ignition key

[wayne grenier]

Has anyone had a problem bending or snapping the flimsy ignition key supplied with a standard marine ignition switch? it seems they don't make them like them like they used to -I have snapped 2 in the last 2 years-and every time I need to buy a new switch-I'd hate to break one in an emergency-they are so flimsy you can bend them and break them with finger pressure only-not good-last year I was ready to go for the weekend-boat loaded-weather good-etc. and I snapped the key off in the ignition-so I removed the switch-pulled the wires out of the front of the panel and sailed around with my ignition "hot wired"-its very simple-only 3 wires-but I doubt it looked very seamanly-anyway-I'm of to buy a 3rd switch and maybe to a locksmith to see if they can make a duplicate out of stronger material-would marine ignition keys be made out of aluminum rather than steel perhaps? I will look into perhaps another alternative-perhaps a 3 way switch without a key-who's going to steal a sailboat? and if they wanted to all they would have to do is break into the cabin-turn the batteries on and pull out the ignition switch and cross the wires like I did-a process that takes about a minute at best-I am much more concerned with breaking the key in the ignition than someone stealing my boat-I also suspect a screwdriver and a pair of vice grips would defeat the ignition switch in 2 seconds-see ya-

[fenixrises]

Hi Wayne,

One thing you could do is replace the ignition switch with a push button with a water resistant boot.

For a small mortgage on your house you can buy one from any supplier who carries Cole Hersey.


To do this just wire your engine panel through a panel breaker(20 map should do). Install the push button across the leads for the starter. This protects the engine wiring in addition to the supplied fuse or you can bypass the fuse completely with the breaker.

COLE HERSEE Weather Resistant Button Cap
Fits M-490, M-492, M-485 push button switches.  ...
Only $2.79 USD

[img]http://www.westmarine.com/images/thumb/03428_t.jpg[/img]

COLE HERSEE Switches - Push Button
Normally off, momentarily on when button is pressed. Single Pole, Single Throw (SPST) Heavy-duty, non-corrosive construction With moisture-repellent insulators Brass...
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[img]http://www.westmarine.com/images/thumb/242172_t.jpg[/img]

To start engine:
Turn on breaker
Push starter button
That's it.

Get wired
Fred B

[Parfait's Provider]

And I guess if you wire the ignition permanently "on" then there is little chance of zapping the alternator diodes or the regulator, but is it wise to leave it on all the while the battery is "on"? Might there be a time when you wish to turn it "off" but leave the house or starting battery "on"?

[Oswego John]

Hi all,

There is an old adage that's been floating around for a good many years and it goes like this. "Locks and keys are for honest people."

I see no good reason that you must have a lock. You could always leave the lock in place without wiring it and hopefully psychologically deter someone.

For the last several days there have been references alluding to the IGNITION system on a diesel engine. I'm struggling with that. Grin

But seriously, I could be wrong but my way of thinking is that if there is a lock and key, momentary contact starter push button, or a combination of both, it should only be in the circuit that controls the starter solenoid. It shouldn't have anything to do with the heavier circuit that connects the alternator output to the battery, with the exception of the voltage regulator. Most importantly, it should have no control in regard to alternator field excitation. We will avoid the pre-heaters at this time.

A keylock or a momentary contact N/O push button in a circuit to activate the starter solenoid should be a separate entity that shouldn't have any effect on frying the diodes. If you think the circuit through, when you release the momentary contact, normally open push button, the circuit becomes dead downstream from the PB

And then, again, a good lock with a strong key can give a person much peace of mind. Just make sure that it is on a floating key ring.

Hoping your holiday was a good one,
O J

[Parfait's Provider]

Yes, it isn't an ignition key, but in the standard wiring, it is more than a key to allow the solenoid to be activated.

Further, if there is no lock in the starting circuit, then you have a major safety concern in that anytime there are two people on the boat, the engine can be started, or at least turned over, while one is near the engine. If I am going to be near an engine, I want to know that the engine is not going to start inadvertently. I think a key lock in the starting solenoid circuit is mandatory. What does the ABYC say on this?

[Neil Gordon]

Further, if there is no lock in the starting circuit, then you have a major safety concern in that anytime there are two people on the boat, the engine can be started, or at least turned over, while one is near the engine. If I am going to be near an engine, I want to know that the engine is not going to start inadvertently. I think a key lock in the starting solenoid circuit is mandatory. What does the ABYC say on this?

Best practice is to shut the power source at the panel, not the device. In the case of the ignition switch, that's the battery selector switch. Turn the switch off yourself and securely tape a notice over the switch telling the reader to touch neither the switch or the notice.

[Oswego John]

Hi Ken and all,

That is an excellent safety point that you brought up in regard to having a keyed lock in the starter circuit. It is something that I didn't consider at all and I agree with you that there should probably have some sort of lockout device in the circuit.

There is another item that came to mind after the previous post that I had made. If so equipped, there has to be constant power supplied to the fuel pump.

All things considered, I think that maybe the solution for Wayne's problem is, as he previously suggested, have a stronger key cut from the original key.

In regard to ABYC rules, I don't know but maybe it is a requisite to have a lock controlling the starter circuit. It seems that manufacturers install them in their production boats. Extra $$$.

So I guess that I'll have to go to the next boat show and pick up a freebie floating key chain.

Best regards,
O J

[Mark Yashinsky]

With all these replies, my first question would be, what engine do you have in your boat and what is the engine panel like? Do you have a automotive like ignition switch, with 3 positions, or a two position switch and a separate starter button? I could almost kinda see if you are breaking keys if you have the first, but if you have the second, how hard is that to turn on and off??? Is the switch that hard to operate? Have you been bending the key and straightening it??? Does it need a squirt of WD40 or the like to lube the switch and make it easier to turn?

How many others have broken keys off?? I have never and leave the key in all the time. Another member of the club that has a CD32, broke the key off when the boat was trucked in from Florida and was put in the water at a nearby marina. We had to vacant the area ASAP, so a quick hot wire job (ah, the good old days) and we bugged. A new switch and not a problem since. FYI, the old key was slightly bend and could see the old cracking and the new break.

Conceivably, if you have the separate ignition switch and starter switch, you could change the ignition switch to a water proof toggle switch of sufficient amp rating. Need someway to fill the old large hole w/ the new, smaller switch. I leave the key in the switch all the time, but the main battery switch is off, and the boards are in place and locked, when I leave the boat.

[JSS]

On my 1977 CD27 the ignition key has broken many times, usually when an inexperienced guest has placed his foot on it.

I have solved the problem in two ways. First I remove the key after starting the engine and wear it around my wrist with a coiled plastic band until I need to shut the ignition off. Secondly, I discovered that the key which I had been faithfully duplicating had no real function other than to turn the mechanism and a flat bladed screw driver would work equally well. When I discovered that I asked my hardware store to sell me a bunch of key blanks, but not to cut the keys. The blanks work equally well and never break since they have not been weakened by cutting the key pattern into the blade. The blade has its full width for the entire length of the blade.

As far as I know the ignition panel to the 1 cylinder Yanmar is the original as installed by Cape Dory in 1977. I don't know if your ignition panel is similarly built, but it might be worth checking. Since I started using the key blanks I have not had a broken or bent key.

[tony batchelor]

within a few hours of owning my CD 30 I stood on the key and it broke off in the switch.

No spare key so I got a screw driver out and as key is still in the switch I simply turn the switch on or off and start the engine with the screw driver.

As for leaving the "ignition" on all the time as mentioned in one reply. That would be a serious error. Most if not all Alternators start to charge when a small current is passed through the field windings in the rotor ( the bit that spins inside). If the power is left on damage can occur to the alternator in a variety of ways including overheating, (if it is not spinning there is no cooling) as well as the ignition warning light, (if there is one) if it burns out the alternator may not start to charge when you want it.

As well as the batteries being run flat while you are not running the engine.

besides which if the ignition is "on" won't your oil pressure warning buzzer be going ?

[Neil Gordon]

I leave the key in the switch all the time, but the main battery switch is off, and the boards are in place and locked, when I leave the boat.

I prefer to store the key next to the raw water intake seacock. I open it when I take the key and close it when I replace the key.

The former owner encased the control panel, by the way, with a teak frame covered by hinged plexi. The panel and the key are safely covered without hiding the guages.

[Mark Yashinsky]

so will not go into here, other than I am anal about startup and shutdown procedures (even if others are doing it or are on another's boat), so I just leave the key in the ignition.

Story: while helping during this year's launching season at the yacht club, as soon as the boat goes in, I have my usual list of questions, like how's the bilge, battery switch on, dock lines ready, seawater seacock open, etc. I did not w/ one owner even after he did not have seawater coming out of the exhaust. Still in the straps, pulled him up to check the intake cover. Just could not figur it out. He finally motored over to his slip. Later, come to find out the the seacock was not open. This is someone who has had the boat for a good while and does a fair amount of distance cruising on her, so one would assume... Now, regadless of who, I ALWAYS ask.

Believe the Westerbeke panel has a plastic cover FIXED over the panel with holes for the glow, start and the ignition switch. No hinge even!!