Does anyone have any suggestions on removing the tiller fitting on the top of the rudder shaft?
Thanks,
Trevor
Typhoon Rudder Removal
Moderator: Jim Walsh
-
Oswego John
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Typhoon Rudder Removal
Hi Trevor,
Some tiller fittings have a keyway and steel or Everdur key, others don't. The ones that I am familiar with all have two or three hex bolts. Some of the bolts use hex nuts to squeeze the fitting around the rudder post and to act as an axle to allow the tiller to pivot up and down.
I suggest that you give the top of the fitting a liberal dousing of some penetrating oil. Loosen all hex hardware and gently tap the fitting upward away from the rudder post with a soft blow hammer.
When reinstalling the fitting apply some kind of anti-seize coating on the inside of the fitting and post.
Scroll to the thread "What Happened To My Rudder This Afternoon". Scroll farther down till you see a photo sent in by Lew Gresham. It is of the connection link between the tiller and the rudder post. You will note a hex cap screw on the left without a nut.
If you have a similar fitting, this cap screw digs into a dimple on the post which centers the fitting in the correct position. It also, when tightend, prevents the fitting from rising off the post accidently.
You may or may not have this cap screw. Some do, some don't. If you do, it will probably be found at the rear of the fitting. What I am emphasizing is, if you have this cap screw, don't try to tap the fitting upward and off until the cap screw is fully backed off.
Good luck,
O J
Some tiller fittings have a keyway and steel or Everdur key, others don't. The ones that I am familiar with all have two or three hex bolts. Some of the bolts use hex nuts to squeeze the fitting around the rudder post and to act as an axle to allow the tiller to pivot up and down.
I suggest that you give the top of the fitting a liberal dousing of some penetrating oil. Loosen all hex hardware and gently tap the fitting upward away from the rudder post with a soft blow hammer.
When reinstalling the fitting apply some kind of anti-seize coating on the inside of the fitting and post.
Scroll to the thread "What Happened To My Rudder This Afternoon". Scroll farther down till you see a photo sent in by Lew Gresham. It is of the connection link between the tiller and the rudder post. You will note a hex cap screw on the left without a nut.
If you have a similar fitting, this cap screw digs into a dimple on the post which centers the fitting in the correct position. It also, when tightend, prevents the fitting from rising off the post accidently.
You may or may not have this cap screw. Some do, some don't. If you do, it will probably be found at the rear of the fitting. What I am emphasizing is, if you have this cap screw, don't try to tap the fitting upward and off until the cap screw is fully backed off.
Good luck,
O J
Last edited by Oswego John on Jan 2nd, '07, 09:13, edited 1 time in total.
-
Oswego John
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Typhoon Rudder Removal - Cont'd
Trevor and all,
This is an addendum to my previous post on the subject.
If my memory doesn't fail me, and it has been quite often of late, the earlier Tys came with a 3/4" bronze rudder post. The tiller fitting had no keyway. It had the hex cap screw that dug into the dimple on the rudder post as well as the compression nut and bolt that squeezes the slotted fitting tightly around the post. (See Lew's picture of a Ty tiller knuckle).
The CD 25s came with a 1" stainless steel post. The tiller cap and post were keyed, this due to the extra torque involved. Larger CDs'posts had a proportionally greater diameter.
Not being familiar with the Ty Senior and CD 22s, I can't comment on them. Maybe some of their owners would inform us of their post size, the metal that the post is made of and whether the upper fitting is keyed or not.
This info might prove handy for someone in the future.
All the best to everyone.
Think spring,
O J
This is an addendum to my previous post on the subject.
If my memory doesn't fail me, and it has been quite often of late, the earlier Tys came with a 3/4" bronze rudder post. The tiller fitting had no keyway. It had the hex cap screw that dug into the dimple on the rudder post as well as the compression nut and bolt that squeezes the slotted fitting tightly around the post. (See Lew's picture of a Ty tiller knuckle).
The CD 25s came with a 1" stainless steel post. The tiller cap and post were keyed, this due to the extra torque involved. Larger CDs'posts had a proportionally greater diameter.
Not being familiar with the Ty Senior and CD 22s, I can't comment on them. Maybe some of their owners would inform us of their post size, the metal that the post is made of and whether the upper fitting is keyed or not.
This info might prove handy for someone in the future.
All the best to everyone.
Think spring,
O J