deck/hull leak
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Harry Green
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Aug 6th, '05, 08:26
- Location: CD25D, Solitude, Wicomico River
deck/hull leak
We're actively pursuing the purchase of a Cape Dory 25D. We owned a Cape Dory 28 Cutter (1978) that leaked a great deal between the deck and hull. Did the boat we own have an unusual problem or is this a typical problem with Cape Dorys in general?
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fenixrises
- Posts: 450
- Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 08:01
- Location: SunShine S2 11c
- Contact:
Hi Harry,
I have a '78 CD 28 that had extensive leaks along the hull-deck joint, especially amidships. The problem is caused by the angle between the upper surface of the hull flange and the underside of the deck. They do not match very well between the main bulkhead and the cockpit bulkhead. There was a gap of nearly 3/4" for about eight feet on each side. Much of the gap was not filled with anything. The deck only fit tightly against the outer edge of the hull flange.
On my 28 the genoa track was through bolted in this area. In time each of the bolt holes became like a small faucet.
I fixed the problem but it was a very big job making the repair to my satisfaction.
Rebedding the toe-rail and rub-rail will not really fix this problem.
One person e-mailed me asking if I thought it would be possible to make the repair with less work. I suggested filling the joint from the inside with 3M 5200. Still this is not an easy fix. The down-turning flange on the overhead liner makes it difficult to reach the area. Removing the upper ceiling planks helps access a bit.
I do not know if other Cape Dorys have similar problems with hull deck leaks.
Take care,
Fred B
I have a '78 CD 28 that had extensive leaks along the hull-deck joint, especially amidships. The problem is caused by the angle between the upper surface of the hull flange and the underside of the deck. They do not match very well between the main bulkhead and the cockpit bulkhead. There was a gap of nearly 3/4" for about eight feet on each side. Much of the gap was not filled with anything. The deck only fit tightly against the outer edge of the hull flange.
On my 28 the genoa track was through bolted in this area. In time each of the bolt holes became like a small faucet.
I fixed the problem but it was a very big job making the repair to my satisfaction.
Rebedding the toe-rail and rub-rail will not really fix this problem.
One person e-mailed me asking if I thought it would be possible to make the repair with less work. I suggested filling the joint from the inside with 3M 5200. Still this is not an easy fix. The down-turning flange on the overhead liner makes it difficult to reach the area. Removing the upper ceiling planks helps access a bit.
I do not know if other Cape Dorys have similar problems with hull deck leaks.
Take care,
Fred B
You should always have an odd number of holes in your boat!
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Carter Brey
- Posts: 709
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 12:02
- Location: 1982 Sabre 28 Mk II #532 "Delphine"
City Island, New York - Contact:
deck/hull leak
I believe that, despite the generally high quality of construction of our boats, Cape Dory left a bit to chance when it came to the hull-deck joint; in addition to a polyester compound, a secure bond is provided in an incidental way by the thru-b olting of hardware such as pulpits and the fasteners for the toe rails. What's lacking, however, are dedicated mechanical fastenings on regularly spaced centers. I'm just spectulating that this is perhaps a potential weakness that can lead to what you're describing.
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RMcmanus
Deck Meets Hull on CD 28
Aha. During the ongoing refit of Cocos, we replaced and beefed up the standing rigging. There was a gap between the Deck holes and the metal flange of about 3/4 of an inch. We laboriously filled the space throught the holes with the "West" system; filling and drilling, drilling and filling until the bolts ran true and came out the bottom of the flange straight.
On the long term list I had planned to remove the toe and rub rails and check the problem out from the outside and to address it from the inside as well.
In replacing the plastic ports with new bronze ports, I discovered simple plywood spacers between the coach roof and the liner. Any water getting in the deteriorating ports would simply flow down the liner and do what water does flowing over the furniture, etc. This again was a fiberglass, drill, refit, fiberglass, drill, etc. exercise. Would not want to do it again, but the new ports are great.
Experience from others about the deck/hull joint would be appreciated. Refiberglassing the joint will be a big job, but may be necessary.
After some varnishing of the toe and rub rails, new electric bilge pumps, cockpit sole hatch and replacing the stuffing box, I am bound and determined to go sailing for a few months before starting in again.
Roger
On the long term list I had planned to remove the toe and rub rails and check the problem out from the outside and to address it from the inside as well.
In replacing the plastic ports with new bronze ports, I discovered simple plywood spacers between the coach roof and the liner. Any water getting in the deteriorating ports would simply flow down the liner and do what water does flowing over the furniture, etc. This again was a fiberglass, drill, refit, fiberglass, drill, etc. exercise. Would not want to do it again, but the new ports are great.
Experience from others about the deck/hull joint would be appreciated. Refiberglassing the joint will be a big job, but may be necessary.
After some varnishing of the toe and rub rails, new electric bilge pumps, cockpit sole hatch and replacing the stuffing box, I am bound and determined to go sailing for a few months before starting in again.
Roger
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Guest
leaks
Hi All:
With any boat of this age topside leaks are something to be expected. Fixing them, while a pain, is usually not expensive. My leaks at the toe and rub rails were due to water intrusion at the screws used to hold on both of those pieces. It was limited to just one side of the boat and I suspect the boat took some punishment at that location. The fix consisted of removing the teak piece and rebedding it with 101. Make sure to squirt caulk into the screw hole before placing the screw so it is completly bedded in caulk. I then caulk the top of the screw before placing the bung. So far the leaks are cured.
As of now I have had no problems with the hull/deck joint itself. Just the other stuff that got screwed to the boat to make her pretty. Its amazing how much water can come in past a #10 sheet metal screw.
Currently I am replacing the leaking side Lexan windows. I had the entire boat open for last Saturday's thunderstom. What fun that was, running around in the rain with rags and buckets.
Boyd
s/v Tern
CD30 MKII
Fort Lauderdale, Fla.
With any boat of this age topside leaks are something to be expected. Fixing them, while a pain, is usually not expensive. My leaks at the toe and rub rails were due to water intrusion at the screws used to hold on both of those pieces. It was limited to just one side of the boat and I suspect the boat took some punishment at that location. The fix consisted of removing the teak piece and rebedding it with 101. Make sure to squirt caulk into the screw hole before placing the screw so it is completly bedded in caulk. I then caulk the top of the screw before placing the bung. So far the leaks are cured.
As of now I have had no problems with the hull/deck joint itself. Just the other stuff that got screwed to the boat to make her pretty. Its amazing how much water can come in past a #10 sheet metal screw.
Currently I am replacing the leaking side Lexan windows. I had the entire boat open for last Saturday's thunderstom. What fun that was, running around in the rain with rags and buckets.
Boyd
s/v Tern
CD30 MKII
Fort Lauderdale, Fla.