25D Fuel Tank Removal

barfwinkle · Post by **barfwinkle** » Nov 26th, '06, 10:41

Hello to everyone and I hope everyone had a wonderful Thanksgiving.

Just a few quick questions. I have to replace the gasket on my fuel gage. Can it be done without removing the tank?

If not, has anyone removed the fuel tank on a 25D? Will the tank fit through the access panel in the port locker? Will the tank come out of the port locker?

I intended to take some measurements after my sail yesterday, but a situation at home hurried my departure and I was unable to do so.

TIA & Happy Holidays

Hans Littooy · Post by **Hans Littooy** » Nov 26th, '06, 14:10

Yes, I had the fueltank of my CD 25D - # 19 - Pilgrim - removed.
I did not do it myself. It came out fine through the port locker.
The reason was sludge in the bottom of the tank. I had it cleaned
and including the removal and re-instalment paid a little under $200.- in 2003. It was worth it to me.

Hans Littooy

Bruce Barber · Post by **Bruce Barber** » Nov 26th, '06, 21:24

But you shouldn't have to remove the tank to get at the gauge. I've had the gauge out several times to clean the tank by recirculating fuel through a filter and never had a problem. On my boat, it's on top at the port side, easily reached through the port cockpit locker.

In fact, I think getting the tank free and out would be difficult because of the need to remove the fastener at its aft end (the fastener that anchors the aluminum flat bar tie-down strap.) I've been contemplating shimming the tank up above its plywood platform to reduce the likelihood of corrosion, but so far I haven't figured out how to get at that screw without making additional cuts in the longitudinal stiffener that bounds the engine compartment on the port side.

Tracuman · Post by **Tracuman** » Nov 27th, '06, 08:12

Decided to pull my tank on Saturday since I wasn't really sure what was in there from 8 years of neglect. I was going to replace all the fuel lines anyways, so once I released the clamps and unhooked the ground cables, it was easy to pull out the tank. What wasn't easy was moving around inside that port locker. I'm not a huge person, but it was a tight fit with a screw driver. Once out, it was easy to clean and dry. What I think is poor planning was putting the Fram fuel filter on the starboard side of this compartment behind the engine. You cannot reach it from the front (due to hoses and cabling, etc.) and only an NBA star with long arms could reach across from the port locker...and even then, you're in an odd position sliding down toward the bow on your left side....can't use your left arm. It was a lot of fun!

barfwinkle · Post by **barfwinkle** » Nov 27th, '06, 08:22

Bruce, so you were able to completely remove the fuel gage with the tank in place?

Tracuman, I too need to replace all of the fuel hose and working in the port locker is a chore. I will tell you that my filter in located on the starboard side just inside the engine compartment directly above the seacock for the engine.

In fact I want to replact that with a Racor 200 series. Does anyone know which size I should use? What I read on line says that they come in three different sizes.

Anyway, tanks for the replys and have a wonderful holiday season.

Bruce Barber · Post by **Bruce Barber** » Nov 27th, '06, 11:47

Bill,

Yes, the gage lifts right out. Just note which way it's oriented so you get it back the same way. The swing of the float might be restricted in some other position.

I've replaced the FRAM with the Racor 120, a neat little package. Mine also is at the front of the engine space. I also replaced the fuel hoses some years ago, and don't think I had to spend a lot of time in the locker. Of course, any time in there is too much time!

barfwinkle · Post by **barfwinkle** » Nov 27th, '06, 14:01

Bruce

Do I want the 120 model with or with/out the primer?

Tracuman · Post by **Tracuman** » Nov 27th, '06, 14:14

Yes, Bruce.
I'd also be interested in which Racor you have and the model # assuming you're happy with the performance.
Thank you
John

Bruce Barber · Post by **Bruce Barber** » Nov 27th, '06, 15:05

Bill & John,

My 120 is a basic filter with a see-thru bowl, without a primer, though the catalog says that the primer pump is an "option." The 120 has worked fine for me, and I don't miss a primer pump. When changing the element, I refill it most of the way, screw it on, and then use the manual lever on the engine-mounted fuel pump to top it off during the air-bleeding operation.

My (rather old) catalog shows a 215 that handles the same flow rate at 4 times the max pressure and does have an integral primer pump standard. It's also 2-1/2 inches taller and of larger diameter.

You might check their web site <www.parker.com/racor/> for any recent changes or additions.

Incidentally, I had no fuel shutoff valve until I added one (a Tempo) to the inlet port of the 120. Not really essential, but it adds some peace of mind when away from the boat.

Guys - I just checked the site and note that the "120A" no longer has the primer option. Also, the 215 has been replaced by the 230.

barfwinkle · Post by **barfwinkle** » Nov 27th, '06, 16:02

I just ordered my filter and new fuel line. Sounds like a good project over the xmas break.

Happy Holidays

Jim Davis · Post by **Jim Davis** » Nov 27th, '06, 16:30

If you can get the filter below the fuel level in the tank, and have a valve in the feed at/near the filter you can simply bleed the filter by syphon action.

barfwinkle · Post by **barfwinkle** » Nov 27th, '06, 19:16

Okay Bruce

I haven't looked in the archieves, so just to made sure:

were you able to completely (as best you could) empty all the "yuk" from the fuel tank while it was in place? Are there baffles in the tank, as indicated by and earlier posted (on a larger boat)?

Anyway, thanks to all that responded. I am now ready to complete the task.

Happy Holidays

Tracuman · Post by **Tracuman** » Nov 27th, '06, 20:46

Hi Barfwinkle,
When I removed the 14 gallon tank from my 25D, it easily came out the port locker by sliding it over and turning it sideways. Once out, I removed the fuel gauge by unscrewing the 6 machine screws and pulling the mechanical works out. This gave a pretty good access to the tank and I could already see that there was some gook coating the walls, but it wasn't as thick as I thought it would be after 8+ years. I emptied out the last dribbles of fuel, then added about a cup of Simple Green, sloshed it around for a few minutes, then added about a gallon of water and let that sit. I took a coat hanger and with a pair of pliers straightened it out except for the loop on the end and the cork-screw looking section on the other end. I took a green 3M pad and folded it over four times then centered it on the corkscrew end of the wire and bent the already made twists over the pad to hold it to the wire. I unfolded the pad and inverted it so it was spread out in the opposite direction as the hook. I stuffed the whole pad into the hole and proceeded to gently work the pad all around the tank. It reache all the way to the opposite corner, so I know there isn't a baffle in there. You have to be a bit careful not to bend the wire and you need to flip the tank over in various configurations in order to have gravity work with you, not against it reaching all the corners of the tank. I then sprayed more pressure water inside the tank and poured it all out into a bucket. I added more simple green and did the whole process again; three times in all. I took a flashlight and peeked around as best I could and it did look much cleaner, so I took the sprayer and rinsed it with fresh water a couple more times by filling and sloshing and pouring it out. I took the sprayer and used the standard water pressure to squirt down each of the access tubes to blow off whatever might be left on the screens (if there are any). I took the tank and propped it up outside in the sunshine to drain for a few hours and it's now in the garage still draining and drying until Saturday when I put it back in the boat. I''ll also replace the diesel cap O-ring and any worn/rusted clamps. Since I'm putting in the Racor next weekend also, it will take care of any left over H2O, if there is any. Hope that helps.
John

barfwinkle · Post by **barfwinkle** » Nov 28th, '06, 07:50

Thank you Bruce, John, et al for all the information.

This board is worth every bit of the $40 CDSOA membership fee.

Have a Happy

Ron M. · Post by **Ron M.** » Nov 28th, '06, 09:19

I've been going through the process of removal and cleaning my fuel tanks also. I have 2 cylindrical 12 gal. steel. They dont fit through the cockpit seat hatches, I was only able to get them out when I had the engine pulled for a re-power. They were always kept full but after 30 yrs. there was a lot of gunk in them.
I put a few gals. of fresh diesel in and a 6' length of 3/8 chain and rolled them around for awhile to scour the interior which did a good job but I couldn't really see much through an 1- 1/2" opening. After reading the info in the archives I cut a 4" dia. hole on the accessable end of each tank.I used degreaser and rags/swabs followed by Startron tank cleaner.I cut a 1"wide x 3/16" steel ring and had it welded around the 4" opening. Made a 6" cover plate w/buna gasket and drilled and tapped 8 1/4-20 machine screws around the perimeter.Tested air tight. Welder said he had never seen the inside of a tank so clean. I hope it holds when I fill it with diesel.
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