Question to any one who owns a CD25 with outboard well, I was just told that because of the size of the well opening which is approximatle 8 by 12 some many 4-stroke low HP motors will not fit, example the prop and lower foot length of the Yamaha 8HP High Trust. ( The prop is 11 7/8 a cross) Does anyone know of a list of outboards that will fit.
And is there a time limit to purchase a two stroke engine or are they all being phased out in favor of the 4-stroke engine.
Question, CD25 outboard well
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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tartansailor
- Posts: 1527
- Joined: Aug 30th, '05, 13:55
- Location: CD25, Renaissance, Milton, DE
Motor Well
Mike,
My 1975 CD25 sports an 8 hp Honda 4 banger. with the original factory prop. Slips in and out with ease.
I really think that the incremental weight aft is a drag on my sailing and would prefer something much lighter.
Dick
My 1975 CD25 sports an 8 hp Honda 4 banger. with the original factory prop. Slips in and out with ease.
I really think that the incremental weight aft is a drag on my sailing and would prefer something much lighter.
Dick
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Dick Fredricks
- Posts: 6
- Joined: Aug 21st, '05, 16:23
- Location: Cape Dory 25, Hull 810, GRAND VIEW, moored on the Severn River at Round Bay, Severna Park, MD.
CD 25 Outboard
Mike C:
Recommend that you acquire a Mercury 9.9 or 15 HP 2 stroke before they are no longer available. While not electric start, you can retrofit an alternator for battery charging. Most important, they fit in the well perfectly. Note that we acquired one via West Marine this past summer.
Dick
Recommend that you acquire a Mercury 9.9 or 15 HP 2 stroke before they are no longer available. While not electric start, you can retrofit an alternator for battery charging. Most important, they fit in the well perfectly. Note that we acquired one via West Marine this past summer.
Dick
Dick Fredricks
For what it's worth..
My CD 25 came with a new Yamaha 8/4-stroke crammed into the well and hung on the (I presume) original garbage aluminum angle (shape) brackets bolted to the sides of the well. The installer had made a mounting plate of 1/8" stainless sandwiched between two pieces of mahogany and thru-bolted together which was satisfactory, but it's a miracle that the entire thing never fell off because of those horrible angle brackets.
(I promise that I'll get to the point soon)
I replaced those brackets with 1/8" x 2"x 2" stainless angle, thru-bolted with three SS 3/8" bolts, heavy fender washers (inside) and am now confident of the installation.
In each side of the well I installed an 8" screw-hatch (gasketed, of course) for access to the backside for installing the nyloc nuts and thick fender washers. By the way, I plan on installing such an access THROUGH the cockpit sole for bilge pump suction access and bilge well clean-up.
Now, to the point. In order to remove and re-install the brute (motor), I first remove the tiller and shroud from the motor, disconnecting the battery FIRST, and remove the wiring. Next, I loosen the motor. I then remove the covers from the hatches in the well, loosen all the bolts, and remove the top two on each side. By doing so the entire mount can swing forward on the two bottom angle-bracket bolts and the motor, with many searing epitaphs and comments regarding lineage of those who design outboard-propelled sailing vessels, I am able to remove the antichrist with the prop still on the shaft and all the precursors of impending physical therapy evident.
In my rebuild of my vessel, (I strongly dislike her present name and will change it when she's re-christened) I will mount the lazarette cover upon a teak frame surrounding the well for the sake of clearance should I ultimately decide to keep the outboard. However, I am seriously considering disposing of gasoline propulsion altogether and enclosing the well. The trailing edge of the damn thing is a total drag, the weight over the counter is obnoxious and affects the trim of the vessel badly. May as well just drag a bucket astern when sailing~
It occurs to me that a right-angle drive mounted in the same place, penetrating the (new) bottom of the former well in a water-tight manner, powered by 36v of battery (there is an electical system available) running a motor will be more than sufficient.
Hmmmm....I could mount the right-angle drive in a packing gland and steer with it in reverse........
I am a weldor/fabricator in the commercial marine industries and a shade-tree machinist and am sure that I can, sooooooooo
Anyway, those are my thoughts on mechanical propulsion for my boat. Hopefully there's some usable info.
Skip
~It's best to find humility before humility finds you~ author unknown (to me)
(I promise that I'll get to the point soon)
I replaced those brackets with 1/8" x 2"x 2" stainless angle, thru-bolted with three SS 3/8" bolts, heavy fender washers (inside) and am now confident of the installation.
In each side of the well I installed an 8" screw-hatch (gasketed, of course) for access to the backside for installing the nyloc nuts and thick fender washers. By the way, I plan on installing such an access THROUGH the cockpit sole for bilge pump suction access and bilge well clean-up.
Now, to the point. In order to remove and re-install the brute (motor), I first remove the tiller and shroud from the motor, disconnecting the battery FIRST, and remove the wiring. Next, I loosen the motor. I then remove the covers from the hatches in the well, loosen all the bolts, and remove the top two on each side. By doing so the entire mount can swing forward on the two bottom angle-bracket bolts and the motor, with many searing epitaphs and comments regarding lineage of those who design outboard-propelled sailing vessels, I am able to remove the antichrist with the prop still on the shaft and all the precursors of impending physical therapy evident.
In my rebuild of my vessel, (I strongly dislike her present name and will change it when she's re-christened) I will mount the lazarette cover upon a teak frame surrounding the well for the sake of clearance should I ultimately decide to keep the outboard. However, I am seriously considering disposing of gasoline propulsion altogether and enclosing the well. The trailing edge of the damn thing is a total drag, the weight over the counter is obnoxious and affects the trim of the vessel badly. May as well just drag a bucket astern when sailing~
It occurs to me that a right-angle drive mounted in the same place, penetrating the (new) bottom of the former well in a water-tight manner, powered by 36v of battery (there is an electical system available) running a motor will be more than sufficient.
Hmmmm....I could mount the right-angle drive in a packing gland and steer with it in reverse........
I am a weldor/fabricator in the commercial marine industries and a shade-tree machinist and am sure that I can, sooooooooo
Anyway, those are my thoughts on mechanical propulsion for my boat. Hopefully there's some usable info.
Skip
~It's best to find humility before humility finds you~ author unknown (to me)
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Mike Johnson
- Posts: 91
- Joined: Oct 25th, '05, 13:35
CD 25 outboard motor
I have a 2002 Honda 8hp and it fits in the well perfect. The previous owner searched for that particular year because of the dimensions. He did a good job. I am pleased with it. I remove the tiller handle each time I have to move the engine. I keep the engine in the V-berth until needed and inbetween sailing days
bilge access
Skip,
you hit the nail on this one,
I too looked at the way my 8HP -4 stroke was installed and plan to be rid of it soon. The boat came with the motor, Its too big and at about 108 lbs. its far too heavy. Oh!!! for the days when we had those little two-stroke lite-weight motors.
But I have been trying to figure out the best way to have access to the bilge. What did you use or how did you seal the hole in the cockpit??
you hit the nail on this one,
I too looked at the way my 8HP -4 stroke was installed and plan to be rid of it soon. The boat came with the motor, Its too big and at about 108 lbs. its far too heavy. Oh!!! for the days when we had those little two-stroke lite-weight motors.
But I have been trying to figure out the best way to have access to the bilge. What did you use or how did you seal the hole in the cockpit??
I'll buy (southern translation: "amo git")
Since I am a southern dude~
Reckon this orter be ar new post?..A'm new an' aon't know.
Mike,
I'll get a high-quality flush mounted threaded hatch for the cockpit sole; probably eight inches in diameter. That should be sufficient to do what I want to use it for.
While doing all that stuff the bilge pump needs a check valve too. I have NO faith in that built-in one in the manual pump. A sea-cock in that line is in the works as well.
I'm really puzzling about this electric propulsion business. It intrigues me. We have a 54lb thrust trolling motor on our Compac 16 which is plenty.
Skip
fergit spailchaik
Reckon this orter be ar new post?..A'm new an' aon't know.
Mike,
I'll get a high-quality flush mounted threaded hatch for the cockpit sole; probably eight inches in diameter. That should be sufficient to do what I want to use it for.
While doing all that stuff the bilge pump needs a check valve too. I have NO faith in that built-in one in the manual pump. A sea-cock in that line is in the works as well.
I'm really puzzling about this electric propulsion business. It intrigues me. We have a 54lb thrust trolling motor on our Compac 16 which is plenty.
Skip
fergit spailchaik