Simple fixes to your decks...... Recoring a wet deck

[sanderpjwi]

Rather use simple tools: a hammer, wood chisel and circular saw. All that's needed to begin doing it right.

The previous owner of our 1970 Typhoon Weekender had someone laminate a sheet of teak and holly veneered plywood over an obviously soft deck, leaving the water trapped inside to further migrate down the port side. The plywood laminate did not stand well to the elements, deteriorating quickly.

I plan on vacuum bagging a new deck and repainting the entire topside. I’ll post additional photos when I’m done.

http://picasaweb.google.com/sanderpjwi/CDTydecks

Fair Winds,
Phil Sanders
Sturgeon Bay, WI

[Warren S]

I, for one, will be interested in seeing your progress.

[bhartley]

I personally would skip the vacuum bagging and just recore and re lay the glass, fair and paint.

Be very sure that you have blocked the poop deck from underneath before you start reglassing. Hard lesson learned here as the lower layer of glass didn't provide enough structure to hold the camber of the deck.

There's a few during and after photos on Miranda's website

Cheers!

Bly

[Rollergirl]

Vacuum bagging is just better practice. You want more fiber and less poly-whatever.

Redid my Ty by laying up the aft deck and adding a plastic bag full of warm water to accelerate the process (my version of the vacuum bagging process) . The next morning, it was apparent I needed 2" of fill in some places. What a re-do that turned out to be.

No one else could possibly be that stupid.

Vacuum Bagging will lessen the polar moment very slightly. The big benefit is the heightened strength of the structure. The low resin-to-fiber ratio for your buildup will leave you crackless for many years to come. If you have the process available, do it.
If not, borrow it.

The non-skid question is much more interesting.

Bill

[chase]

Bly, your boat looks terrific. Nice work.

I stopped by that woodshop in Atlanta and bought some lumber and some $1 sheets of veneer he had laying around, Great place.

Do you still sail on Hartwell?

Chase

[bhartley]

Chase,

We are still technically at Big Water Marina on Lake Hartwell since Ariel came out last Sunday for the season.

Miranda (our Ty) is up in Marbehead permanently after a fabulous month of sailing there this fall.

The newest addition to our Alberg tribe (Pixys, a CD25D) is sitting on a rented trailer in our front yard. Her permanent trailer is still a work in progress! We're hoping to get her up to Hartwell by March if all goes well.

Glad you got to Carlton-McLendon. They were just great to work with and went the extra mile to save me a trip back again when I needed a bit more cut at the last minute. I am very happy with how the toe/rub rails came out on Miranda.

Cheers!

Bly


P.S. As for the layup on Miranda's decks, I simply followed Casey & Gudgeon Bros. instructions to a T. Each area has 5-8 layers of fiberglass cloth rolled (with an aluminum spiked roller) and squeegeed in place. Biax was used in some places in addition to cloth to add to buildup. It does take a lot more work to wet it out without over-wetting. I was left with minimal fairing filler on the decks and seats. The pre-paint pictures show the finished look pretty well.

[sanderpjwi]

Thanks for all your comments and Bly's suggestion to support the thin lower skin from below. My bride was thrilled to hear I had another job for her in the "aft cabin" to shore things up before I begin laminating (since she was going to be back there anyway taping the plastic bagging film in).

In that the layup process is done on a less than perfect foundation, aside from the fact that I will get a stronger laminate, vacuum bagging it will be.

Fair winds,
Phil Sanders

[chase]

Phil

There's so much to learn from watching others progress..I'm looking forward to it.

I'd like to find a Ty out there and fix 'er up one day.

Good Luck,

Chase

[bhartley]

My husband will kill me if I drag another boat into the yard any time soon so I need other people's pictures to satisfy my need!

What are you using for your coring? I ended up using end-grain cedar rather than balsa. Some of the fancy synthetic core was tempting, but I was working under a budget.

One thing I did do was eliminate the core in the areas where the cleats, etc. were going to go. Those are solid epoxy/glass to avoid redrilling and overfilling. I ended up using John Martin's mainsheet setup instead of the original so I did have to overdrill those.

When I went to reinstall the cleat & motor mount, I drilled up from underneath using one hole in opposite corners. Then you could get the rest of the holes from the top.

I recommend you sending your "lovely bride" in there with everything needed to drill, bed and install all the hardware rather than make her go in again! It was definately not my favorite part of the project!

Cheers,

Bly

[sanderpjwi]

Well, the holidays are over and I finally got back to the project. The deck is re-cored with baltec balsa using the vacuum bagging technique. It was fairly simple and worked well. I ended up with good adhesion to the original remaining bottom skin and did not have to support it from underneath. There was no downward deflection of the deck using this process.

I have posted additional photos to:

http://picasaweb.google.com/sanderpjwi/CDTydecks


There was one minor glitch that was caused by placing the vacuum tubing under the top layer of bagging film that I will document and photo as I proceed with the project. Anyway, hope to have the project done by the end of the month.

Fair Winds,
Phil Sanders

[sanderpjwi]

Well, the deck restoration project is finished. Our Typhoon has a new suit of sails, new bronze ports and a new Hood Sea Flex roller snarler. The Ginny was launched last weekend and sailed three times since. A photo album of the project is located on Google's photo sharing website for anyone that may have an interest.

http://picasaweb.google.com/sanderpjwi/CDTydecks

Fair Winds,
Phil Sanders
Typhoon Weekender
Sturgeon Bay, WI

[Cathy Monaghan]

Rather use simple tools: a hammer, wood chisel and circular saw. All that's needed to begin doing it right.

The previous owner of our 1970 Typhoon Weekender had someone laminate a sheet of teak and holly veneered plywood over an obviously soft deck, leaving the water trapped inside to further migrate down the port side. The plywood laminate did not stand well to the elements, deteriorating quickly.

I plan on vacuum bagging a new deck and repainting the entire topside. I’ll post additional photos when I’m done.

http://picasaweb.google.com/sanderpjwi/CDTydecks

Fair Winds,
Phil Sanders
Sturgeon Bay, WI

Hi Phil,

I think your completed project looks fantastic!


Cathy
CD32 Realization, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay