Running the bead............................................

[s.v. LaVida]

Its caulking time again and I'd like to once and for all learn how to run a straight line caulk line.

After years of practice, I'm still hardly any better than when I started. My caulk lines usually look like they've been made by an errant snail.

So, who among us has the best advice to run the perfect caulk bead?

Rit

[Ben Thomas]

The best approach I have found is running blue tape along both sides of the seam. Getting it as close as you want, it is fairly easy to run straight or parralell and very easy to correct if not. Run the bead of chaulk and then with your finger smooth and remove the excess chaulking, its better not to apply any more than needed, (clean up easier) Be sure to not leave any amount on the edge of the tape as it will leave gobs along the way when you pull the tape.
Remove the tape when surface is just starting to set, pulling the tape away from the chaulking edge about 30-40 degrees off the line both laterally and vertically.
This has worked well on new laminations and existing pieces that needed re-chaulking.
Works better to remove as much of existing chaulk as possible to avoid build up and to thin a layer.
Best of luck!
Ben

[Rperlot]

I may be stating the obvious, but it took me a while to learn the obvious. Cut the tip of the caulk at 45 degrees allowing for a hole of circumfrance that is just under the width of the gap to be caulked (or about 1/8" if you are not caulking to fill a subtantial gap). Hold the caulk gun about 15 degrees higher at the leading edge (direction of the travel of the gun) than the cut, allowing exposure of the hole.

Then the key is to watch the leading edge, not the following edge. You should squeeze out enough caulk to create a bubble ahead of the direction of travel (what is generally referred to as the the bead) and keep your rate of travel and squeeze out balanced to maintain the bubble. Not let it grow by moving too slow or squeezing too fast. Not letting it disappear by moving too fast or not squeezing out enough. Balance is key and your rates may change as you move to correct or if the volume of the gap to be caulked changes. The tip at the trailing edge should accomplish the smoothing if you keep your gun in motion. But using a wet finger is perfectly acceptible to remove the excess.

I'm just sayin'

[Russell]

I always have had difficulty making clear professional looking caulking lines. If you looked at all the caulking I did in my head last year you would see what I mean. My problem tends to be maintaining consistant pressure on the caulking gun while moving at a consistant speed, so the smoothing out after is important for me. The blue tape does indeed help. Using your finger to smooth it out can be a bit of a mess though, I have often found myself with sealants stuck on my hand for days from using my finger, and a rubber glove just sticks and drags in it. Find a nice peice of metal that is rounded the right size for the job and use it to smooth it out. A boat carpenter friend of mine gave me the idea for what I use, I have a mierchen rigging knife that has a seperate marlin spike, not the folding kind of marlin spike thats part of the knife, but a seperate one, the blunt end of it is just about perfect to use for this.

Though I am not sure if I would take my advice, as I said, I am awful at this. Nice caulking really does seem to be a talent.

[Greg Ross]

I won't claim to have invented this since I saw it done about 20 years ago on Motor Yacht Widow Frames. I at least remembered! and used it successfully on many applications.
Probably a good idea to do a couple of mock-up tests to see what width looks and works best for you. A 1/4" fillet is enormous. I tend to agree with Ben, 1/8" wide slot is about right and use at least 3/4" wide tape. Even if you're sparing with the caulking you can plow up quite a gob when you're doing the finger swipe. Remenber to wet your' finger.

[Oswego John]

Rit,

R. Perlot and Greg both said the magic word, *WET*. No matter what you use to tool the finished bead, whether you use your finger or a tool, dip it in a can of water first.

Before I begin to do any caulking, I make sure that I assemble everything that I need to complete the job. Two of the essentials for me are a large can or pail of fresh water and a roll of paper towels. A good caulking gun helps a lot.

When you are about to stop running a bead, quickly flip up the bent metal pressure release for the plunger at the upper rear of the gun to release pressure at the nozzle. Wipe any overflow on the nozzle tip with a piece of wet paper towel. Activate the plunger release and proceed with the bead. If you stop for any reason and then begin to caulk again, you want to remove any blob of caulk at the nozzle tip or you'll be schmearing the caulk all over the place.

If you use your wet finger to tool the bead and some caulk gets on your finger, wipe it off as soon as possible with a wet paper towel.
Sometimes when working on a fillet joint, rather than tooling with a wet finger, I use a wet teaspoon to smooth the joint. If I use the rounded end of the spoon, I get a slight concave finish. If I use the flat spoon handle, I get a flat 45° finish.

The secret to a perfect caulk joint is to first imbibe in at least two stiff Dark and Stormies. This helps to loosen you up and become one with the caulking world. After you finish caulking, slowly sip at least two more D&S and I guarantee you that the joint will look beautiful

Good luck,
O J

[Ben Thomas]

The more there is the faster you go!!
Whatever tool of choice a little mineral spirits for the wetted surface makes for an easier clean up of any excess chaulking.
I am sooo glad spring is here and summer on the way!!
Hope you all have a wonderful season. Ben

[John G.]

Instead of pulling the gun towards you try pushing it away from you,if you keep the pressure steady on the trigger the caulk line will smooth itself out. Messy business that must be done carefully to avoid big clean-ups any way that you do it.

[Brandon]

I agree with OJ. Wet finger is the key. Although I don't use water, I dip my finger in Denatured Alcohol then smooth out. Haven't tried the spoon, sure it works great. I find that blue tape, wet finger, and too much rather than not enough is the main part of the trick. If you try any of this without tape and wet finger, and get the same results... let me hand you a trophy.