As a new owner of a CD33 I'll be full of questions. Here is the first.
I took possession of the boat, hull #65 on 6/3. I spent the weekend getting her ready for transport from NH to MN. I also took time to gain familiarity with the systems, in particular the head and holding tank.
The boat will be on the Mississippi where it widens out to become Lake Peppin. It's a requirement of my marina that the overboard discharge from the head be sealed. I am concerned about this because forcing a wood plug into the thru hull may cause the seacock to be kept open. Instead I am hoping that completely removing the Y valve and running one hose from the head to the holding tank will be good enough. For the thru hull/seacock I will connect another hose and run it from the seacock, over the holding tank, under the engine and then curve it upward to cap and secure the hose ABOVE the waterline close to the fuel tank.
Here is my question. As a last step I will secure the seacock, but I am not familiar with its workings. The head discharge seacock is different then any of the other seacocks on the boat. This one has a cylinder shape that "lays against the hull". On one end there is a small T handle that can be screwed in and out of the side of the cylinder and a lever on the other end of the cylinder that felt much like a "normal" valve on a seacock when it was moved (about a 50 degree sweep). Can anyone tell me what the gate mechanism actually is in this seacock and what the small T handle is for?
Thanks!
Rick Robinson
Ananda
CD33 #65
Rick@citycom.com
Head Seacock on CD33
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Re: Head Seacock on CD33
Rick,
I sail on a lake also and have the same requirements re: head discharge overboard as you describe. I also re-plumbed my head the same way you talk about. Ran the head discharge straight to the holding tank, removed the y-valve, and capped the seacock with a 3 foot piece of hose terminated in a fabracated pvc plug (above the water line). I did not use a wooden plug at the seacock.
As for the seacock you describe, it sounds like the side t-handle is used to adjust friction, and disassemble for cleaning. What manufacture is this seacock? Is there anything written on it? You may also want to contact Spartan Marine and see if they will send you a catalog, they have some good illistrations of their seacock.
Good luck,
John Martin
CD28 #346 Intrepid
john.martin.2@worldnet.att.net
I sail on a lake also and have the same requirements re: head discharge overboard as you describe. I also re-plumbed my head the same way you talk about. Ran the head discharge straight to the holding tank, removed the y-valve, and capped the seacock with a 3 foot piece of hose terminated in a fabracated pvc plug (above the water line). I did not use a wooden plug at the seacock.
As for the seacock you describe, it sounds like the side t-handle is used to adjust friction, and disassemble for cleaning. What manufacture is this seacock? Is there anything written on it? You may also want to contact Spartan Marine and see if they will send you a catalog, they have some good illistrations of their seacock.
Good luck,
John Martin
CD28 #346 Intrepid
john.martin.2@worldnet.att.net
Re: Head Seacock on CD33
Congratulations on choosing the CD33. We have only had ours a couple of years and have really been glad of our choice.Rick Robinson wrote: ...cylinder shape that "lays against the hull". On one end there is a small T handle that can be screwed in and out of the side of the cylinder and a lever on the other end of the cylinder that felt much like a "normal" valve on a seacock when it was moved (about a 50 degree sweep). Can anyone tell me what the gate mechanism actually is in this seacock and what the small T handle is for?
Our hull is #94 and I am guessing that we are not very different.
When we bought ours, there was a Y valve with discharge that we believe was added by the owner. We chose to remove it altogether and had the hull glassed over.
The valve you describe sounds like one made by Groco. That valve has a flexible cylinder instead of the traditional bronze. The T handle drives a circular plate on the end of the cylinder that causes the cylinder to bulge out. This allows for a very tight seal without having to relap the valve. Conceivably, one could loosen the T to make it easy to open and close the valve and alternately could tighten the T to make it nearly impossible to open the valve.
Hope this helps.
Al
albertlevesque@cove.com