This is my first year with a 25D. Need hints and info re winterizing the boat and motor. Is there a way to cover the boat inexpensively and also protectively, e.g., taup etc.?
ASOUZA@EROLS.com
Winterizing 25D
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Neil Gordon
Re: Winterizing 25D
>>Need hints and info re winterizing the boat and motor.<<
Pump out the water tank and put non toxic antifreeze in. Pump it through the hoses. Clean the head/tank, pump out and pump antifreeze through the head and hoses. Open the seacocks so that water drains out. Pump the bilge dry and pump antifreeze through the bilge pumps. Extra antifreeze in the bilge will keep water that gets in over the winter from freezing.
I have a mechanic service the motor, but it's change the oil and filters and run antifreeze through the cooling system to replace the water.
>>Is there a way to cover the boat inexpensively and also protectively, ...<<
No. <g> The blue tarps I've used don't last the winter. Heavier canvas is expensive but might be a good investment. I shrink wrapped LIQUIDITY last year for around $10/foot, I think.
Where are you sailing? Unless you're north of the arctic circle, why are you winterizing in September? <g>
Regards, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167
neil@nrgordon.com
Pump out the water tank and put non toxic antifreeze in. Pump it through the hoses. Clean the head/tank, pump out and pump antifreeze through the head and hoses. Open the seacocks so that water drains out. Pump the bilge dry and pump antifreeze through the bilge pumps. Extra antifreeze in the bilge will keep water that gets in over the winter from freezing.
I have a mechanic service the motor, but it's change the oil and filters and run antifreeze through the cooling system to replace the water.
>>Is there a way to cover the boat inexpensively and also protectively, ...<<
No. <g> The blue tarps I've used don't last the winter. Heavier canvas is expensive but might be a good investment. I shrink wrapped LIQUIDITY last year for around $10/foot, I think.
Where are you sailing? Unless you're north of the arctic circle, why are you winterizing in September? <g>
Regards, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167
neil@nrgordon.com
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Mike Everett
Re: Winterizing 25D
Captain Cheapskate here.
This is a follow-up comment on the boat cover.
There are different grades of plastic tarps, the blue ones being the cheapest, the white ones the most durable.
Last fall I spent a day building a cover frame of sheetrock strapping and 2x4s for our CD28, and then labelled the pieces for annual use. It'll take maybe a couple of hours to reassemble it this year.
It takes a bit of extra time to do your own frame, but you save a couple of hundred bucks annually (compared to paying the boatyard) if you do.
Mike Everett
s/v Dr. Pepper
everett@megalink.net
This is a follow-up comment on the boat cover.
There are different grades of plastic tarps, the blue ones being the cheapest, the white ones the most durable.
Last fall I spent a day building a cover frame of sheetrock strapping and 2x4s for our CD28, and then labelled the pieces for annual use. It'll take maybe a couple of hours to reassemble it this year.
It takes a bit of extra time to do your own frame, but you save a couple of hundred bucks annually (compared to paying the boatyard) if you do.
Mike Everett
s/v Dr. Pepper
everett@megalink.net
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Dean Abramson
Re: Winterizing 25D
Al,
I've had my 25D for 6-7 years. In the Fall, after removing the engine thermostat (to make sure the coolant goes eveywhere it's supposed to, since the engine is not up to temperature), I close the cooling intake seacock, then disconnect the cooling water hose from the seacock, and stick it in a bottle of non-toxic anti-freeze, run the engine until it sucks up a gallon, then quickly stick the hose in another gallon bottle. Two gallons total. I've heard that the anti-freeze should contain rust inhibitors, but I figure the regular stuff can't be any worse than the salt water that lives in there during the season. Then I replace the thermostat, then change the engine oil and filter, so it spends the winter with fresh oil. Now is a good time to check the water pump impeller (a little coolant will run out, no problem), and most folks say leave it out for the winter, some say in olive oil or something. If there are cracks in the impeller, replace it. (Always keep some spares of this; I once went quickly through a series of bum ones; but my current one is several years old and going strong.) By the way, in my opinion, the BEST money you can spend on this boat is to buy a Speedseal cover for the water pump. It is really a bitch to change/check the impeller otherwise.
After pumping out the holding tank, I pour a bottle of non-tox down the head, and pump it down. Then I pump the sinks in the head and galley until all of the fresh water is out, pour a gallon of non-tox into the water tank, then pump each faucet until a little non-tox comes out. Treat the bilge and pumps as Neil described.
I leave my mast at the boat yard, but the boat gets trucked to my house where I assemble a wood support for the tarp. It's made of 5 2x4 A-frames which run athwartship, connected by el cheapo 1x3 runners, and a 2x4 ridge. All the pieces are number/letter coded, so it is easy to reassemble each year. No bolts or screws, just hammer it together, hammer it apart. The A-frames are substantial, and each of them stays intact. Now and then I have to replace a runner, when it splits. A giant poly tarp goes over that, and the pitch is steep enough for the snow to slide off, usually.
Each year, I seem to leave more and more stuff right in the boat for the winter, anything the cold won't hurt. Leave all of the seacocks open for the winter.
Al, I hope this has been helpful. If anyone out there thinks I'm doing something wrong, well, like the man on TV used to say, Come On Down, and let me know. Actually, it is kind of depressing, knowing I will soon be doing all of this, then waiting for Spring, so I'm outta here...
Your 25D will treat you well if you treat it well.
Dean Abramson
dabramson@mainephoto.com
I've had my 25D for 6-7 years. In the Fall, after removing the engine thermostat (to make sure the coolant goes eveywhere it's supposed to, since the engine is not up to temperature), I close the cooling intake seacock, then disconnect the cooling water hose from the seacock, and stick it in a bottle of non-toxic anti-freeze, run the engine until it sucks up a gallon, then quickly stick the hose in another gallon bottle. Two gallons total. I've heard that the anti-freeze should contain rust inhibitors, but I figure the regular stuff can't be any worse than the salt water that lives in there during the season. Then I replace the thermostat, then change the engine oil and filter, so it spends the winter with fresh oil. Now is a good time to check the water pump impeller (a little coolant will run out, no problem), and most folks say leave it out for the winter, some say in olive oil or something. If there are cracks in the impeller, replace it. (Always keep some spares of this; I once went quickly through a series of bum ones; but my current one is several years old and going strong.) By the way, in my opinion, the BEST money you can spend on this boat is to buy a Speedseal cover for the water pump. It is really a bitch to change/check the impeller otherwise.
After pumping out the holding tank, I pour a bottle of non-tox down the head, and pump it down. Then I pump the sinks in the head and galley until all of the fresh water is out, pour a gallon of non-tox into the water tank, then pump each faucet until a little non-tox comes out. Treat the bilge and pumps as Neil described.
I leave my mast at the boat yard, but the boat gets trucked to my house where I assemble a wood support for the tarp. It's made of 5 2x4 A-frames which run athwartship, connected by el cheapo 1x3 runners, and a 2x4 ridge. All the pieces are number/letter coded, so it is easy to reassemble each year. No bolts or screws, just hammer it together, hammer it apart. The A-frames are substantial, and each of them stays intact. Now and then I have to replace a runner, when it splits. A giant poly tarp goes over that, and the pitch is steep enough for the snow to slide off, usually.
Each year, I seem to leave more and more stuff right in the boat for the winter, anything the cold won't hurt. Leave all of the seacocks open for the winter.
Al, I hope this has been helpful. If anyone out there thinks I'm doing something wrong, well, like the man on TV used to say, Come On Down, and let me know. Actually, it is kind of depressing, knowing I will soon be doing all of this, then waiting for Spring, so I'm outta here...
Your 25D will treat you well if you treat it well.
Dean Abramson
dabramson@mainephoto.com
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Don Sargeant
Re: Winterizing 25D
Al,
If you unstep your mast it makes a very good support for a winter cover. The pulpits are plenty strong enough to support it along with something in the middle -- I use a milk crate. If the mast fittings are carpeted, a good quality blue tarp will last at least two years if neatly installed. Flapping around is what kills them. After saying all that, I had the boat shrinkwrapped last year for about $200. Money well spent.
Don Sargeant
~~COQUINA~~
CD25D #189
Greenwich Cove
don@cliggott.com
If you unstep your mast it makes a very good support for a winter cover. The pulpits are plenty strong enough to support it along with something in the middle -- I use a milk crate. If the mast fittings are carpeted, a good quality blue tarp will last at least two years if neatly installed. Flapping around is what kills them. After saying all that, I had the boat shrinkwrapped last year for about $200. Money well spent.
Don Sargeant
~~COQUINA~~
CD25D #189
Greenwich Cove
This is my first year with a 25D. Need hints and info re winterizing the boat and motor. Is there a way to cover the boat inexpensively and also protectively, e.g., taup etc.?
don@cliggott.com
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John D
Re: Winterizing 25D
Reading these posts sure makes me glad I'm in Seattle - winterizing here is putting on some fleece and raingear and going sailingThis is my first year with a 25D. Need hints and info re winterizing the boat and motor. Is there a way to cover the boat inexpensively and also protectively, e.g., taup etc.?
John
jdupras@wdcorp.com