CD 30 Inspection
Moderator: Jim Walsh
-
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Sep 1st, '05, 22:48
- Location: Cape Dory 30
CD 30 Inspection
What are common problems to look for on initial inspection of CD30 I am thinking of buying?. If these are detected whats involved with fixing?
-
- Posts: 4367
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 17:25
- Location: s/v LIQUIDITY, CD28. We sail from Marina Bay on Boston Harbor. Try us on channel 9.
- Contact:
Re: CD 30 Inspection
Deck delamination, areas of wet core and spider cracks in general are fairly common on CD's. None of these are fatal and the cost of repairing any serious defect can be adjusted for in the purchase price. Make sure you get a professional survey if you're serious about buying the boat.roryhammond wrote:What are common problems to look for on initial inspection of CD30 I am thinking of buying?. If these are detected whats involved with fixing?
Fair winds, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167
Boston, MA
CDSOA member #698
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167
Boston, MA
CDSOA member #698
-
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Sep 1st, '05, 22:48
- Location: Cape Dory 30
Chain Plate Inspection
How are chain plates properly inspected if they are sealed in deck??
-
- Posts: 4367
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 17:25
- Location: s/v LIQUIDITY, CD28. We sail from Marina Bay on Boston Harbor. Try us on channel 9.
- Contact:
Re: Chain Plate Inspection
They're not sealed in the deck... they go through the deck and are glassed to the hull. They are behind the liner in the cabin and can be inspected there. I'm not familiar with access on the CD 30, but more than one person on this site is. You'll get an answer once they are back from sailing.roryhammond wrote:How are chain plates properly inspected if they are sealed in deck??
Fair winds, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167
Boston, MA
CDSOA member #698
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167
Boston, MA
CDSOA member #698
- neil
- Posts: 168
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 10:19
- Location: Splendid,
Cape Dory 25, hull # 253
Key West, The Conch Republic. - Contact:
If they are like the 25 they are bolted through backing plates made of crap steel which is glassed in under the deck.
On my boat, a 1975 CD25 the backing plates were pure rust.
They are now 1.5 inch thick slabs of Ipe, an extreamly hard and waterproof wood with each bolt having a gigantic washer behind the backing plate.
This is something to check out, the only thing holding up my mast was the fact that Cape Dory dident screw around while laying up fiberglass.
Cheers,
Neil
On my boat, a 1975 CD25 the backing plates were pure rust.
They are now 1.5 inch thick slabs of Ipe, an extreamly hard and waterproof wood with each bolt having a gigantic washer behind the backing plate.
This is something to check out, the only thing holding up my mast was the fact that Cape Dory dident screw around while laying up fiberglass.
Cheers,
Neil
}=-(-_-)-={
-
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Sep 1st, '05, 22:48
- Location: Cape Dory 30
Backing Plates for Chain Plates CD30
I have been using the wrong terminology. My big question is regarding the backing plates that are inside the boat. Lots of people determine them to be rusted, which apparently can be dealt with. First can get you get to them, do you have to remove or cut away the headliner or shelving to see these mild steel backing plates, and then what is replacement process, replace with SS or bronze. By the way does Robinhood Marine center have specific reccommendations and staff that would respond with advice on this and other problems and solutions?
Rusted chain plates
Dear Rory,
go back a few months and you will see quite a bit on this topic. much of it from me.
I bought a CD 30 nearly two years ago, the surveyor found the rusted shroud plates and after I received a quote for their replacement I decided to go ahead to purchase the vessel. I now regret that decision. As the rust should have warned me of the likelihood of other none specific faults in the design of CD's
I had the Chain shroud plates replaced by so called proffesionals.
If you already own the vessel, you should be able to see the plates ( a mirror and light will help) situated above the overhang of the head liner in the head (toilet) (rest room) and on the opposite side at the rear of the locker.
replacement will almost certainly require the destruction of whatever cabinet work there may be in the way.
I strongly advise you to inspect the other plates, in the bow inside the chain locker, and the aft end, just inside and above the hatch area and right at the stern for the back stay.
The question you also should be asking is why have they gone rusty?
The answer may well be because the hull deck joint is leaking.
for more on this topic look back just a week or two on the board.
I was lucky with the bow plate but I have had made a replacement backstay chain plate. which I shall fit when I have more time in the summer.
All the replacement chain plates I have had made are of half inch stainless steel. the aft one made in such a way that it will have a polished SS plate on the outside which will be bolted through.
thats to be certain any load from the stay is in fact taken to hull and not just the deck.
Because I had to rebuild the lockers in the head I have taken the opportunity to install a 20 litres waste holding tank on the forward bulkhead and built the new cabinets in to one side, hiding the tank.
Oh one last point, it would also be wise to check for any rot in the bulkhead as water leaking from the hull deck joint and or any deck fittings will cause the plywood to deteriate, particularly close to the hull liner at the forward end of the port settee possibly hidden from easy view beneath or behind the bookcase or locker, depending on what you have in your particular vessel.
If you have any specific questions or if you would like to share what you find please feel free to contact me: captaintonyb@hotmail.com.
Tony
go back a few months and you will see quite a bit on this topic. much of it from me.
I bought a CD 30 nearly two years ago, the surveyor found the rusted shroud plates and after I received a quote for their replacement I decided to go ahead to purchase the vessel. I now regret that decision. As the rust should have warned me of the likelihood of other none specific faults in the design of CD's
I had the Chain shroud plates replaced by so called proffesionals.
If you already own the vessel, you should be able to see the plates ( a mirror and light will help) situated above the overhang of the head liner in the head (toilet) (rest room) and on the opposite side at the rear of the locker.
replacement will almost certainly require the destruction of whatever cabinet work there may be in the way.
I strongly advise you to inspect the other plates, in the bow inside the chain locker, and the aft end, just inside and above the hatch area and right at the stern for the back stay.
The question you also should be asking is why have they gone rusty?
The answer may well be because the hull deck joint is leaking.
for more on this topic look back just a week or two on the board.
I was lucky with the bow plate but I have had made a replacement backstay chain plate. which I shall fit when I have more time in the summer.
All the replacement chain plates I have had made are of half inch stainless steel. the aft one made in such a way that it will have a polished SS plate on the outside which will be bolted through.
thats to be certain any load from the stay is in fact taken to hull and not just the deck.
Because I had to rebuild the lockers in the head I have taken the opportunity to install a 20 litres waste holding tank on the forward bulkhead and built the new cabinets in to one side, hiding the tank.
Oh one last point, it would also be wise to check for any rot in the bulkhead as water leaking from the hull deck joint and or any deck fittings will cause the plywood to deteriate, particularly close to the hull liner at the forward end of the port settee possibly hidden from easy view beneath or behind the bookcase or locker, depending on what you have in your particular vessel.
If you have any specific questions or if you would like to share what you find please feel free to contact me: captaintonyb@hotmail.com.
Tony
not all doom and gloom
I purchased an 1984, CD-30 late last fall after having it surveyed. The survey went very well and I learned a tremendous amount about by being there and asking tons of questions while looking around with the surveyer. The chain plates all looked very good. The backing plate in the bow of my boat appears to be aluminium instead of steel and in general there were no major problems. The main recomendations were the replacement of 20+ year old hoses. Do check the deck carefully for wet core areas. I rebedded chain plates, deck fills and stantion bases last winter and it stopped the one leak I had in the galley locker and gives me great peace of mind about water entering the core. Every boat is an individual so look carefully to know what you are getting into. We have been having a great time with the boat. She is not the fastest thing on the water (boy did that big trimaran with the kevlar sails ever fly by us yesterday) but is very comfortable and trustworthy. The Cape Dorys look and feel like a cruising sailboat is supposed to. No regrets, Steve.
-
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Sep 1st, '05, 22:48
- Location: Cape Dory 30
Backing Plate Chain Plate Repair/ Hull Deck Joint
After all I have heard about the design problems of the CD30 in key areas such as chain plate back up and hull deck joints I am a little worried about further consideration of this boat. Are both of these inherent in only older boats or also on the 1983 and all others. Do all these posters accept these design flaws fix them properly and then enjoy the boats.
Do you think I should have a surveyor look at the boat and then make the decision or pass on the Cape Dory line all together.
I have looked at a Pacific Seacraft 31 1988 thats 80K and a Cabo Rico 34 , 1990 thats 130K both much more expensive. I thought this 1983 CD 30 would be a much less expensive alternate but if it has design flaws perhaps I should pass and then spend or borrow and get a better quality boat somehow.
I want the hull design, Full Keel and heavy. It blows constantly in South Texas.
Thanks for your help.I am not saving money if I have headaches and structual problems
Do you think I should have a surveyor look at the boat and then make the decision or pass on the Cape Dory line all together.
I have looked at a Pacific Seacraft 31 1988 thats 80K and a Cabo Rico 34 , 1990 thats 130K both much more expensive. I thought this 1983 CD 30 would be a much less expensive alternate but if it has design flaws perhaps I should pass and then spend or borrow and get a better quality boat somehow.
I want the hull design, Full Keel and heavy. It blows constantly in South Texas.
Thanks for your help.I am not saving money if I have headaches and structual problems
Cape Dories are better than most.
Look,
Having owned several other makes of boat (Morgan and Irwin), I can assure you that whatever faults are found in CD's are much worse in other production yachts. If you buy a Pacific Seacraft, you are going to get a better CONSTRUCTED, but not better designed, boat. But the addidtional money you pay over a comparable CD is much greater than the value of the better construction details. But you must frequently and systematically inspect all systems in any boat, including Pacific Seacraft. Maintenance must be constant. Don't even consider a Hunter or Catalina unless you are only using it for daysailing on calm water. Talk about cheap construction!!!
Cape Dory chain plates are somewhat unique. If your mild steel backings are rusting that means you have leak somewhere. Some folks think is is the hull to deck joint. While that may be true in some cases, it is just as likely to be that the external bronze shroud base simply needs re-bedding. Don't reject this as the cause. No piece of backing plate anywhere on the boat should ever be replaced with aluminum. Use Stainless or even wood. aluminum is destroyed by stainless when in a salt water environment. Just look at the aluminum pedestal base of boats where owners replaced the aluminum bolts with SS.
Cape Dories are good, sound boats, which can be used for "blue water" sailing. Any "good old boat" is going to need attention to maintenance and that's why you hire a good (references) surveyor.
Good luck with whatever decision you make and good sailiing Even a Hunter is better than having no boat at all.
Will
Jambalaya
Cd30
Having owned several other makes of boat (Morgan and Irwin), I can assure you that whatever faults are found in CD's are much worse in other production yachts. If you buy a Pacific Seacraft, you are going to get a better CONSTRUCTED, but not better designed, boat. But the addidtional money you pay over a comparable CD is much greater than the value of the better construction details. But you must frequently and systematically inspect all systems in any boat, including Pacific Seacraft. Maintenance must be constant. Don't even consider a Hunter or Catalina unless you are only using it for daysailing on calm water. Talk about cheap construction!!!
Cape Dory chain plates are somewhat unique. If your mild steel backings are rusting that means you have leak somewhere. Some folks think is is the hull to deck joint. While that may be true in some cases, it is just as likely to be that the external bronze shroud base simply needs re-bedding. Don't reject this as the cause. No piece of backing plate anywhere on the boat should ever be replaced with aluminum. Use Stainless or even wood. aluminum is destroyed by stainless when in a salt water environment. Just look at the aluminum pedestal base of boats where owners replaced the aluminum bolts with SS.
Cape Dories are good, sound boats, which can be used for "blue water" sailing. Any "good old boat" is going to need attention to maintenance and that's why you hire a good (references) surveyor.
Good luck with whatever decision you make and good sailiing Even a Hunter is better than having no boat at all.
Will
Jambalaya
Cd30
Will Parker
CD30
Besides the already mentioned areas to inspect give the cockpit sole a close look.Many CD's have water penetration to the balsa core in this location,(including mine-since repaired).Check any apertures in the sole as they typically were not sealed.
Are the chain plates structurally unsound or just rusty? if they still have integrity that is an easy enough fix.
Good luck-RM
________
California Dispensaries
Are the chain plates structurally unsound or just rusty? if they still have integrity that is an easy enough fix.
Good luck-RM
________
California Dispensaries
Last edited by Ron M. on Feb 11th, '11, 05:09, edited 1 time in total.
-
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Sep 1st, '05, 22:48
- Location: Cape Dory 30
CD30 Inspection
For those interested, one of the most regarded surveyors on the Texas gulf coast is Mike Firestone Port Aransas TX. Thanks for posting the information about back up plates and other problems to look for, I will pass on to him before he conducts survey on CD30 for me. I will post survey results of same.
-
- Posts: 4367
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 17:25
- Location: s/v LIQUIDITY, CD28. We sail from Marina Bay on Boston Harbor. Try us on channel 9.
- Contact:
Re: Rusted chain plates
For as long as I've owned my boat and for as long as I've been reading and posting on this board, you're the first owner to have expressed regret at having bought a Cape Dory.Tony Batchelor wrote:I bought a CD 30 nearly two years ago, the surveyor found the rusted shroud plates and after I received a quote for their replacement I decided to go ahead to purchase the vessel. I now regret that decision.
The rusty chainplate question comes up now and then. Most of us have experienced leaks of one sort or another. Most of us have or have had delamination and soft spots in the deck. But somehow we love our boats without regret.
Fair winds, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167
Boston, MA
CDSOA member #698
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167
Boston, MA
CDSOA member #698