I've just bought a CD30 with all the teak in excellent condition. To protect the rub rail I am considering adding stainless strips like those found at West Marine. Please help with two questions: (1) what areas of the rail should be protected (please don't respond with "whatever area you plan to hit")eg. 5 feet from both bow and stern. (2) What sources for the rail are there besides West Marine? Thanks.
dmetznic@ix.netcom.com
Protecting rub rails
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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D. Stump, Hanalei
Re: Protecting rub rails
Don,
Cape Dory originally provided bronze half round strips that screwed to the toe rail/guard to do just what you are thinking, as an option. I believe it is 3/4 inch across the "flat" of the half round. The strips ran from bow to stern and across the stern (the stern piece was bent to follow the curve of the deck. It was held in place with bronze screws about every 3 feet or so, and was very effective in preventing that terrible piling rub that we all hate. I believe you could purchase it at any good chandlery, here in Connecticut I would get it from Wilcox Marine Supply in Mystic. It probably is not something that can go through the mail, its in 10 to 12 foot sections. Of course, the bronze will turn green, but that goes along with the portlites that are green anyway. If you ever did really need to polish them, "On & Off" works well to remove the green, but it will return in a short time. I don't think I would use stainless steel strips on a classic like a Cape Dory, somehow SS doesn't seem right, IMHO. Hope this helps...
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30
Cape Dory originally provided bronze half round strips that screwed to the toe rail/guard to do just what you are thinking, as an option. I believe it is 3/4 inch across the "flat" of the half round. The strips ran from bow to stern and across the stern (the stern piece was bent to follow the curve of the deck. It was held in place with bronze screws about every 3 feet or so, and was very effective in preventing that terrible piling rub that we all hate. I believe you could purchase it at any good chandlery, here in Connecticut I would get it from Wilcox Marine Supply in Mystic. It probably is not something that can go through the mail, its in 10 to 12 foot sections. Of course, the bronze will turn green, but that goes along with the portlites that are green anyway. If you ever did really need to polish them, "On & Off" works well to remove the green, but it will return in a short time. I don't think I would use stainless steel strips on a classic like a Cape Dory, somehow SS doesn't seem right, IMHO. Hope this helps...
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30
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bob ohler
Re: Protecting rub rails
If you decide to add the rails,I would recommend using the solid type bronze rails, instead of the hollow ones that you'll see offerred in the catalogs.
You mentioned that the teak was in very good condition. Is it varnish or Sikkens Cetol? You may be surprised... You may not need to incur the expense or labor of installing the rails. If it is Sikkens, you'll be applying a maintenance coat midway through the season anyway, if not sooner. Also, with a little practice, you may not be rubbing the rails as much as you think. I considered making this addition to my boat, decided to save the money, and put the savings towards a new sail! The new #2 genoa is a nice addition!
Bob Ohler
bobohler@chesapeake.net
You mentioned that the teak was in very good condition. Is it varnish or Sikkens Cetol? You may be surprised... You may not need to incur the expense or labor of installing the rails. If it is Sikkens, you'll be applying a maintenance coat midway through the season anyway, if not sooner. Also, with a little practice, you may not be rubbing the rails as much as you think. I considered making this addition to my boat, decided to save the money, and put the savings towards a new sail! The new #2 genoa is a nice addition!
Bob Ohler
bobohler@chesapeake.net
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Ed Haley
Re: Protecting rub rails
After all the work done to achieve nice-looking teak rails on my classic Cape Dory, I would hate to do anything that would detract from the aesthetics. I, too, have had the irritating rasping effect of a piling on my CD-28's toerail but I took it out on the piling. I wrapped carpeting around the piling so that if I was blown into it I would not hear that telltale grinding. I do a lot of solo sailing and coming into the slip during a breeze can be difficult.
eghaley@dreamscape.com
eghaley@dreamscape.com
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matt cawthorne
Re: Protecting rub rails
Don,
I didn't realize that CDs came without the bronze rails. Another source of them is Jamestown distributors, in Jamestown R.I. or Beaufort SC Their prices are excellent. Their number is 1-800-423-0030. Give them a call and they will send a catalogue. You can get the bronze oval head screws that work nicely with the bronze strips. I recommend installing the screws at 18 inch spacing. After 17 years my boat has aparently hit a few pilings because a few of the screws are gone and the holes are stripped. If you space the screws too far apart some day one will get damaged and the remaining ones will be way too far apart and easily torn loose. Put the rails end to end because if you catch the end of one the resulting forces could tear it off. Use a file and round the ends over and countersink the screws so that they do not catch.
Good Luck,
Matt
mcawthor@bellatlantic.net
I didn't realize that CDs came without the bronze rails. Another source of them is Jamestown distributors, in Jamestown R.I. or Beaufort SC Their prices are excellent. Their number is 1-800-423-0030. Give them a call and they will send a catalogue. You can get the bronze oval head screws that work nicely with the bronze strips. I recommend installing the screws at 18 inch spacing. After 17 years my boat has aparently hit a few pilings because a few of the screws are gone and the holes are stripped. If you space the screws too far apart some day one will get damaged and the remaining ones will be way too far apart and easily torn loose. Put the rails end to end because if you catch the end of one the resulting forces could tear it off. Use a file and round the ends over and countersink the screws so that they do not catch.
Good Luck,
Matt
Don Metznik wrote: I've just bought a CD30 with all the teak in excellent condition. To protect the rub rail I am considering adding stainless strips like those found at West Marine. Please help with two questions: (1) what areas of the rail should be protected (please don't respond with "whatever area you plan to hit")eg. 5 feet from both bow and stern. (2) What sources for the rail are there besides West Marine? Thanks.
mcawthor@bellatlantic.net
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john churchill
Re: Protecting rub rails
i got my stainless rails from defender, $79.95 for 12' of 3/4' solid back(1-800-628-8225). i got the predrilled ones (stainless is hard stuff) and had them cut a 12' in half to ship UPS. i put one half on each side at the point of widest beam with red tape on the life lines to show at a glance the approved collision areas. when you put them on-do not be stupid like i was and position a screw hole over those little round circles in the rail. it is really, really hard to drill a hole there.Don Metznik wrote: I've just bought a CD30 with all the teak in excellent condition. To protect the rub rail I am considering adding stainless strips like those found at West Marine. Please help with two questions: (1) what areas of the rail should be protected (please don't respond with "whatever area you plan to hit")eg. 5 feet from both bow and stern. (2) What sources for the rail are there besides West Marine? Thanks.