I've worked on were simple single slotted screws. You'll also have to unscrew the main nut (inside) on the stem of the thr through-hull fitting.

Why are you removing this through-hull anyway?? Generally they're well imbedded in place. Can't you attach you fitting using a "T"? Don't forget, you want the seacock immediately adjacent to the through-hull so you can shut off the outside ocean in case of problems.

TWM

It is necessary for me to remove the seacock under the galley sink. (Need to replace it with special through hull from Isotherm for refrig cooling.) The base of the seacock has two bolts with nuts and washers holding it down. I see no evidence of the heads of these bolts outside the hull. Could they be imbedded in the fibreglass or maybe just covered by paint? Are they all that hold the through hull in place? Or does the through hull screw into the seacock?
I imagine the yard that will replace the fitting for me will know, but I'd like to find out myself before I arrange to haul the boat.
Thanks, Richard

RichFef@Prodigy.net

[Jerry Hammernik]

It is necessary for me to remove the seacock under the galley sink. (Need to replace it with special through hull from Isotherm for refrig cooling.) The base of the seacock has two bolts with nuts and washers holding it down. I see no evidence of the heads of these bolts outside the hull. Could they be imbedded in the fibreglass or maybe just covered by paint? Are they all that hold the through hull in place? Or does the through hull screw into the seacock?
I imagine the yard that will replace the fitting for me will know, but I'd like to find out myself before I arrange to haul the boat.
Thanks, Richard

Richard, I rebedded all the thru hulls on my CD28 this spring. The thru hull does get turned into the seacock. The seacock has internal threads. The bolts for the seacock may or may not be covered by the thru hull. Once the thru hull is out you can find them by scraping paint if they are not readily visible. I replaced all the bronze bolts, nuts, and washers on mine. If you want to save the bolts to reuse be sure to turn them to break the seal with the caulk. If you don't do that and try to drive the bolts out they will bend. Obviously the thru hull should only be removed or put back in when the seacock is bolted into place, or it will turn. If I can provide any more info please let me know.
Jerry Hammernik
CD28 Lion's Paw



dauntles@execpc.com

[John]

Thanks for your reply. There are no visible threads on the seacock inside of hull where you would expect them to be. And no nut screwed onto the through hull. The seacock is molded with a flanged base through which the bolts come through from the outside. That's why I'm unsure of how it comes apart from the through hull. I'm wondering if the seacock has internal threads?

Yes is the answer to both questions. Most of the Spartan through-hulls have both a pair of bolts w/ nuts as well as a large nut which tightens to the threaded through-hull itself. If you poke around the opening outside, adjacent to the through-hull you'll find both screw heads. The ones I've worked on were simple single slotted screws. You'll also have to unscrew the main nut (inside) on the stem of the thr through-hull fitting.

Why are you removing this through-hull anyway?? Generally they're well imbedded in place. Can't you attach you fitting using a "T"? Don't forget, you want the seacock immediately adjacent to the through-hull so you can shut off the outside ocean in case of problems.

TWM

It is necessary for me to remove the seacock under the galley sink. (Need to replace it with special through hull from Isotherm for refrig cooling.) The base of the seacock has two bolts with nuts and washers holding it down. I see no evidence of the heads of these bolts outside the hull. Could they be imbedded in the fibreglass or maybe just covered by paint? Are they all that hold the through hull in place? Or does the through hull screw into the seacock?
I imagine the yard that will replace the fitting for me will know, but I'd like to find out myself before I arrange to haul the boat.
Thanks, Richard

Apparenty you have a standard seacock since the seacock you describe has a flange with two bolts sticking through the flange with washers and hex nuts in place. The thru-hull would be screwed into the internal body of the seacock. The seacock itself is usually mounted on a reinforcing block and bolted through the hull. The thru-hull is then screwed into the seacock from the outside facilitated by engaging the two small nibs that are usually present on the inside wall of the thru-hull with a tool. You can buy a special stepped wrench that fits into various sized thru-hulls and engages the nibs and makes the installation and removal of a thru-hull a breeze. You can still use jury rigged tools to install and remove them but it's an exercise in frustration, and difficult to set them tight. Some people have 1/4" steel flat stock machined to fit up inside snuggly and then clamp onto the steel protruding from the thru-hull with a pair of vise grips. Call it a poor man's wrench for lack of a better decription. The stepped wrench is the way to go because it fits various diameter thru-hulls, multiple tools in one.

The seacock bolt heads are probably flat or oval heads and they are countersunk and more than likely covered by multiple coats of bottom paint. Scrape around and you will locate them. Remember you must clean off all old caulking from all parts and rebed each part with liberal caulking including the bolt heads. Don't use polyurethane based caulks. You need to make sure all the parts are servicable in the future. Use polysulfide caulk (Boatlife "Lifecaulk") for thru-hulls, backing blocks and seacocks.

Whats so special about the thru-hull from Isotherm that necessitates you remove your existing thru-hull assembly?

[Larry DeMers]

Richard,

I am going to be installing this same Isotherm Refrigeration unit myself..next spring. I like that idea of using the coil in the seacock to act as the heat exchanger. There seems to be plenty of water exchange going on..I tested this concept and found that sitting at anchor for instance there was nearly a 6 inch rise and fall of water in the galley sink hose. I sure would be interested in knowing how this addition works out for you, where you ended up putting it, how much room is left in the ice box/regrig. after the goodies are mounted etc. Especially how you like the installation. When will you have it installed? Could you post a review of the project when done please?

Thanks,

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer

It is necessary for me to remove the seacock under the galley sink. (Need to replace it with special through hull from Isotherm for refrig cooling.) The base of the seacock has two bolts with nuts and washers holding it down. I see no evidence of the heads of these bolts outside the hull. Could they be imbedded in the fibreglass or maybe just covered by paint? Are they all that hold the through hull in place? Or does the through hull screw into the seacock?
I imagine the yard that will replace the fitting for me will know, but I'd like to find out myself before I arrange to haul the boat.
Thanks, Richard

demers@sgi.com

[Richard Feffer]

John,
Thanks again for your reply. I now completely understand how the assembly goes together.
The reason for changing the seacock is: The fitting from Isotherm has a coil within. The two tubes which exit from the fitting are connected to the refrig compressor and the holding plate inside the box. The coil has sea water circulating around it and cools the refrigerant which is circulating through it from the compressor. In effect the Isotherm fitting acts as a heat exchanger. Hope this explanation answers your question. I'm looking forward to completing the installation. It looks like a nicely designed system. It is manufactured in Sweden and is available locally from Defender. You might want to check out Isotherm.com or Great-Water.com (USA distributer.) Also look in Cruising World mag. They have an ad this month.
Regards, Richard



RichFef@Prodigy.net

[Richard Feffer]

Jerry,
Thanks for your reply. I now understand the assembly. I'm installing an Isotherm refrig system. Will post some info when it's up and running.
How did you remove your seacocks? Did you remove the bolts and then unscrew the seacock? Or did you leave the bolts in place and unscrew the through hull? I'm told that Cape Dory used 5200 to seal the fittings. And that may be a problem.
Regards, Richard



RichFef@Prodigy.net

[Richard Feffer]

Larry,
Thanks for your reply. I made arrangements today to have the boat hauled to install the through-hull. Once that is done, I'll mount the compressor and holding plate. There appears to be plenty of room for the compressor under the sink. Mark from Great Water recommends insulating the box with Dow Blue Board which I'm in the process of doing (inside the box.) This will reduce the size of the box somewhat, but I feel it will still be adequate for my needs. Blue Board will then be covered by molded fibreglass panels or maybe Formica. I'll keep you posted.
Incidentally, did you purchase your unit yet? I just got mine from Defender at considerably less than the $1585 which I saw advertised. Now might be a good time to buy! Boat show discount, etc.
Did you add any insulation to your box?
What size CD do you sail and where?
Regards, Richard
S/V Adamarie
CD30MKII




RichFef@Prodigy.net

[Jerry Hammernik]

Jerry,
Thanks for your reply. I now understand the assembly. I'm installing an Isotherm refrig system. Will post some info when it's up and running.
How did you remove your seacocks? Did you remove the bolts and then unscrew the seacock? Or did you leave the bolts in place and unscrew the through hull? I'm told that Cape Dory used 5200 to seal the fittings. And that may be a problem.
Regards, Richard

Richard, I removed the thru hulls first. The bolts keep the seacock from turning while you remove the thru hull. As an earlier post said you need a stepped wrench or some sort of pseudo wrench that will fit snugly between the two raised areas inside the thru hull. 5200 is a bad idea for this application. Mine wasn't done with 5200. I doublt that Cape Dory would use it here, but you never know about a previous owner or yard worker. Good Luck.
Jerry Hammernik
CD28 #341 Lion's Paw



dauntles@execpc.com