I’m in the midst of some winter brightwork refinishing and I’ve hit a roadblock trying to remove the Lewmar primary winches our 36. Both are affixed to hefty teak pads on either side of cockpit comings. The screws mounting the bases of the winches are impossible (so far) to remove – I fear the PO bedded same in 5200. Short of drilling cutting/drilling off the heads and shifting the whole deal a few degrees when I remount, does anybody have any tricks to getting these fasteners out. I don’t think I’ve got enough room to inject 5200 remover under the head of the screw. I haven’t tried heat yet, but I was headed there.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Brett
Tough Fasteners
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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- Posts: 23
- Joined: Feb 9th, '05, 19:45
- Location: CD36, Sublimation
West River, MD
- Matt Cawthorne
- Posts: 355
- Joined: Mar 2nd, '05, 17:33
- Location: CD 36, 1982
Hull # 79
Been there, don't pull them & ergo mouse
Brett,
If you CD36 is like mine, you can find the nuts on the other ends of those primary winch bolts on the inside of the boat. One set is in the quarterberth. It is more of a hassle to demount those winches than it is worth. That is, unless there is a leak. The good news is that they are not mounted with screws, but through bolted.
BTW I logged on to try my new ergonomic mouse that Santa delivered last night. It is much better than my previous one. Hopefully the carpal tunnel thing will go away before I start my bright work.
Matt
If you CD36 is like mine, you can find the nuts on the other ends of those primary winch bolts on the inside of the boat. One set is in the quarterberth. It is more of a hassle to demount those winches than it is worth. That is, unless there is a leak. The good news is that they are not mounted with screws, but through bolted.
BTW I logged on to try my new ergonomic mouse that Santa delivered last night. It is much better than my previous one. Hopefully the carpal tunnel thing will go away before I start my bright work.
Matt
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- Posts: 23
- Joined: Feb 9th, '05, 19:45
- Location: CD36, Sublimation
West River, MD
Doh!
Mmmmmmmmm, through bolts. Makes perfect sense. How Homer-esque of me. Good thing I didn't put the Sawzall to it.
Good luck with the new mouse. You still have couple of months to rehab your hands before the cycle begins again.
Thx. much.
Brett
Good luck with the new mouse. You still have couple of months to rehab your hands before the cycle begins again.
Thx. much.
Brett
- Joe Myerson
- Posts: 2216
- Joined: Feb 6th, '05, 11:22
- Location: s/v Creme Brulee, CD 25D, Hull #80, Squeteague Harbor, MA
Carpal Tunnel
Matt:
Good luck with the Christmas mouse.
You also might want to try a mouse pad with a squishy wrist rest. I spend 8 or more hours a day on my computer, and I was getting "mouse wrist."
The mouse pad with the wrist rest (rist wrest?) worked wonders.
--Joe Myerson
Good luck with the Christmas mouse.
You also might want to try a mouse pad with a squishy wrist rest. I spend 8 or more hours a day on my computer, and I was getting "mouse wrist."
The mouse pad with the wrist rest (rist wrest?) worked wonders.
--Joe Myerson
Sears
Brett
If you head over to Sears ( or any major tool manufacturer - SnapOn, Mac, etc ) they have something called an "impact driver" that usually comes in 3/8 or 1/2 inch drive . It is a device about the size of your fist that translates a sharp blow with a hammer to a twisting motion. I've used mine ( 3/8 drive so screw driver sockets are readily available ) regularly for 30 some odd years when I couldn't or didn't want to use heat on a corroded/frozen fastener. Caution - since they work by the force a hammer blow I always make sure the intended object is stationary which occasionally means putting a large ( read that as much mass ) behind the object you're working on so you don't shatter things like the teak coaming when you strike the blow !
Good Luck
If you head over to Sears ( or any major tool manufacturer - SnapOn, Mac, etc ) they have something called an "impact driver" that usually comes in 3/8 or 1/2 inch drive . It is a device about the size of your fist that translates a sharp blow with a hammer to a twisting motion. I've used mine ( 3/8 drive so screw driver sockets are readily available ) regularly for 30 some odd years when I couldn't or didn't want to use heat on a corroded/frozen fastener. Caution - since they work by the force a hammer blow I always make sure the intended object is stationary which occasionally means putting a large ( read that as much mass ) behind the object you're working on so you don't shatter things like the teak coaming when you strike the blow !
Good Luck