CD 25 - Ash strip interior

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Mike Johnson
Posts: 91
Joined: Oct 25th, '05, 13:35

CD 25 - Ash strip interior

Post by Mike Johnson »

On Monday, the 31st, I pull my CD-25 out of the water and commence my off season to-do list. One of those items is to ash stip the interior. I am looking for comments and suggestions from all on the merits, how-to, source of materials, good references for the do it your selfer, should i epoxy and screw them in place, etc etc. Also looking for thoughts on doing the cabin interior overhead in the same. I will update the forum as the project progresses. Other projects for the fall/winter/spring are:
1. Bronze opening ports
2. Hinge the stove shelf
3. Upgrade the interior cabin lights
4. Replace cushions
5. Add a dodger
6. Add an auto pilot
7. Replace foam in step cooler
8. Add spice rack, mag rack, kitchen knife rack
9. replace engine cowlings with larger, bronze cowlings
10. Redo engine locker top in Teak
11. Redo Teak on exterior
12. touch up work on exterior, clean, polish, wax.
13. Add deeper lip to existing shelves and add dividers.
14. relocate marine radio, install stereo with speakers
15. install foot pump for sink, new sink features
16. Replace forward hatch, add solar/dc powered fan

I will document all this from a before, during and after process. would love any comments for any of these projects
s calder
Posts: 82
Joined: Feb 7th, '05, 00:57
Location: CD 25 #569 Falcon, Lake Granby, Colorado

Winter projects

Post by s calder »

Mike: Are you planning to install the original Spartan opening ports? Please post a follow-up on whether Spartan is still making them...I heard a rumor that Spartan was winding-down operations. What year is your boat? Are you replacing just the forward 4 or the big aft port as well? With all those projects, let me know if you need the name of a good divorce lawyer. :roll:
S. Calder sv Falcon
Mike Johnson
Posts: 91
Joined: Oct 25th, '05, 13:35

ports

Post by Mike Johnson »

I was going to use New Found Metal ports. Was not aware of any manufacturer of ports large enough for the rear ports, so I was planning on filling in the ports and cutting new ports for the two rear. I have a 1979 CD-25. Your thoughts?
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Cathy Monaghan
Posts: 3503
Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 08:17
Location: 1986 CD32 Realization #3, Rahway, NJ, Raritan Bay -- CDSOA Member since 2000. Greenline 39 Electra
Contact:

Re: Winter projects

Post by Cathy Monaghan »

s calder wrote:Mike: Are you planning to install the original Spartan opening ports? Please post a follow-up on whether Spartan is still making them...I heard a rumor that Spartan was winding-down operations. What year is your boat? Are you replacing just the forward 4 or the big aft port as well? With all those projects, let me know if you need the name of a good divorce lawyer. :roll:
FYI:

Yes, Spartan is still in business and still makes the bronze ports found on Cape Dorys built after 1979 (at least that's when I think they started using them). BUT, they did not manufacture the ports that were used on the original CD25s, and you won't find a Spartan bronze port that will fit such a large opening. Their largest ports will fit a 17-1/4" x 5-1/4" opening.

Spartan Marine Hardware

I do think that New Found Metals would be a good choice. I haven't any experience with them, but I have seen their products at the boat shows and they do appear to be of very good quality.

The following resources might help:

Visit this page for a list of manufacturers of ports and hatches.

For a list of manufacturers of the "most asked about products" found on Cape Dorys, visit the "Parts & Supplies" section on our "Where to Look" page.

You'll also find a list of manufacturers of original equipment[compiled from a few of the owners manuals (Typhoon, CD22, 27, 28 and 30) and is by no means complete], in the "Parts & Supplies" section under "Where to Look" in the main menu.

Good luck with your project,
Cathy
CDSOA Webmaster
CD32 Realization, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay
<a href="http://www.capedory.org/"><img src="http://www.capedory.org/images/cdsoa_logo.jpg"></a>
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Carter Brey
Posts: 709
Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 12:02
Location: 1982 Sabre 28 Mk II #532 "Delphine"
City Island, New York
Contact:

Opening ports, etc

Post by Carter Brey »

This is a photo of the interior of Jim Stull's 1975 CD25; his was perhaps the most amazing reworking of a 25 I've ever seen. He glassed over the old deadlights in his boat and installed these beautiful portlights, which are not Spartan OEM, but something else. I prefer the kind of dogs you see in this photo; they give you a better mechanical advantage than the Spartan hand-bruisers.

He has since sold up to a 27-- I'm not sure how to contact him, as I haven't seen him on the board in a while, but he'd be a great source of information for your project.

<img width="540" src="http://www.yachttantalus.com/Other%20Bo ... ueSink.jpg">

This is the link to John Ring's CD25 history page, at the end of which you'll find this and other images of "Segue," as well as Jim's description of his customization work.

http://www.yachttantalus.com/CD25%20History.htm

Good luck, and do watch out for the divorce lawyer.

CB
The size of the image within this posting has been restricted by the webmaster. Please see the Stickys in the About this Board forum for instructions.

Thanks,
Cathy
CDSOA Webmaster
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Marc Theriault
Posts: 85
Joined: Feb 6th, '05, 18:05
Location: Contessa 26 s/v Sun Wave Lake Champlain NY/VT

Reply to Carter and Cathy

Post by Marc Theriault »

Carter this is a port from New Found Metal and Cathy i used them for my Alberg 22 i had a lot of support from them and the product is good.

I will say that Spartan look better but like Carter said the dogs of NFM are a easy and fast to open or close.

At my opinion the ports from NFM offert a better setup for the installation because the two parts of the port are screw together and doing this you get a strong setup with the fiberglass.I never install a Spartan port but i received the"how do" from them and the inside part of the port is srew on the fiberglass and the same for the exterior part so in fact they are not lock together.
I can add that the way they choose must be good too because we don't hear often that their ports leaks.

I tried with Spartan when i was on that project but Spartan told me that they don't keep inventory and they made them only on request so expect a delay if you go with Spartan.

Marc
Mike Johnson
Posts: 91
Joined: Oct 25th, '05, 13:35

Ports for Cd-25

Post by Mike Johnson »

Thanks Cathy for the reply, info and suggested reading. Also for your work here on this site. Carter, your boat was the reason I decided to purchase a CD-25 a year ago. I am honored for your reply and had I known yours would be up for sale, it would be a done deal now. Mark, thanks for the confidence in NFM. I think I will be pleased with them. I like their design also.
Ron M.
Posts: 1037
Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 11:32
Location: CD30c Harwich,Ma.

Insulate

Post by Ron M. »

Mike, you certainly have an ambitious off season planned.
Installing ceiling is a good idea and not difficult.Consider lnsulation between the liner and ash.It will make a noticable difference in the amount of condensation that accumulates from temperature fluctuations and keep the cabin a bit cooler/warmer.That foil material sold in rolls works well or even that thin styrofoam used under vinal siding.Glue appropiately thick spacers to the liner and screw you ash to them.
________
WILHELM HOFMEISTER (AUTOMOBILE DESIGNER)
Last edited by Ron M. on Feb 11th, '11, 05:12, edited 1 time in total.
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Tod Mills
Posts: 349
Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 12:00

looking forward to your progress....

Post by Tod Mills »

If you don't already have them, books like Dan Spurr's "Upgrading the Cruising Sailboat", Don Casey's "This Old Boat", and others can provide some good ideas. Both of those I mentioned talk about installing ceilings

Image
Tod Mills
Montgomery 17 "BuscaBrisas", Sandusky, OH (with trips elsewhere)
Tartan 26 project boat
Cape Dory admirer
Dave Brandt
Posts: 92
Joined: Feb 14th, '05, 18:33
Location: CD-25, #378, "Prairie"
Rochester, MN
Contact:

WInter Projects.......

Post by Dave Brandt »

Hi Mike,

I have completed some of the projects you are contemplating, there are photos at:

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/debhgxc/album?.dir=c15e

If you have specific questions, let me know, be glad to help.

Dave

P.S. I am at three years on my project ( very understanding wife! )
Paul Grecay
Posts: 105
Joined: Oct 13th, '05, 06:57
Location: CD 28 1976 "Peapod"
Lewes, Delaware

Opening ports

Post by Paul Grecay »

Mike,

I have a CD 28...1976...it was one of the old "no frills" edition and had lousy plastic ports which were badly checking and leaked like crazy. I took the plunge and replaced them all with NewFound Metal ports and I love 'em. They never leak a drop...they are clear and clean and easy to open. In addition, the aft port is quite large and is really wonderful for ventilation. I highly recommend them.

Paul Grecay
CD 28 "Peapod"
Lewes, Delaware
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winthrop fisher
Posts: 837
Joined: Feb 7th, '05, 17:52
Location: Typhoon Wk 75 "Easy Rider" &
cd 22 "Easy Rider Sr" 84

Re: CD 25 - Ash strip interior

Post by winthrop fisher »

Hey Mike, :wink:

your list is like mine was a seven years ago on the things to do.

1. on the interior i used teak all around, but not the whole ceiling.

2. i bronze opening ports were new and waxed on the interior, so they would look good.

3. gat a marina catalogia for all your hardware and ever thing else.

4. look at all the new lights, they may cost more, but they are well worth buying.

5. your cushions try cleaning them first or get new ones from jsi.

6. i got my new dodger from island nautical canvas, they do excellent work, besides if you get it in the winter they will give you 15% off.

7. ray marina auto pilot, thats the one ever one gets.

8. you can get foam in a cans, its around $70 for two parts, quarts. and it works good.

9. all the kitchen stuff is in teak you can get thru marina stores on sale, if you look around.

10. larger cowlings for your engine you can get beckson solar vents or get the ones you wants or you can use both, i did.

11. using teak around your engine it looks so much better, i made a teak hatch above it, looks like your main hatch.

12. don't sand your teak use star brite teak cleaner on all of it, it works much better.

13. i use all star brite products on ever thing on board and no wax, just polish it looks better.

14. here are three good books, that will help you with ever thing on board.

take the mystery out of boat maintenance by lawrence a diamond.

optimise your cruising sail boat by john roberts. excellent book.

why didn't i think of that by john and susan roberts. 1198 tips.

all three of these books are very well written and helpful to all sailors.

have fun doing all the work, it can cost allot, but take your time.
winthrop


Mike Johnson wrote:On Monday, the 31st, I pull my CD-25 out of the water and commence my off season to-do list. One of those items is to ash stip the interior. I am looking for comments and suggestions from all on the merits, how-to, source of materials, good references for the do it your selfer, should i epoxy and screw them in place, etc etc. Also looking for thoughts on doing the cabin interior overhead in the same. I will update the forum as the project progresses. Other projects for the fall/winter/spring are:
1. Bronze opening ports
2. Hinge the stove shelf
3. Upgrade the interior cabin lights
4. Replace cushions
5. Add a dodger
6. Add an auto pilot
7. Replace foam in step cooler
8. Add spice rack, mag rack, kitchen knife rack
9. replace engine cowlings with larger, bronze cowlings
10. Redo engine locker top in Teak
11. Redo Teak on exterior
12. touch up work on exterior, clean, polish, wax.
13. Add deeper lip to existing shelves and add dividers.
14. relocate marine radio, install stereo with speakers
15. install foot pump for sink, new sink features
16. Replace forward hatch, add solar/dc powered fan

I will document all this from a before, during and after process. would love any comments for any of these projects
User avatar
DanaVin
Posts: 122
Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 22:32
Location: Cape Dory 25, "Gladys Erzella", San Diego Bay--1977, Hull #541
Contact:

Been there, Wrecked that!

Post by DanaVin »

Hi,
I've done a lot of the things you write about. My photo site (http://svGladysErzella.photosite.com) shows the various projects.
If you need additional info on anything in particular, don't hesitate to drop me a line. Believe me, I've learned the hard way on many projects so I now know a lot more than I did when I started the restoration. GE is temporarily home now so any measurements for the dodger, etc, I can obtain fairly easily. I could not find a replacement hand pump for the sink water so installed a new Jabsco water pump. Works great!~ I'm also designing a new holding box and will make it from fiberglass (that's the current idea.) This will slip under and up over the o/b when she's at the slip. A pump will take the sea water out so no corrosion will take place. There's no way I can remove the Honda 5hp while under way. And I don't want to go any smaller than that.
Also, am restoring PO's boom tent. This is a great add-on!
When the FCC eliminates the Morse code for ham licenses in 1Q, 2006, I plan on obtaining one to add to the SSB Marine License GE and I have now. The Icom 718 with ant. tuner and insulated backstay was a difficult little project but it works great.
The CDI Furling unit works great, as well. Took a little bit to install but at least it's done.
Thanks
DanaVin
1977 CD25 #541
Gladys Erzella
San Diego Bay
John D.

Don't install them too tight . . .

Post by John D. »

. . . and seal all four sides before installing.

My boat has ceiling strips, which must have been kiln dried upon installation, because in humid weather, they expand to a size greater than the available space. In other words, a few of them popped their screws.
Arenius

Ash Ceiling

Post by Arenius »

The early CD26 did not come with ash ceilings so I added ash battens below the quarter berth shelves, teak battens above the quarter berth shelves and ash battens in the forward vee berth. Because of the curvature of the hull I would suggest vertical stringers made of wood strips covered by epoxied fiberglass strips into a N channel. The wood strips should be back slot cut to allow it to follow the hull contour and poly sulfated between the wood and hull surface to aviod external "hard spots" in the hull. This will give you a solid platform for screw attachment of the ash battens with strength to allow bend and twist of the battens. The whole thing also becomes removeable should you require hull repair in the future. Have not had a problem with the installation in 20 years.
Pictures of my own work is http://mysite.verizon.net/darenius/CD26/CD26.html

Best of Luck in your projects...Dana
darenius@verizon.net
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