Summary of CD-25 Outboard Solution & Replies.

[John Ring]

Hi All!

I'd like to round up the valuable information and great input that has shown up on this page with regard to CD-25 outboard transplants. I think we can save many good sailors a great deal of angst,and make our sailing more enjoyable thanks to the helpful input received.

A while ago, I posted a note describing my experience (use the search engine at the top of the page plugging in "Outboard Solution" to view). I describe an 8hp Johnson with a 15" shaft and no alternator. I like the length, portability, forward facing shifter, tiller,and choke. I like the ability to close the hatch, but NOT the lack of charging on my motor.

Ken jumped in with an 8hp Sailmaster that can charge, but the 25" shaft is too long and the addition of a blower in the hatch is a big help in reducing smothering with the hatch closed.

Bob tried a 6hp, but it lacks thrust, and a sail prop is a must regardless of hp.


From this I think we can start to shape up a better solution, but we need more input and ideas. Many of us agree the 9.9 is too heavy; we can't store it in the sail locker easily, and we don't like to leave it in the water all season

Has anyone tried a blower in the hatch, a lightweight 8hp that can charge with a 15" shaft and sail prop, sitting on a pressure treated 2x4 (replacing the stock mounting board)? Is a lightweight 8hp 15" charging motor available? How much would it weigh? My 15" 8hp weighs in at 56lbs. The charging 9.9 is closer to 100lbs. Can we get some more ideas and opinions?

Let's keep this ball rolling,
John Ring
Boston
s/v Sovereign
CD-25



ringj@mediaone.net

[Cris Jasonides]

Installed a 1999 Yamaha 8hp outboard this past spring:
* The 15" shaft model weighs 60 lbs. The 20" shaft model weighs ?lbs.
* Charging is availabe for extra $40.00 ( rectifier kit that I installed myself - easy. It can't weigh more than 2 lbs. ). It puts out 6 Amps at low throttle.
* Gas to oil ratio is 100:1 - little smoke.
* Fits in the well with no modifications. Although I used the old mounting boards form previous owner that had a 1978 Envirude 9.9hp.

Chris Jasonides
Portland, ME
s/v Red October
CD-25



cjason@maine.rr.com

[Ed Roberts]

The Evinrude/Johnson family includes 6, 8, 9.9 HP motors with names like Sailmaster and Yachtwin, indicating several changes making them suitable for sailboats, including an alternator even on the 6 HP.

The 6,s and 8,s have identical engines, except the 8 has been "hot-rodded" to achieve a higher max rpm, thus the 8 hp rating. However, this does little for sailors who almost never run at max rpm, except help empty their wallets. The 9.9/15 HP motors have 50% more displacement than the 6/8 hp motors and should be expected to produce much more thrust.

Ed R.

I believe (but am not sure) that the Sailmaster/Yachtwin motors have a different prop from the rowboat motors of the same size. Thus, for a boat that only needs a "long shaft" motor, the 6 hp sailboat motor is the choice. If an extra-long shaft is required, then you must go to the 8 hp sailboat motor.

[John]

The Evinrude/Johnson family includes 6, 8, 9.9 HP motors with names like Sailmaster and Yachtwin, indicating several changes making them suitable for sailboats, including an alternator even on the 6 HP.

The 6,s and 8,s have identical engines, except the 8 has been "hot-rodded" to achieve a higher max rpm, thus the 8 hp rating. However, this does little for sailors who almost never run at max rpm, except help empty their wallets. The 9.9/15 HP motors have 50% more displacement than the 6/8 hp motors and should be expected to produce much more thrust.

Hi!
I don't think OMC makes a 15" Sailmaster/Yachtwin, do they? The 15" shaft is what makes my motor portable enough to place into a sail locker easily after each use. The 20" would be more difficult, 25" nearly impossible. A 15" charging sailboat motor would be perfect if it was in the 60 pound range. Yamaha seems to have a nice motor (see other replies).
John

Ed R.

I believe (but am not sure) that the Sailmaster/Yachtwin motors have a different prop from the rowboat motors of the same size. Thus, for a boat that only needs a "long shaft" motor, the 6 hp sailboat motor is the choice. If an extra-long shaft is required, then you must go to the 8 hp sailboat motor.

[Don Carr]

Hi All!

I'd like to round up the valuable information and great input that has shown up on this page with regard to CD-25 outboard transplants. I think we can save many good sailors a great deal of angst,and make our sailing more enjoyable thanks to the helpful input received.

A while ago, I posted a note describing my experience (use the search engine at the top of the page plugging in "Outboard Solution" to view). I describe an 8hp Johnson with a 15" shaft and no alternator. I like the length, portability, forward facing shifter, tiller,and choke. I like the ability to close the hatch, but NOT the lack of charging on my motor.

Ken jumped in with an 8hp Sailmaster that can charge, but the 25" shaft is too long and the addition of a blower in the hatch is a big help in reducing smothering with the hatch closed.

Bob tried a 6hp, but it lacks thrust, and a sail prop is a must regardless of hp.


From this I think we can start to shape up a better solution, but we need more input and ideas. Many of us agree the 9.9 is too heavy; we can't store it in the sail locker easily, and we don't like to leave it in the water all season

Has anyone tried a blower in the hatch, a lightweight 8hp that can charge with a 15" shaft and sail prop, sitting on a pressure treated 2x4 (replacing the stock mounting board)? Is a lightweight 8hp 15" charging motor available? How much would it weigh? My 15" 8hp weighs in at 56lbs. The charging 9.9 is closer to 100lbs. Can we get some more ideas and opinions?

Let's keep this ball rolling,
John Ring
Boston
s/v Sovereign
CD-25

I installed a Nissan(aka Tohatsu) 9.8 non-tiller model 20" shaft. A few comments. The engine weighs in at about 90lbs and is not really a burden to lift out about once a month to clean growth off. I used a clear anti-foul paint and so far so good (since April). One thing I made sure of is that I got the sailboat prop (high thrust). In a displacement hull thrust is more relevant than HP.
As far as backing the CD25 - forget it. I use reverse simply as a stopping mechanism - the boat just doesn't back very well and when you get enough steerageway to to so, water pours in the aft engine area. My 9.8 has enough kick to keep me at 3-4 knots running against a 3-4 knot current. In still water full out I can manage about 6.3-6.5 knots.
The Nissan has a wonderful 8 amp alternator with diode so charging is a given.

Don
s/v Camanae.



carrd@erols.com

[Jim Shriner]

I posted my experiences with the Tohatsu 8 HP long shaft with alternator and electric start in June. The motor was a drop in fit, powers the boat to hull speed at half throttle, was the least expensive by a large margin and with the electric start, my wife and daughter, for the first time, are taking the boat out without me. The only thing I had to do was to lengthen the wires to the battery as they weren't long enough to reach the battery. I am still running on a 25/1 mix for break in so I can't comment on how smokey it is, although it smokes less then it's predecessor on 50/1. I have also been on the bow in a seas setting an anchor and had no problems with the prop coming out of the water. I have two scoop vents in the engine locker cover, one facing forward, one facing aft and have no problems with air starvation, although, I only use the motor to exit our very narrow channel (Wychmere Harbor in Harwichport on Cape Cod) so I don't do any extensive motoring. I recently pulled the motor and removed an inch thick layer of sea grapes and barnacles (In my enthusiasm to mount the new motor to replace my 20 year old, very cantankerous evinrude sailmaster I didn't paint it first), then heavily applied the two step, clear antifouling spray paint specifically for outboards and outdrives that is available from West Marine. So far, nothing has returned, but I will post a follow-up on the pain in a month. All in all, this was a great solution.


Jim Shriner

Hi All!

I'd like to round up the valuable information and great input that has shown up on this page with regard to CD-25 outboard transplants. I think we can save many good sailors a great deal of angst,and make our sailing more enjoyable thanks to the helpful input received.

A while ago, I posted a note describing my experience (use the search engine at the top of the page plugging in "Outboard Solution" to view). I describe an 8hp Johnson with a 15" shaft and no alternator. I like the length, portability, forward facing shifter, tiller,and choke. I like the ability to close the hatch, but NOT the lack of charging on my motor.

Ken jumped in with an 8hp Sailmaster that can charge, but the 25" shaft is too long and the addition of a blower in the hatch is a big help in reducing smothering with the hatch closed.

Bob tried a 6hp, but it lacks thrust, and a sail prop is a must regardless of hp.


From this I think we can start to shape up a better solution, but we need more input and ideas. Many of us agree the 9.9 is too heavy; we can't store it in the sail locker easily, and we don't like to leave it in the water all season

Has anyone tried a blower in the hatch, a lightweight 8hp that can charge with a 15" shaft and sail prop, sitting on a pressure treated 2x4 (replacing the stock mounting board)? Is a lightweight 8hp 15" charging motor available? How much would it weigh? My 15" 8hp weighs in at 56lbs. The charging 9.9 is closer to 100lbs. Can we get some more ideas and opinions?

Let's keep this ball rolling,
John Ring
Boston
s/v Sovereign
CD-25

jimshriner@ibm.net

[Harris]

I always like this subject as I have bben contemplating it for 20 years now...although the subject of my affection is an Alberg Sea Sprite 23. I want to reiterate that I purchase a new Johnson 7.5 in the early 80's and blew up the motor 1.5 years later. Would I leave a motor in the well again? Not even overnight. Expensive lesson. That antifouling doesnt protect the inside of the passages. How about the 6 hp evenrude with the hole dissolved in the lower unit.....at least that was a used motor! I now store my motor in my cabin. Often I have a light 3 hp Evenrude....a real old one 63.......for those light jobs and the big Seagull(8hp) on standby when I need to fight chop or wind. If I had a CD 25 as I consider them a lot fuller than my SS I wouldnt hesitate to put a bracket on the transom and using a 6-8. If you know you are going offshore or in real rough conditions you can always move the motor to the well. After 20 years I have begun to be bothered by the feel of the lower unit dragging under sail. It is more noticable in calm water........Anyway I have sailed 8 times this year and havent motored yet...but I pick my days and August is here and I always have my worst luck in August......



hg@myhost.com

[Bill]

I always like this subject as I have bben contemplating it for 20 years now...although the subject of my affection is an Alberg Sea Sprite 23. I want to reiterate that I purchase a new Johnson 7.5 in the early 80's and blew up the motor 1.5 years later. Would I leave a motor in the well again? Not even overnight. Expensive lesson. That antifouling doesnt protect the inside of the passages. How about the 6 hp evenrude with the hole dissolved in the lower unit.....at least that was a used motor! I now store my motor in my cabin. Often I have a light 3 hp Evenrude....a real old one 63.......for those light jobs and the big Seagull(8hp) on standby when I need to fight chop or wind. If I had a CD 25 as I consider them a lot fuller than my SS I wouldnt hesitate to put a bracket on the transom and using a 6-8. If you know you are going offshore or in real rough conditions you can always move the motor to the well. After 20 years I have begun to be bothered by the feel of the lower unit dragging under sail. It is more noticable in calm water........Anyway I have sailed 8 times this year and havent motored yet...but I pick my days and August is here and I always have my worst luck in August......

I've been considering a new outboard for my CD25 and tend to agree with Harris that lightness may be more useful than power. (Easy to pull out of well and store.) I understand from a previous posting that the 5hp 20" shaft Honda 4-stroke fits the well and stores relatively easy in cockpit locker. The motor weights about 60 lbs is quiet, smokeless and very efficient. Anyone have any experience with the 5hp Honda's ability to power a CD25? Thanks in advance.
Still procrastinating-
Bill



wawillis@shore.intercom.net

[Mark Tallon]

OUTBOARD SOLUTION ANSWER FROM SOLACE
--There are 3 CD25s here in the Southport, NC area (at the mouth of the Cape Fear River). We have a 6 to 7 foot tide range. When combined with the river current we experience a robust 6 knot current in the Cape Fear River.
1. 1973 CD25 uses a 5hp 4-stoke Honda.
----Tom is very happy with this engine.
2. 1974 CD25 currently running w/6hp Suzuki.
----Our boat. Carol & I are happy with this engine.
3. 1978 CD25 uses a 15hp OMC.
----Chris reports this engine is too big to handle and wants a smaller engine. He is considering an 8hp Honda 4-stroke.
--We had a Yahama 8hp. It did a great job and fit in the well, but was too difficult to move around the boat. Now we have a Suzuki 6hp with 20” shaft. This engine is lighter and easier to move around the boat. I typically only go for day sails and stow the engine below in the cabin.
--The 6hp provides plenty of power to meet our needs. We have moved another CD25 for a friend approximately 35 miles, under power, against a 6 knot tide (Intercoastal Waterway & The mighty Cape Fear River) using our 6hp with no real problems.
--We really like the 6hp because we can mount it quickly if needed. We never leave it in the water more than 3 days at a time. It is easy enough to remove so we simply take it home. Thrust doesn’t seem to be a problem, but I don’t believe we have a sail prop and will consider trying one if it doesn’t cost too much.
--We use two large flexable solar panels to keep the battery topped off. We have never had any trouble with power, but we don’t use very much either. To use electrical accessories, you must purchase a 35 AH or larger battery, rectifier and related items. We don't use this feature because we don't run the engine that often. Solar is easier for us.
--We have a 2hp Suzuki auxillary that also pushes our CD25 fine. In fact a friend of mine borrowed it one day for his 1967 Bristol 27 and he wanted to keep it!
--Backing our CD25 has always been a challenge no matter what kind of engine we use. Its just one of those CD25 things one must live with.
--In summary, we highly recommend a 6hp Suzuki (20" shaft) on the CD25(ob).



cypriss428@aol.com