My Cape Dory 22D seems to float with the stern down and bow up a bit at mooring. I notice that the line of marine growth extends above the boottop near the stern.
The only addition to the aft half of the boat is a second battery I added to the starboard cockpit locker. However, I have moved everything of weight forward to the vee berth, leaving a few lines and life preservers aft. I also try and keep the water tank (under the vee berth) fairly full.
Is this a design problem (i.e. is the CD22 not balanced to take a diesel engine?) or is something else going on?
Interestingly, this is the boat's first year in salt water (it's an '84 and was previously kept in Lake Champlain). I would think the boat would float higher in salt water.
Should I repaint the boot top to match the new water line?
Cautions? Suggestions, anybody?
Stephen
sailing@star.net
Repaint Boottop for CD22D with Low Stern?
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Dana Arenius
Re: Repaint Boottop for CD22D with Low Stern?
This problem is not limited to the CD22. Many of the models "squat" at the stern. I successfully releveled the bottom paint waterline and boot top. Many people move the waterline (on Cape Dory and other boats) because of the fouling. I raised the waterline and boot top at the stern some 2-1/2 inches. I even kept the small 1/2 inch wide white space between the top edge of the bottom paint and the bottom of the boot top. The realignment is much easier to accomplish after the boat has been pulled and before the bottom is repainted because one can see the actual waterline stain "edge". If you have priced this work out at a marina, you already know it is not inexpensive.
Before one can begin to mark a new waterline and boot top for painting, one must be able to visualize a "concept". When you look at the boot top from the side of the boat, the boot top looks like an even 4 inch tall stripe. When you look at the boot top from below the boat looking up, you can see that the width of the stripe changes. It must widen as the slope of the hull side becomes more horizontal in order to appear to have an even 4 inches of vertical height when viewed from the side.
This is where a simple adjustable carpenters square comes in. By placing the square against the hull, one can measure and mark parallel stripes (of any height) as one would view from the side. One holds the ruler blade of the square horizontal and at a right angle to the side of the hull. Keep the adjustable slide of the square facing upwards and vertical. Slide the adjustable square slide toward the hull side until the top edge of the adjustable slide touches the boat. Believe it or not, the distance between the two points where the square touches the side of the boat is about 4 inches as viewed from the side. To get a different height, cut a small block of wood whose height is exactly the same as what you want the stripe height to be when viewed from the side. Place that block of wood into the vee of the square so that the measured blocked length runs along the vertical edge of the adjustable slide. When one now adjusts the alide toward the hull (while still holding the rule portion horizontal) the top of the wood block will touch the hull first. Mark the hull at the point where the top of the block touches the hull. The distance (as viewed from the side) is exactly the height of the block.
This may be hard to visualize. If you have difficulty, e-mail me and I will send you a sketch (by e-mail)which is worth a thousand words.
The steps I used were as follows:
1. You will need tape, ruler, pencil, and adjustable carpenters square with built in level indication.
2. Pick a side and carefully tape along the waterline stain edge so that the top edge of the tape is matched against the stain line. Use a lot of care and step back to view the fairness before proceeding further.
3. Using the carpenters square method above, run the horizontal tip of the square ruler along this tape line. At every six inches along the waterline, place a pencil mark at the block where you want the top of the new boot top to be. (One should allow at least 1-1/2 inches of extended bottom paint "room" above the waterline stain, a 1/2 inch of white space between the top of the new bottom paint line to bottom of the boot top and the height of the existing boot top as measured at the midship.)
4. Carefully tape along these marked points to form a tape edge of the top of the boot top. Step back from the boat and take a look at the tape line. Look for fairness of line, etc. If it look ok, mark another series of points about four vertical inches down (use the height you measured of the existing boot top at the midship) using the square again but now using the tape line as the reference line.
5. If you now use about a 4-1/2 inch block and measure down from the top of the new boot top, you can create a 1/2 inch space between the top of the new bottom paint line and the bottom of the new boot top line.
6. Step back and take a look at all this taping. Remember you have not done anything but taping so far. No harm done. It will give a real good idea of what it will look like.
As a suggestion....I "reversed taped" many of these lines so I could sand away areas of old boot top or feathering of the old bottom paint edge. I then re-taped along these lines in the normal fashion for actual painting of the boot top and bottom paint.
d_arenius@juno.com
Before one can begin to mark a new waterline and boot top for painting, one must be able to visualize a "concept". When you look at the boot top from the side of the boat, the boot top looks like an even 4 inch tall stripe. When you look at the boot top from below the boat looking up, you can see that the width of the stripe changes. It must widen as the slope of the hull side becomes more horizontal in order to appear to have an even 4 inches of vertical height when viewed from the side.
This is where a simple adjustable carpenters square comes in. By placing the square against the hull, one can measure and mark parallel stripes (of any height) as one would view from the side. One holds the ruler blade of the square horizontal and at a right angle to the side of the hull. Keep the adjustable slide of the square facing upwards and vertical. Slide the adjustable square slide toward the hull side until the top edge of the adjustable slide touches the boat. Believe it or not, the distance between the two points where the square touches the side of the boat is about 4 inches as viewed from the side. To get a different height, cut a small block of wood whose height is exactly the same as what you want the stripe height to be when viewed from the side. Place that block of wood into the vee of the square so that the measured blocked length runs along the vertical edge of the adjustable slide. When one now adjusts the alide toward the hull (while still holding the rule portion horizontal) the top of the wood block will touch the hull first. Mark the hull at the point where the top of the block touches the hull. The distance (as viewed from the side) is exactly the height of the block.
This may be hard to visualize. If you have difficulty, e-mail me and I will send you a sketch (by e-mail)which is worth a thousand words.
The steps I used were as follows:
1. You will need tape, ruler, pencil, and adjustable carpenters square with built in level indication.
2. Pick a side and carefully tape along the waterline stain edge so that the top edge of the tape is matched against the stain line. Use a lot of care and step back to view the fairness before proceeding further.
3. Using the carpenters square method above, run the horizontal tip of the square ruler along this tape line. At every six inches along the waterline, place a pencil mark at the block where you want the top of the new boot top to be. (One should allow at least 1-1/2 inches of extended bottom paint "room" above the waterline stain, a 1/2 inch of white space between the top of the new bottom paint line to bottom of the boot top and the height of the existing boot top as measured at the midship.)
4. Carefully tape along these marked points to form a tape edge of the top of the boot top. Step back from the boat and take a look at the tape line. Look for fairness of line, etc. If it look ok, mark another series of points about four vertical inches down (use the height you measured of the existing boot top at the midship) using the square again but now using the tape line as the reference line.
5. If you now use about a 4-1/2 inch block and measure down from the top of the new boot top, you can create a 1/2 inch space between the top of the new bottom paint line and the bottom of the new boot top line.
6. Step back and take a look at all this taping. Remember you have not done anything but taping so far. No harm done. It will give a real good idea of what it will look like.
As a suggestion....I "reversed taped" many of these lines so I could sand away areas of old boot top or feathering of the old bottom paint edge. I then re-taped along these lines in the normal fashion for actual painting of the boot top and bottom paint.
d_arenius@juno.com