CD 30 vs CD 28

[Ken]

I'm at a toss-up. I have a chance to buy a 1978 CD 30 or a 1982 CD 28. Besides the price, and a sloop rig on the 28 vs a cutter on the 30, there is not a lot of difference (I think). I am disappointed with the poor engine access on the 30. Any thoughts/advice on the characteristics of these two fine boats? Anyone having real problems getting to that engine?



bradenk@aol.com

[jim smiley]

I'm at a toss-up. I have a chance to buy a 1978 CD 30 or a 1982 CD 28. Besides the price, and a sloop rig on the 28 vs a cutter on the 30, there is not a lot of difference (I think). I am disappointed with the poor engine access on the 30. Any thoughts/advice on the characteristics of these two fine boats? Anyone having real problems getting to that engine?

smileyj@cofc.edu

[John R.]

I'm at a toss-up. I have a chance to buy a 1978 CD 30 or a 1982 CD 28. Besides the price, and a sloop rig on the 28 vs a cutter on the 30, there is not a lot of difference (I think). I am disappointed with the poor engine access on the 30. Any thoughts/advice on the characteristics of these two fine boats? Anyone having real problems getting to that engine?

Ken, We have a '83 30' cutter. The 28 cannot compete with rig diversity to the 30, get in some weather and you'll be real happy
that you have a cutter rig versus a sloop rig. See my comments in
another message area regarding the clubfoot on the staysail. I'm
scrapping the club and running regular sheets through snatch blocks.
Really improves the foredeck space. As far as the engine access goes
I agree that on the 30 it is way to confining. We solved the problem
three ways. The first thing I did was to cut a large hatch hole just
in front of the steering pedestal ( ours has Edson pedestal steering)
in the cockpit sole which gave great access to the front of the engine. We made a teak framework that runs around the opening rising
to about 1.5" above the sole which acts as a water dam. We built a
teak hatch with cauling seams as a teak deck would be designed. The
hatch fastens by bronze hex bolts that screw into 1/4" bronze plates
which are bolted under the sole. The bolts have o-rings under flat
washers that seal the bolt holes when the bolts are tightened down.
Provision was made for the bolt assembly by drilling appropriate countersinks into the hatch top. We built a battery box that holds
three gel cell batteries in the area under the hatch. If we need to do
significant work on the engine front we remove the batteries and a front panel from the battery box and that makes the battery box a
decent seat while working on the engine. Minor work can be done
without removing or opening the battery box. As for the engine access
on the port side where its the tightest we cut away the excess bulkhead that extends from behind the fuel tank and protrudes into
the engine area. We also changed the exhaust layout ( see message
regarding exhaust elsewhere in this listing ). I also removed the heat
exchanger from the mounting on the engine to the cockpit bulkhead on
starboard just in front of the battery box. I rerouted the cooling lines and exhaust hose which helped as well. With these modifications
we have quite good access to everything. Ours has a Volvo MD7 v-drive
with freshwater cooling. If you have further questions feel free to e-mail me. I'd buy the 30.
P.S. We also extended the stern tube closer to the coupling and added
a dripless shaft seal. If you get a 30 and want details get in touch.



Riesimage @ juno.com

[Jon Larson]

Ken,

I went through the same exercise, but ended up easily justifying the CD 30 Cutter. The major obvious area of difference is in the galley, the extra inches are gold and the gimbaled range with oven is a real plus over the counter mounted two burner stove that I remember in the 28's that I looked at. The extra inches in storage are all gold in a pocket cruiser like the CD28 or CD30.

I also really like the CD30 Cutter rig, the harder the wind blows the easier the boat is to sail with this flexible rig. I have a harken roller furler on the yankee so at the top most winds this modest sail is the only sail I fly and I never have to leave the cockpt under those conditions. When the wind starts to pipe up, it is so convenient to furl the yankee and sail with staysail and main, then reef main with staysail, then yankee alone. It's a really good rig.

I've not found the engine all that inaccessible, once I replaced the thermostat on the aft side of the engine I found I could do it a second time 'hugging' the engine with my arms around it and do the job by feel. The first time was standing on my head through a cockpit locker. I did have the yard repack the stuffing box, that also was doable from the existing engine arrangement. I suspect that is much the same with the CD28.

I'm at a toss-up. I have a chance to buy a 1978 CD 30 or a 1982 CD 28. Besides the price, and a sloop rig on the 28 vs a cutter on the 30, there is not a lot of difference (I think). I am disappointed with the poor engine access on the 30. Any thoughts/advice on the characteristics of these two fine boats? Anyone having real problems getting to that engine?

You won't be unhappy with either boat, however, condition and price are also important, but all things being on a reasonable par, there's no doubt about the CD 30, in my opinion.

Jon Larson
Cape Dory 30 PERI
San Francisco Bay



jon9@ix.netcom.com

[Neil Dexter]

I'm at a toss-up. I have a chance to buy a 1978 CD 30 or a 1982 CD 28. Besides the price, and a sloop rig on the 28 vs a cutter on the 30, there is not a lot of difference (I think). I am disappointed with the poor engine access on the 30. Any thoughts/advice on the characteristics of these two fine boats? Anyone having real problems getting to that engine?

I own a Cape Dory 30 (1983) which I purchased new. I don’t think I could ever go back to a sloop. I have Hood roller furling on the Yankee and LOVE the club foot on the staysail. In 30 to 40 knot winds I can drive the boat with one finger and don’t need to touch a sheet in order to tack. (single or double reef in the main, the staysail flying and the Yankee rolled up). I agree with Jon Larson, the flexibility of the cutter rig makes it great in any whether conditions. Gone are the days of sail changes. The only poor point of sail is straight down wind (you can’t go wing on wing on wing). I would look into getting a cruising shoot.
As for the engine, I agree that accessibility is a problem but I don’t think it is worth all the trouble that John R went to. I might change my mind if the engine was a real problem but mine has run well for 13 years. That cast-iron Swede should run forever.

Neil Dexter
neild@ancor.com



neild@ancor.com