Typhoon question: Coaming cleats screwed or bolted through?

[bcgreen51]

I have a '71 Typhoon that I'm restoring after (too) many years out of the water. I have a question about the jib cleats that are attached to the outboard side of the coaming boards. Mine are aluminum horn cleats, and not the 90 degree angled ones. Are these cleats supposed to be just screwed into the coaming boards or bolted through, with nuts on the cockpit side? I've read some old posts about coaming boards splitting, and it seems that bolting them thru might be better, but then you'd have a washer/nut sticking in your back.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Ben

[bhartley]

On our Sea Sprite (a 23' Alberg design), the jib cleat nuts are actually countersunk in matching 6 sided holes. I don't know if your coamings are thick enough, but it eliminates the problem.

The original Ty cleats have threaded holes so the screw head is on the cockpit side.

I have pictures if you want to see. Just email me.

Bly

[Jim Evans]

On my '81 Typhoon, which I no longer own, I had the original coaming cleat, which is mounted at 90 degrees to the base. I suggest you replace your cleats with this original configuration. Spartan Marine sells a version of this cleat. Check it out at www.spartanmarine.com - it's item #C185PB. And they have a backing plate for it, too - #B195. The screw head is exposed on the backing plate - no sharp nuts or bolt to lean against. I believe the cleat base is threaded - mine were.

[Gary M]

You won't be satisfied with your existing cleat.

Screwing it to the coaming isn't a good solution and you know what the problem is with through bolting it.

Go with the Spartan cleat, you'll be glad you did.

Gary

[Oswego John]

Ben,

My 1969 Ty Weekender has a horn cleat mounted outboard of either coaming. They are made of bronze, have two mounting holes and are set at an angle of about 22 1/2 degrees, foreward end high, aft end low.

Each horn cleat has two hex recesses cast into the outer surface. Bronze flat head bolts, with screwdriver slots, pass through prebored holes in each coaming. I guess that they are called stove bolts.

The inboard side of the bolt hole is chamferred which lets the bolt sit flush with the coaming. The bolt passes through the coaming, through the cleat and is screwed into a bronce hex nut which is held captive in the precast hex hole in the outer face of the cleat.

I am completely satisfied with this arrangement and have never had any problems with it. But that's just me

My personal feeling is that cleats and other things of this sort should be through bolted. As mentioned, backing plates spread the load. Mounting cleats with screws isn't a wise option.

Good luck,
O J

[GLutzow]

My 1981 TYW which I have owned since new has two horn cleats, one on either side. Both are mounted on the combing using screws from the inside directly screwed into the body of the cleat. Note that there is a backing plate used on the inside before the screws go through. They are not screwed directly into the wood.