Cape Dorys, reefing, and NC Coastal sailing

[Warren S]

Hi folks,

Before we bought our CD270 a few weeks ago, the surveyor noted a 2nd reef cringle, but no rigging for a 2nd jiffy reef. Since we are still in boat-buyer's-honeymoon (tending lovingly to it's care, feeding, and small upgrades), we were thinking of adding the 2nd reef rigging.

My question is: Is it unusual that this (or any) CD this size come through without 2 sets of reefing gear? How often has anyone here needed to put in 2 reefs while on the Pamlico/Albermarle/Neuse? OK, that was 2 questions.

I'm tempted to wait until I have more experience before undertaking the project. Clearly, the interim plan should I end up over my head would be to drop all sails and put up the Iron Genoa (you know, the one made by Westerbeke).

Thoughts?

[Russell]

Hi Warren. While I cannot say specificly about cape dorys and it being normal to only have 1 reef point, I can say that its not uncommon for boats used for inland cruising and some coastal daysailing to only have 1. My catalina 30 only had 1. Do you need the 2nd one? Depends on where your sailing, I would certainly recommend it, you dont know if the iron genny is going to work when you need it, and if a srong wind is pushing you onto a lee shore the engine may not have the power to go into it.

But if the sail already has a second reef point in it, adding the hardware to the boom to rig it is a very easy process. Its just 1 padeye, 1 block and a cleat. The Padeye and block should be located a bit aft of where the clew would be when reefed, so it works as a bit of an outhaul, not just holding the sail down, but aft as well. Put your first reef in and note the padeye and block location in relation to the reef clew and use that as a guide for your second reef point. You can either rivet or tap and screw the padeye and block down. The block should be slightly higher on the boom then your first reef point block, so it does not interfere with the clean run of the first reefing line. If the first block is right in the middle then you may need to remove it and move it slightly down from center then place the new block slightly up from center. Likewise with the additional cleat on the boom near the mast.

Hope that helps.

[Ron Turner]

Warren,

Reefing is important because the iron genny may be the reason you are under sail. They have a tendency to go on vacation just when you need them.
Getting underway on a really windy day it is great to be able to preset the second reef. If you need more shake it out to the first. Better to be preparded than aground.
If you are going to be at McCotters this weekend, how about seeing how much transient space they have. That may be another alternative to the downtown dock for our Dog Days trip.

[Neil Gordon]

If the sail is set up for a second reef, you don't need jiffy reefing to tie the reef in. All you need is spare line to secure the cringle to the boom, etc. It's not as jiffy as having a cheek block in place and rigged, but you end up in the same place.

[Joe Myerson]

Warren:

Neil is right about improvising the second reef point. It all depends on the conditions you usually sail in.

My 25D came equipped with one set of reefing gear but two reef points in the sail. Since I had moved Creme Brulee from Long Island Sound, with its characteristically light winds, to Buzzards Bay, which is known for lots of wind and chop, I wanted to add a second set of reefing tackle to the boom.

The first reef consisted of a pad eye on one side and an adjustable cheek block on a genoa track on the other. I added a second cheek block that also included a welded-on eye, and put a second cleat near the gooseneck. Now I keep both reef points rigged almost all the time.

As a bonus: Instead of lazy jacks, I can use my reefing lines to control the mainsail as it comes down.

--Joe

[chase]

Warren,

Glad to hear about your new boat. I've had mine a year now and I'm having great adventures. As I've extended the conditions in which I feel comfortable handling the boat, I've realized the urgency for me to add a second reef. I simply would feel much more comfortable in wind and sea now with the boat canvassed properly rather than the motor with no sail. I've not sailed in winds much more than 20 kts, so my single reef has served me well. She feels solid and "right" and comfortable in those conditions with balanced sails. It is just so darned easy to reef.

With endorsement from the board, I used http://www.riggingonly.com/ and ordered the padeye, a block with a curved base, and 30 or so feet of sta-set in a drastically different color than the other reef line. I have not been back down to the boat to install it yet.

This place is really a professional rigging outfit and you can more or less just call them and tell them what boat you have and they will lay it out for you. Their prices on sta-set, blocks, etc are way below other companies. They will also tell you what screws are recommended so you can get a tap to match the screws they spec out for you. Just ask 'em real nice to run you through it. You can rivet too if you want to get into that. That'll require a heavier duty rivet gun to anchor that block right so it might be simpler with screws. Others can comment on that.

Since it is so simple, I'd go ahead and make it a priority. With the afternoon thunderstorms so prevalent down there, I'd feel better having 2 reefs in the main.


Chase

[Warren S]

Wow, this *IS* a great forum.

There is a lot of good detail in these responses, like providing for slight outhaul force. I'll be having a spare section of line around until the final install.

Ron, we'll scope out the transiant slip situation and post the findings.

[marilou]

The 270 likes to be reefed. To balance the helm (to decrease weather helm), or not to strain your tiller arm, it is a good thing to have that second reef. You can do it with one winch on your boom. Two separate clam cleats and pad eyes will suffice Just attach line 1/4-7/8 to your reef points. Contrary to your crews comments, "we feel to be going faster", reef early and practice at the dock.