Genoa and spinnaker turning blocks

[Craig LeBlanc]

Ladies and Gentlemen, I'm looking for ideas on how to mount the harken ratchet turning blocks that I'm about to purchase for my CD30. I need the following info
1. Location. meez thinks about 6" to 12" forward of the stern cleats.
2. the blocks are going to be cheek style ratchet port and starboard they need to be raised on teak platforms, how high should this block of teak be and where can I get it?
3. I was thinking of using the model 015 and 016 with a SWL of 750 lbs and 1500 breaking 7/16 max line size. does this seem OK?
4. will this same location work for the spinnaker sheets. I'm thinking I'll just pull the jib sheets out of these blocks when I decide to put up the spin. I mean how much of a difference is it going to make by moving the spin blocks further aft. I don't have more than a foot or two left.
5. for the furler I'm going with the rachet and cam setup mounted on the stern rail that was posted with a picture in another post by Warren.
6. I'm also upgrading to anderson 40 self tailing winches at this time the base diameter should fit on the existing winch stands.
7. My objective is to make furling, tacking and jibing single handed much easier, esp when it's blowing. What do you think?

[John Martin]

Hi Craig,

Turning block; If your track goes back far enough you can use an ABI slide (with spring loaded pin), and an oversize Harken block (remember the load on the turning block is double). This is adjustable after the fact.

For spinn; we attach our Harken 015/016 with a loop of 1" tubular nylon, hitched to the stern cleat.

Hope this helps.

John

[Steve Laume]

I just added some bronze pad eyes where you are talking about putting your turning blocks. I plan to use them for the reacher sheets and or jack lines. This will fee up the stern cleats for towing or mooring. It will make it easy to clip in the snatch blocks for the sheets. I used to use the short loop of webbing on the stern cleats too. Turning blocks must have some advantages but this should work and be cost effective for me. The more bronze the better, Steve.

[Craig LeBlanc]

Hi John
I wish my tracks went back all the way I was reading the coast guard report on drogues and it said that this would make a good attachment point for spreading the loads that the drogue would cause in storm conditions. My cd30 tracks are only 4 feet long and they end forward of the jib/genoa sheet winches. I agree that you can use the nylon lead from the cleats but I was thinking how great it would be to just have them mounted. all twisting and clanging would be eliminated.

Hi Craig,

Turning block; If your track goes back far enough you can use an ABI slide (with spring loaded pin), and an oversize Harken block (remember the load on the turning block is double). This is adjustable after the fact.

For spinn; we attach our Harken 015/016 with a loop of 1" tubular nylon, hitched to the stern cleat.

Hope this helps.

John

[John Martin]

Craig,

Our previous CD28 (INTREPID) has installed on her what I described above. On our current CD31 (CARINA) we have foot blocks for the jib sheet.

I do not know is the foot blocks will work with the sheeting angle for the spinnaker. I like the idea of adding pad eyes mentioned above for spinnaker snatch blocks. I like having separate blocks and sheets for jib and spinnaker.

We have a spinnaker for CARINA, but no way to rig a spinnaker halyard, yet. Next time the mast is down, we will add a spinnaker halyard.

John

[Craig LeBlanc]

Hi Steve
I'm curious, a reacher is that like a cruising spin. I always get them confused reacher, flasher, stasher etc.
could you tell me more about your genoa tracks and sheeting arrangement for the jib. like I said mine are 4 feet long and end forward of the winches.

I just added some bronze pad eyes where you are talking about putting your turning blocks. I plan to use them for the reacher sheets and or jack lines. This will fee up the stern cleats for towing or mooring. It will make it easy to clip in the snatch blocks for the sheets. I used to use the short loop of webbing on the stern cleats too. Turning blocks must have some advantages but this should work and be cost effective for me. The more bronze the better, Steve.

[Steve Laume]

I have the original 4FT tracks that work well with the yankee jib. I do have a genoa that came with the boat but we have not flown it yet. I wonder if there will be enough track length to obtain a proper sheet angle for this sail. We never used it last year as I was learning a great deal about the boat in our first season with her. The reacher is basically a big, flying, fully cut, genoa. It is a light sail and we fly it on a spinnaker halyard. We did not have a pole last year but I added a bail to the end of the boom. With the bail and a snatch block we could wing the sail way out for running down wind. Lots of power, lots of fun, Steve.