Hello everyone
I have a scarf joint that is starting to come unglued. Wondering what type of glue you would recommend. Have used Gorilla Glue before (not on the boat) and was pleased with the results, however it expands as it sets so not sure that is right for this job.
Thanks in advance
William
Waterproof Glue recommendations
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Bill Jarrell
- Posts: 19
- Joined: Sep 8th, '05, 15:04
- Location: 1981 CD25 #806, Belfast, ME
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Oswego John
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Waterproof glue
Hi Bill,
I've got a shop full of various brands of waterproof glues. Every so often I clean out the shop and toss the half used, hardened tubes into the trash heap. Most glues are pretty much the same and will do the job, some better than the others.
When I really want a joint to never fail, I rely on a really tenacious glue called Resorcinol glue. It is a two-part glue that just won't quit. As with most glues, a cleaner should be used first. Resorcinol makes a cleaner that is very compatible with the glue.
Some people complain that the glue, when set, has a deep, wine color to it and not suitable for light toned wood. If the joint has a good prefit before gluing, and any excess glue that beads out under pressure is wiped off with cleaner, you shouldn't notice any glue discolorization whatsoever.
Be careful, this glue is more permanent than 3 M 5200.
Good luck,
O J
I've got a shop full of various brands of waterproof glues. Every so often I clean out the shop and toss the half used, hardened tubes into the trash heap. Most glues are pretty much the same and will do the job, some better than the others.
When I really want a joint to never fail, I rely on a really tenacious glue called Resorcinol glue. It is a two-part glue that just won't quit. As with most glues, a cleaner should be used first. Resorcinol makes a cleaner that is very compatible with the glue.
Some people complain that the glue, when set, has a deep, wine color to it and not suitable for light toned wood. If the joint has a good prefit before gluing, and any excess glue that beads out under pressure is wiped off with cleaner, you shouldn't notice any glue discolorization whatsoever.
Be careful, this glue is more permanent than 3 M 5200.
Good luck,
O J
Bill, I have used Gorilla Glue, Poly-Plus and some other polyurethane glues with good sucess outdoors. A couple years back I replaced sections of toe and rub rail and used G.G. for the scarfs, fine results. As with any repair get the joint as clean as possible, dry fit and clamp to check that it goes back together satisfactorally - then glue it up.
I think CD used Resorcinol, the original waterproof glue- which is good stuff also. I have seen Elmer's waterproof glue but never have tried it. Epoxy is another alternative but not alwys appropriate for the given job. Of course when glueing teak wipe it down with acetone to remove as much of the inherent oils before applying the adhesive.You should have good luck.
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Ford xm falcon history
I think CD used Resorcinol, the original waterproof glue- which is good stuff also. I have seen Elmer's waterproof glue but never have tried it. Epoxy is another alternative but not alwys appropriate for the given job. Of course when glueing teak wipe it down with acetone to remove as much of the inherent oils before applying the adhesive.You should have good luck.
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Ford xm falcon history
Last edited by Ron M. on Feb 11th, '11, 05:26, edited 1 time in total.
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tartansailor
- Posts: 1528
- Joined: Aug 30th, '05, 13:55
- Location: CD25, Renaissance, Milton, DE
Bonding Teak
I support the Resorcinol recommendation by Oswego John, and also the necessity of a good solvent flush to remove surface oils. Be certain that all of the solvent is evaporated before applying adhesive.
Dick
Dick
Viam Inveniam Aut Faciam