Miranda is happily under her tent with all deck hardware removed. Before I get too carried away chopping up the deck (which was quite enjoyable after the first very painful and squishy cut), I need advice from someone with experience.
Do I need to get the deck jacked back up to level BEFORE I remove the top layer of the deck where the core is rotten or AFTER?
It seems like it would make more sense to have the deck be less rigid while being raised (I need to go up @ 3"). The coachhouse is relatively solid but the bow deck is at least 60% delaminated.
Any advice would be appreciated before I make a disasterous mistake!
Bly
Order of Operations - Typhoon deck recore question...
Moderator: bobdugan
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Rollergirl
- Posts: 87
- Joined: May 21st, '05, 14:27
- Location: Flying Scott, Sunfish
Yeah, pump it up
Once the upper layer and the old rotten core is out you will have a very flexible layer to rebuild. Jack it up first so you don't have to guess your way to a correct deck shape, like I did (don't ask).
Please consider that if the deck is rotted, the cabin top has a problem too. The cabin top is hollow in many places, and bonded with a structural foam that was squirted in during the assembly of the deck, liner and hull. There a a lot of voids, and this is actualy not much to concern yourself with, but...
The mast step area has a cross beam of wood that is penetrated by the mast step bolts, and that was not sealed by the CD factory very well. I'll bet it's wet.
Were I you, I would brace the deck up, repair the core, let it cure a week and cut out the mast step area from underneath.
Remove the crossbeam, replace and epoxy the skin back on.
It's complex, and difficult working from underneath, but I think that you will have a more sound repair by keeping the original contours intact.
When you are doing the deck pay particular attention to the area inside and just forward (up to 12") of the chainplates. This seems to be a common stress point. Even hairline cracks ( usually running front to rear) can indicate laminate failure. You may want to consider heaver FRP layers and thinner core here to repair the lower layer. You may consider crosswise carbon fibre above the lower layer.
Have fun. I did. Fix it right once and you will have it forever.
Bill
Please consider that if the deck is rotted, the cabin top has a problem too. The cabin top is hollow in many places, and bonded with a structural foam that was squirted in during the assembly of the deck, liner and hull. There a a lot of voids, and this is actualy not much to concern yourself with, but...
The mast step area has a cross beam of wood that is penetrated by the mast step bolts, and that was not sealed by the CD factory very well. I'll bet it's wet.
Were I you, I would brace the deck up, repair the core, let it cure a week and cut out the mast step area from underneath.
Remove the crossbeam, replace and epoxy the skin back on.
It's complex, and difficult working from underneath, but I think that you will have a more sound repair by keeping the original contours intact.
When you are doing the deck pay particular attention to the area inside and just forward (up to 12") of the chainplates. This seems to be a common stress point. Even hairline cracks ( usually running front to rear) can indicate laminate failure. You may want to consider heaver FRP layers and thinner core here to repair the lower layer. You may consider crosswise carbon fibre above the lower layer.
Have fun. I did. Fix it right once and you will have it forever.
Bill
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winthrop fisher
- Posts: 837
- Joined: Feb 7th, '05, 17:52
- Location: Typhoon Wk 75 "Easy Rider" &
cd 22 "Easy Rider Sr" 84
Hi... 
yes i have done that as well, with other boats.
what i did was pretty much the same, but first.
take four or five pieces 1 x 2 and cut to lengh, as wide as the boat on the inside,
starting at the bow on the inside, measure two feet from the bow and put a 1 x 2 and fiber glass it in to place using fiber glass and cloth,
do that ever foot until you get to the other end.
then let it dry over night, thats day one.
go out to the deck and cut out the outer layer of fiber glass only, do not thru it away, you will be putting it back later (at the end).
then remove all the core rot and make sure you remove all the dark wood until it gets lighter in color, thats the good wood.
then put marine wood in its place, make sure it fits right.
then put two layers of fiber glass only on all of it, no cloth and let it dry for an hour.
then go back and put the outer layer over it to see if it is level,
if not, then take it off and put more fiber glass inside, until its level.
then when the outer layer is in place, fiber glass it into place and if need be use two inch wide strip of cloth all the way around the out side edge, leave it over night.
the next day sand it, then prime it in morning and what six hours and then paint it later.
and make sure the temperature is around 60 degrees and above, only.
it only takes a long weekend to fix it, have fun and take your time.
if you have any questions just ask.
winthrop
yes i have done that as well, with other boats.
what i did was pretty much the same, but first.
take four or five pieces 1 x 2 and cut to lengh, as wide as the boat on the inside,
starting at the bow on the inside, measure two feet from the bow and put a 1 x 2 and fiber glass it in to place using fiber glass and cloth,
do that ever foot until you get to the other end.
then let it dry over night, thats day one.
go out to the deck and cut out the outer layer of fiber glass only, do not thru it away, you will be putting it back later (at the end).
then remove all the core rot and make sure you remove all the dark wood until it gets lighter in color, thats the good wood.
then put marine wood in its place, make sure it fits right.
then put two layers of fiber glass only on all of it, no cloth and let it dry for an hour.
then go back and put the outer layer over it to see if it is level,
if not, then take it off and put more fiber glass inside, until its level.
then when the outer layer is in place, fiber glass it into place and if need be use two inch wide strip of cloth all the way around the out side edge, leave it over night.
the next day sand it, then prime it in morning and what six hours and then paint it later.
and make sure the temperature is around 60 degrees and above, only.
it only takes a long weekend to fix it, have fun and take your time.
if you have any questions just ask.
winthrop
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bhartley
- Posts: 449
- Joined: Aug 23rd, '05, 09:26
- Location: Sea Sprite #527 "Ariel"
CD25D #184 "Pyxis"
CDSOA Member #785
Thanks
Thanks to both of you for the suggestions. I'll try to get it to the right level before removing the upper layer and rotten core.
Unfortunately, the top layer is not reusable so it will have to be reglassed. She will be beautiful and solid again by spring, but there's a reason she was so cheap!
Cheers!
Unfortunately, the top layer is not reusable so it will have to be reglassed. She will be beautiful and solid again by spring, but there's a reason she was so cheap!
Cheers!
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winthrop fisher
- Posts: 837
- Joined: Feb 7th, '05, 17:52
- Location: Typhoon Wk 75 "Easy Rider" &
cd 22 "Easy Rider Sr" 84
Hi....
then it will be easy just put three coats of fiber glass than the cloth over it and three coats over that and let it sit over night and prime it and paint it.
two or three day job that way.
but when you go to do it, all fiber glass is done all together in one day, never over days thats the hard way.
winthrop
then it will be easy just put three coats of fiber glass than the cloth over it and three coats over that and let it sit over night and prime it and paint it.
two or three day job that way.
but when you go to do it, all fiber glass is done all together in one day, never over days thats the hard way.
winthrop