Finally, time to put the brushes and rollers (and the sander!) down.
Pinup goes back in the water this week.
Here is here a "during" picture
[img]http://mac01-ha339.math.ncsu.edu/~grema ... 2_tiny.JPG[/img]
and an "after" picture
[img]http://mac01-ha339.math.ncsu.edu/~grema ... 6_tiny.JPG[/img]
Dont have "before" pictures handy but those were sad anyway. The cabin is still a mess, but I cant stand waiting for a good sail any longer.
Pierre
CD #146
Washington, NC
cd 25 pix
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Pierre Gremaud
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Feb 7th, '05, 15:46
- Location: CD 25 #146, Pin-Up and Sabre 36, Grayce, Belhaven, NC
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Carter Brey
- Posts: 709
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 12:02
- Location: 1982 Sabre 28 Mk II #532 "Delphine"
City Island, New York - Contact:
cd25 pix
Pierre,
That's one gorgeous-looking vessel. Nice work. Happy sailing!
Carter
That's one gorgeous-looking vessel. Nice work. Happy sailing!
Carter
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Brad Smith
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Feb 6th, '05, 09:53
- Location: Second Wind CD-25 Bohemia River MD
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Arlene t. Papp
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Dec 20th, '05, 15:23
- Location: Cape Dory 25, Metaphor, Groton, MA
Beautiful!
Great finish on your boat.
Can you tell where the design water-line is suppose to be; the reason I'm asking is that I would like to have my boat painted also.
Cheers
Arlene
Can you tell where the design water-line is suppose to be; the reason I'm asking is that I would like to have my boat painted also.
Cheers
Arlene
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winthrop fisher
- Posts: 837
- Joined: Feb 7th, '05, 17:52
- Location: Typhoon Wk 75 "Easy Rider" &
cd 22 "Easy Rider Sr" 84
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Dick Barthel
- Posts: 901
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 10:29
- Location: Dream Weaver, CD25D, Noank, CT
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Oswego John
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Maintaining Original Waterline
First off, I want to compliment Pierre on his good looking boat. Real spiffy.
Until Pierre tells you of his method of maintaining the original waterline, I'll mention a few things that others can do that I have done in the past.
The most important first step is to get the boat level at all the planes. Bow to stern, port to stb'd. It's easier to level the boat if it is on a trailer. Bow to stern leveling is accomplished by use of the tongue jack. Port to stb'd by jacking the side of the trailer frame.
You can lay a straight edge across the cockpit , resting on either coaming board. Lay a bubble, spirit level on the straight edge and adjust accordingly.
To level the bow and stern plane, I have found that the most accurate method was by the use of a water level.
I take plenty of pictures before starting, to use later as a reference.
Measure from the rub rail down to the top of the boot stripe in many places and note them in a pad. I use a Dremel tool with an abrasive wheel to grind (wince) small marks along the upper margin of the bootstripe, every so often. They can later be filled in.
Whatever width you decide the bootstripe should be, it will be that width midship. However, as the stripe nears the bow or stern, the hull has more curvature , and for the stripe to be equal width to the distant eye, at these places the stripe should widen to appear equal along the entire waterline.
Since the boat has been made level earlier, I allow for the changing width of the stripe by the use of a rotating laser level (Harbor Freight, about $15.00) to mark the lower edge of the stripe
Sounds complicated? After you do it a few times, it becomes a piece of cake. Just think of the megabucks you will save by becoming a DIYer.
Good luck,
O J
Did you ever get the feeling that you left something important out?
Until Pierre tells you of his method of maintaining the original waterline, I'll mention a few things that others can do that I have done in the past.
The most important first step is to get the boat level at all the planes. Bow to stern, port to stb'd. It's easier to level the boat if it is on a trailer. Bow to stern leveling is accomplished by use of the tongue jack. Port to stb'd by jacking the side of the trailer frame.
You can lay a straight edge across the cockpit , resting on either coaming board. Lay a bubble, spirit level on the straight edge and adjust accordingly.
To level the bow and stern plane, I have found that the most accurate method was by the use of a water level.
I take plenty of pictures before starting, to use later as a reference.
Measure from the rub rail down to the top of the boot stripe in many places and note them in a pad. I use a Dremel tool with an abrasive wheel to grind (wince) small marks along the upper margin of the bootstripe, every so often. They can later be filled in.
Whatever width you decide the bootstripe should be, it will be that width midship. However, as the stripe nears the bow or stern, the hull has more curvature , and for the stripe to be equal width to the distant eye, at these places the stripe should widen to appear equal along the entire waterline.
Since the boat has been made level earlier, I allow for the changing width of the stripe by the use of a rotating laser level (Harbor Freight, about $15.00) to mark the lower edge of the stripe
Sounds complicated? After you do it a few times, it becomes a piece of cake. Just think of the megabucks you will save by becoming a DIYer.
Good luck,
O J
Did you ever get the feeling that you left something important out?
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Oswego John
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Marking Water Line
Oooops. I did leave something out
The poorman's method of marking the existing water line is to just use the Dremel and groove top and bottom of the stripe every so often.
This saves a lot of leveling and hassle.
O J
The poorman's method of marking the existing water line is to just use the Dremel and groove top and bottom of the stripe every so often.
This saves a lot of leveling and hassle.
O J
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slaume
Water lines
On the dinghies I have restored, I floated them in a small pond on a warm, calm day. I would then wade in quietly with a large foam block, a soft pencil and some spacers. It is a very precise method of fixing a water line. It is also fast, fool proof and fun if you are able to float and retrieve the boat. It eliminates all the tedium of leveling and measurements. Not an option in New England this time of year, Steve.
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Dave Brandt
- Posts: 92
- Joined: Feb 14th, '05, 18:33
- Location: CD-25, #378, "Prairie"
Rochester, MN - Contact:
Nice Work!
Very nice! Thanks for posting the photos.
Dave
Dave
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Tom M
Water Lines
Steve
I can appreciate your idea of putting a dinghy in a nice small pond on a nice warm day and carefully marking the waterline with a pencil
However most of the responders were owners of 25 foot or larger boats. Its quite another thing to float and retrieve a boat of this size or larger. Costly too.
So does anyone know of a fast foolproof fun way to mark the waterline on a larger boat and avoid the tedium of leveling and measurements. Im thinking of doing my boat this spring.
Tom
I can appreciate your idea of putting a dinghy in a nice small pond on a nice warm day and carefully marking the waterline with a pencil
However most of the responders were owners of 25 foot or larger boats. Its quite another thing to float and retrieve a boat of this size or larger. Costly too.
So does anyone know of a fast foolproof fun way to mark the waterline on a larger boat and avoid the tedium of leveling and measurements. Im thinking of doing my boat this spring.
Tom
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barfwinkle
- Posts: 2169
- Joined: Feb 6th, '05, 10:34
- Location: S/V Rhapsody CD25D
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slaume
It's gonna be tedious
I am afraid if it is not floating it is going to be tedious. You could set up stations at intervals along the rail and mark strips of tape from the rail to the existing water line, labeled as to the correct station. This would eliminate the need to level the boat but it would still be tedious and not much fun. The best method may be a combination of techniques. If you measured some stations and marked a tape or flexible spline of wood you could then check your level and use a laser without scoring the gel coat. If you established the water line in a few places by measuring and using the spline then you could set up the laser and adjust it to match the lines no matter how the boat was sitting. I wonder how it was done when lasers were several hundred dollars or before. It could still be fun, Steve.
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Oswego John
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Water Line
Hi, (again)
I don't mean to be a boor but there are some things that I feel should be explained to a greater depth.
I've been using a water level for well over sixty years now. It is so simple to make and use and always maintains it's accuracy. Mine is a piece of garden hose with a piece of glass tube clamped in each end. Water will, if not impeded, always seek it's own level. Don Casey's method, as mentioned by Bill-N-Ok will work just as well. It all depends on the material you have hanging around the house.
Unroll the hose and lay it on the ground as flat as possible.. Stick a small funnel into one glass tube. While holding both tubes side by side, fill the system with water, clear or dyed, until the water appears in both tubes. Make sure there are no bubbles or air pockets in the hose. We used to stick corks (remember them) in the tubes to contain the water in the system when moving around. Now we use plastic slip on caps. Hold one tube's water on the elevation and move the other tube anywhere you want on the hull and mark the watermark spot. That's where the term watermark comes from. Not to be confused with stationary water mark.
I realize that some people winced when I said to mark the waterline with a Dremel wheel. Actually, you nick the gelcoat, not going all the way through it. Sometimes, when no power is available, I make the marks with a Sharpie fine point, water resistant, permanent marker. The use of a Sharpie may set better with some of the readers.
I'm sure that there are many more ways to mark the waterline. This method that I mention works for me. It will be as accurate as you make it. But of course, use any method that works for you.
I'm sorry to say that I don't know how to make the water or laser level perform as it should if the hull isn't level x-x and y-y. Especially so when compensating for the width of the line as it approaches the bow and stern. But in reality, leveling the hull isn't that big a deal. Is it tedious, not to me. Is it fun, not really. It's all in a days work.
O J
I don't mean to be a boor but there are some things that I feel should be explained to a greater depth.
I've been using a water level for well over sixty years now. It is so simple to make and use and always maintains it's accuracy. Mine is a piece of garden hose with a piece of glass tube clamped in each end. Water will, if not impeded, always seek it's own level. Don Casey's method, as mentioned by Bill-N-Ok will work just as well. It all depends on the material you have hanging around the house.
Unroll the hose and lay it on the ground as flat as possible.. Stick a small funnel into one glass tube. While holding both tubes side by side, fill the system with water, clear or dyed, until the water appears in both tubes. Make sure there are no bubbles or air pockets in the hose. We used to stick corks (remember them) in the tubes to contain the water in the system when moving around. Now we use plastic slip on caps. Hold one tube's water on the elevation and move the other tube anywhere you want on the hull and mark the watermark spot. That's where the term watermark comes from. Not to be confused with stationary water mark.
I realize that some people winced when I said to mark the waterline with a Dremel wheel. Actually, you nick the gelcoat, not going all the way through it. Sometimes, when no power is available, I make the marks with a Sharpie fine point, water resistant, permanent marker. The use of a Sharpie may set better with some of the readers.
I'm sure that there are many more ways to mark the waterline. This method that I mention works for me. It will be as accurate as you make it. But of course, use any method that works for you.
I'm sorry to say that I don't know how to make the water or laser level perform as it should if the hull isn't level x-x and y-y. Especially so when compensating for the width of the line as it approaches the bow and stern. But in reality, leveling the hull isn't that big a deal. Is it tedious, not to me. Is it fun, not really. It's all in a days work.
O J