I have looked in the archives but I haven't found any pictures of a good working setup for running the main halyard back to the cockpit on a CD 28 without the need to unstep the mast. What equipment do I need to make the 45 degree or so turn at/near the base of the mast? I plan on using the existing winch on the starboard cabin top. Also, how do I run a new halyard through without climbing - is there an easy way to attach a new line that will run securely up the mast and through the top fittings?
Much thanks!
running lines aft CD 28 - what hardware do I need?
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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John D.
Halyards to cockpit
I attached blocks to the boom vang bail to turn the lines horizontal (to avoid unstepping the mast), then a four-sheave organizer to turn the lines aft, then spinlock rope clutches.
Running new halyards is easy. There is not enough room in the masthead sheave of my CD-27 for a full splice to pass through. I had a "reeving splice" put in my new halyard, which is just a spliced loop using only the outer braid (the inner core is cut out). It is strong enough for its temporary role, but much smaller diameter than the halyard. Then I separated the outer braid and core of the old halyard, cut off 12 inches of the outer braid, and about half of the strands on the inner core. I then looped that reduced core through the eye on the new halyard (forming two interlocked loops) and crudely spliced the old core back on itself. I covered the whole thing with duct tape to avoid snags, and pulled it through. Be sure to use the shackle end of the old halyard for the splice, so that the new shackle is on the correct side of the mast.
My new halyard
Running new halyards is easy. There is not enough room in the masthead sheave of my CD-27 for a full splice to pass through. I had a "reeving splice" put in my new halyard, which is just a spliced loop using only the outer braid (the inner core is cut out). It is strong enough for its temporary role, but much smaller diameter than the halyard. Then I separated the outer braid and core of the old halyard, cut off 12 inches of the outer braid, and about half of the strands on the inner core. I then looped that reduced core through the eye on the new halyard (forming two interlocked loops) and crudely spliced the old core back on itself. I covered the whole thing with duct tape to avoid snags, and pulled it through. Be sure to use the shackle end of the old halyard for the splice, so that the new shackle is on the correct side of the mast.
My new halyard
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Steve Laume
- Posts: 4127
- Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 20:40
- Location: Raven1984 Cape Dory 30C Hull #309Noank, CT
- Contact:
Halyards
You could cut off the eye splice of your old halyard, sew the tail of your new halyard to the cut end and pull it through. If you want to keep the eye on the old halyard, then sew a light line to the tail of your old halyard pull that through cut off the old and attach the tail of the new halyard then pull it back again. As tempting as it is to use a tape only splice it is very risky. It may fail you at the mast head and then you are climbing and fussing with trying to make things right. I went to our local sail maker and asked him to put together a repair kit. He assembled a nice assortment of cloth webbing and sticky patch material along with a spool of thread. The needles I picked up at the marine store. For this job though any strong thread would work. I have a spool of old dacron braided fishing line that I use for all sorts of things. May all your sheeves run smooth, Steve.
Lines to cockpit
I was mostly intersted in being able to reef from the cockpit but while I was at it I ran the jib halyard as well. I'll have 5 lines on the cabin top (and the jib downhaul at the rail). The vang line just comes back over the hatch. I used a halyard organizer
http://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1 ... zer+Plates
a plate that installs under the mast. You don't want to unstep the mast so you could use lift blocks
http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=29
You'll need a deck organizer to further turn the lines
http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=33
Those lines that share the winch need a rope clutch
http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=36
Good luck
http://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1 ... zer+Plates
a plate that installs under the mast. You don't want to unstep the mast so you could use lift blocks
http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=29
You'll need a deck organizer to further turn the lines
http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=33
Those lines that share the winch need a rope clutch
http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=36
Good luck
Sail on,
Jack
CD28 Sea Belle
Hailport - Rockland, ME
There are old sailors and bold sailors, but there are no old, bold sailors.
Reef early and often. It's easier to shake out a reef when one is bored than it is to tuck one in when one is scared.
When your only tool is a hammer, all your problems look like nails.
Jack
CD28 Sea Belle
Hailport - Rockland, ME
There are old sailors and bold sailors, but there are no old, bold sailors.
Reef early and often. It's easier to shake out a reef when one is bored than it is to tuck one in when one is scared.
When your only tool is a hammer, all your problems look like nails.
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RichMason
- Posts: 80
- Joined: Jun 14th, '05, 14:10
- Location: CD28 s/v Su Lan #228
Washington, NC (McCotter's Marina)
Thanks for the detailed instructions and links. Looking at the halyard lift blocks, it appears they screw into the mast. I would guess that ideally you would want a backing plate behind them with bolts inside the mast but since I don't want to unstep right now are screw sufficient? Also, I wonder about load on the rope clutches...is 1000 lbs sufficient for the main halyard? How much rope and what size should I use for the replacement main halyard if I need enough to run back to the cockpit? Does anyone run a downhaul for the main while they are at it?
Rich Mason
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Danno
Duct Tape in lieu of rigging tape?
Believe me I love duct tape but it has no place in your rigging. Be prepared for a sticky flaking mess as the duct tape breaks down due to the UV rays.
Dwyer Halyard Organizer width
Jack --
Did the Dwyer halyard organizer plate fit your mast step? I was thinking of installing one last winter, but the 4.4" width measurement for the flat base seemed just too narrow for the mast step casting on my CD 28. I'm thinking about mounting halyard lead blocks to the deck, but an organizer plate would be a lot easier to mount and rig.
-- Ken
Aurora, CD28 #368
Did the Dwyer halyard organizer plate fit your mast step? I was thinking of installing one last winter, but the 4.4" width measurement for the flat base seemed just too narrow for the mast step casting on my CD 28. I'm thinking about mounting halyard lead blocks to the deck, but an organizer plate would be a lot easier to mount and rig.
-- Ken
Aurora, CD28 #368
I'm bringing the lines back to the cockpit but haven't used them yet. I'm still on the hard with engine problems.
Rich,
I believe 1000# SWL is good for two reasons:
1) We put the load on when we crank the winch. The winch handle doesn't give me enough mechanical advantage that I can put that much load on. (OK the wind exerts a pressure but I've adjusted the halyard under the wind load as well)
2) Spinlock makes them in 990# and 1250# SWLs our little 28's are not pushing the limits.
The real issue with rope clutches as I understand it is the line diameter particularly on slippery high tech line. I'm using 3/8' StaSet-X and hope for the best (I should have called Garhauer and asked but I didn't). As i best recall, my new halyards are 12' longer than my old. I learned later that it's better to buy them several feet longer so you can cut some little bit off every couple of years. That way the wear points are moved and you needn't replace the whole halyard.
I have no experience with lift blocks but I understand they are mounted on the deck next to the mast. I didn't want all those extra holes in the deck. I'm just using fender washers to back the deck organizer and rope clutch.
Ken,
The halyard organizer was just a hair narrow so I ground a hair off the mast base port & starboard. It came with 3 holes none in the right place for this application so I drilled new ones. When drilling SS plate use a good bit, drill slow (400rpm) and use plenty of oil. Also the shackles on the Garhauer blocks I'm using were too beefy to fit through the holes but Wichard 1/4' shackles fit both the organizer and the blocks. Now I have the Garhauer shackles to use for ither purposes.
Rich,
I believe 1000# SWL is good for two reasons:
1) We put the load on when we crank the winch. The winch handle doesn't give me enough mechanical advantage that I can put that much load on. (OK the wind exerts a pressure but I've adjusted the halyard under the wind load as well)
2) Spinlock makes them in 990# and 1250# SWLs our little 28's are not pushing the limits.
The real issue with rope clutches as I understand it is the line diameter particularly on slippery high tech line. I'm using 3/8' StaSet-X and hope for the best (I should have called Garhauer and asked but I didn't). As i best recall, my new halyards are 12' longer than my old. I learned later that it's better to buy them several feet longer so you can cut some little bit off every couple of years. That way the wear points are moved and you needn't replace the whole halyard.
I have no experience with lift blocks but I understand they are mounted on the deck next to the mast. I didn't want all those extra holes in the deck. I'm just using fender washers to back the deck organizer and rope clutch.
Ken,
The halyard organizer was just a hair narrow so I ground a hair off the mast base port & starboard. It came with 3 holes none in the right place for this application so I drilled new ones. When drilling SS plate use a good bit, drill slow (400rpm) and use plenty of oil. Also the shackles on the Garhauer blocks I'm using were too beefy to fit through the holes but Wichard 1/4' shackles fit both the organizer and the blocks. Now I have the Garhauer shackles to use for ither purposes.
Sail on,
Jack
CD28 Sea Belle
Hailport - Rockland, ME
There are old sailors and bold sailors, but there are no old, bold sailors.
Reef early and often. It's easier to shake out a reef when one is bored than it is to tuck one in when one is scared.
When your only tool is a hammer, all your problems look like nails.
Jack
CD28 Sea Belle
Hailport - Rockland, ME
There are old sailors and bold sailors, but there are no old, bold sailors.
Reef early and often. It's easier to shake out a reef when one is bored than it is to tuck one in when one is scared.
When your only tool is a hammer, all your problems look like nails.