Help testing my old autopilot
Moderator: Jim Walsh
- Joe Myerson
- Posts: 2216
- Joined: Feb 6th, '05, 11:22
- Location: s/v Creme Brulee, CD 25D, Hull #80, Squeteague Harbor, MA
Help testing my old autopilot
My vintage (1982) Cape Dory 25-D came with an equally vintage autopilot, a Navico TP-1600. The previous owner told me he used the unit (only when under power), but I've never been able to get it to work.
Last year I tried to use it, but couldn't. Somebody suggested I replace the fuses--and sure enough, the fuse in the unit was fried. I replaced that, and it still didn't work. I thought power might not be getting to the cockpit plug, so I reconnected the wires. But the thing still didn't work.
Right now the boat's out of the water, under shrink-wrap, and the batteries are out of the boat. So my question is, does anybody know of a way that I can check to see if the unit does work while it's sitting in my basement?
Please be advised that I know very little about marine electrical systems, so any responses should be couched in terms that a total novice could understand.
Thanks everybody,
--Joe
Last year I tried to use it, but couldn't. Somebody suggested I replace the fuses--and sure enough, the fuse in the unit was fried. I replaced that, and it still didn't work. I thought power might not be getting to the cockpit plug, so I reconnected the wires. But the thing still didn't work.
Right now the boat's out of the water, under shrink-wrap, and the batteries are out of the boat. So my question is, does anybody know of a way that I can check to see if the unit does work while it's sitting in my basement?
Please be advised that I know very little about marine electrical systems, so any responses should be couched in terms that a total novice could understand.
Thanks everybody,
--Joe
Former Commodore, CDSOA
Former Captain, Northeast Fleet
S/V Crème Brûlée, CD 25D, Hull # 80
"What a greate matter it is to saile a shyppe or goe to sea."
--Capt. John Smith, 1627
Former Captain, Northeast Fleet
S/V Crème Brûlée, CD 25D, Hull # 80
"What a greate matter it is to saile a shyppe or goe to sea."
--Capt. John Smith, 1627
- Joe Myerson
- Posts: 2216
- Joined: Feb 6th, '05, 11:22
- Location: s/v Creme Brulee, CD 25D, Hull #80, Squeteague Harbor, MA
Showing the depth of my ignorance
Jim,
Do I have to worry about which wire from the battery goes to which end of the autopilot's plug? (See what I mean about not knowing much about this 12-volt, DC stuff.)
Do I have to worry about which wire from the battery goes to which end of the autopilot's plug? (See what I mean about not knowing much about this 12-volt, DC stuff.)
Former Commodore, CDSOA
Former Captain, Northeast Fleet
S/V Crème Brûlée, CD 25D, Hull # 80
"What a greate matter it is to saile a shyppe or goe to sea."
--Capt. John Smith, 1627
Former Captain, Northeast Fleet
S/V Crème Brûlée, CD 25D, Hull # 80
"What a greate matter it is to saile a shyppe or goe to sea."
--Capt. John Smith, 1627
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- Posts: 4367
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 17:25
- Location: s/v LIQUIDITY, CD28. We sail from Marina Bay on Boston Harbor. Try us on channel 9.
- Contact:
Re: Showing the depth of my ignorance
Yes! (Okay, yes, it matters. It's up to you whether you worry about it.)Joe Myerson wrote:Do I have to worry about which wire from the battery goes to which end of the autopilot's plug?
Fair winds, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167
Boston, MA
CDSOA member #698
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167
Boston, MA
CDSOA member #698
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- Posts: 88
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 10:14
- Location: "Lilypad"
CD27 #105
Annapolis, Maryland - Contact:
I think DC electric devices (motors, solenoids, etc.) respond differently to reversed polarity than electronics (circuit boards).Do I have to worry about which wire from the battery goes to which end . . .
The ram would just run backwards, but I think the control circuit board would not work at all, and might get fried. I don't know whether a fluxgate compass is electric or electronic.
Any electrical engineers out there?
- mahalocd36
- Posts: 591
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 10:51
- Location: 1990 CD36 Mahalo #163
- Contact:
Yea it matters
Yes!Any electrical engineers out there?
My best guess would be that polarity IS important. My semi-educated opinion is get a copy of the owners manual and check the color code. Lacking a manual my first guess would be if you have a black and red wire the red wire is positive and the black wire is negative. Have you tried searching online for an owners manual? If all else fails you might try taking it apart, sometimes the circuit board will be marked where the wires connect.
BTW this is Rich not Melissa
Melissa Abato
www.sailmahalo.com
www.sailmahalo.com
- mahalocd36
- Posts: 591
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 10:51
- Location: 1990 CD36 Mahalo #163
- Contact:
- Joe Myerson
- Posts: 2216
- Joined: Feb 6th, '05, 11:22
- Location: s/v Creme Brulee, CD 25D, Hull #80, Squeteague Harbor, MA
Many thanks!/nm
n/m
Former Commodore, CDSOA
Former Captain, Northeast Fleet
S/V Crème Brûlée, CD 25D, Hull # 80
"What a greate matter it is to saile a shyppe or goe to sea."
--Capt. John Smith, 1627
Former Captain, Northeast Fleet
S/V Crème Brûlée, CD 25D, Hull # 80
"What a greate matter it is to saile a shyppe or goe to sea."
--Capt. John Smith, 1627
-
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Autopilot Test
Hi Joe,
Two things. You probably have/should have a diode(s) in the circuit(s) to prevent reverse polarity. The diode(s) allow current flow when hooked up with the correct polarity. They prevent current flow when hooked up in the incorrect, or reverse polarity. It could be considered an electric check valve.
You mention that you replaced a blown fuse. Have you done anything to correct the reason that caused the original fuse to blow? Perhaps the "new" fuse is also blown again.
Good luck.
Think spring,
O J
Two things. You probably have/should have a diode(s) in the circuit(s) to prevent reverse polarity. The diode(s) allow current flow when hooked up with the correct polarity. They prevent current flow when hooked up in the incorrect, or reverse polarity. It could be considered an electric check valve.
You mention that you replaced a blown fuse. Have you done anything to correct the reason that caused the original fuse to blow? Perhaps the "new" fuse is also blown again.
Good luck.
Think spring,
O J
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- Posts: 36
- Joined: Oct 24th, '05, 15:19
- Location: CD25 (#24), Allaire, Sarasota, Fl.
My Navico TP1600
Joe,
I too have an old Navico TP1600. It works well while motoring, but shouldn't be used under sail. It responds too slow. I use mine to keep course while setting and dropping sails. IT DOES MATTER which way you connect the power. It will blow the fuse if reversed. Get the correct fuse too. I'm not sure, but I think its a 5A fuse. Anything less that what you are suppose to have will blow. I tried a 1A once when I was out of 5A, and it blew within a few seconds. Keep plenty of extras aboard. I believe you can still download the owners manual from Simrad (Simrad.com). I took mine apart, greased the shaft to quiet it down some. Internally, it is a simple design. Good luck with your unit.
I too have an old Navico TP1600. It works well while motoring, but shouldn't be used under sail. It responds too slow. I use mine to keep course while setting and dropping sails. IT DOES MATTER which way you connect the power. It will blow the fuse if reversed. Get the correct fuse too. I'm not sure, but I think its a 5A fuse. Anything less that what you are suppose to have will blow. I tried a 1A once when I was out of 5A, and it blew within a few seconds. Keep plenty of extras aboard. I believe you can still download the owners manual from Simrad (Simrad.com). I took mine apart, greased the shaft to quiet it down some. Internally, it is a simple design. Good luck with your unit.